Valve adjustment - Page 6 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #51 of 85 Old 01-06-2019, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toshbar View Post
My 2014 DL1000A has auto decompression linkages on both exhaust cams.
Good to know. I haven't worked on new gen. 1000 yet. Mine will be opened up this month.

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post #52 of 85 Old 01-06-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by VSrider View Post
Was wondering if anyone knows of a situation where the valves were left to get way out of spec and caused a problem. What would happen? Too tight, a burnt valve? Too loose, excessive noise? I wonder how conservative the manual specs are.
I can tell you. My buddy bought a high mileage(80K) DL650 cheap and it had a distinct knock. We checked the valves and the exhaust were way out of spec tight...something like 4 feeler gauges over. Put them all to the middle and the knock went away, bike runs fine. The odd part is everyone says that you can't hear tight valves, so that part I cannot explain.
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post #53 of 85 Old 01-06-2019, 08:40 AM
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BTW I found an outstanding tutorial for those that are intimidated by 'first time valve checks":

Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment
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post #54 of 85 Old 01-06-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
I can tell you. My buddy bought a high mileage(80K) DL650 cheap and it had a distinct knock. We checked the valves and the exhaust were way out of spec tight...something like 4 feeler gauges over. Put them all to the middle and the knock went away, bike runs fine. The odd part is everyone says that you can't hear tight valves, so that part I cannot explain.
4 gauges over to me means loose. You cant hear tight.

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post #55 of 85 Old 01-06-2019, 10:18 AM
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Sorry I meant under...they were tight.

'15 DL650XT
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post #56 of 85 Old 01-08-2019, 03:57 AM
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...
Also recommends (?requires?) that you drain and remove the radiator for access to the front head. Good opportunity to replace the coolant. I also took the opportunity to check the spark plugs. They are overdue for change based on mileage interval, but look like new. (There has been much debate about the recommended replace interval for those plugs.)

I removed the base mount for the rear of the tank and coolant reservoir bottle and was able to remove the rear valve cover without additional disassembly.

On the 650 you also can do this by swinging the radiator forward and tying it out of the way. A sheet of cardboard across the radiator will protect it.

The only tricky bit was making sure the gaskets seated properly around the spark plug wells.

Also FWIW, CHECKING the clearances is relatively easy, for the nervous do that and if they are out of spec. button it back up and have the dealer do the adjust. The gain there is most times they don't need adjusting.
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post #57 of 85 Old 01-08-2019, 12:17 PM
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So, what do I have after $375 or so spent? A clean bill of health . . . . is it worth it? Maybe not every dollar, but overall, I'd say yes. One of the big issues is putting the bike on the computer. That will tell a story too. But, get the service quoted for sure.
Peace of mind that it's been done and everything is well. Same reason I've always checked the valve clearances on my bikes at the recommended intervals. I haven't owned any long enough to establish a trend where I might be fairly confident that they've settled and I don't need to check them.
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post #58 of 85 Old 01-08-2019, 05:20 PM
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I stopped by my buddy's house last weekend that bought my Strom in early 2014. It was sitting in his garage on a tender and had not been ridden since last spring. I think it was me who lubed the chain last when I sold it to him. This bike had the valves checked twice and only adjusted slightly the first time. It has 105,000 miles on it (less than 6,000 miles since he got it). It started better than my much pampered and highly maintained Tenere. The tires had some air so I took it out for him and spanked it proper to blow the dust off it. She is running damn strong for her miles/age.

He doesn't know how to perform any maintenance and if he did he would not be interested. He is the kind of guy where machines go to die. I will let you know when it blows up.

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post #59 of 85 Old 01-08-2019, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
BTW I found an outstanding tutorial for those that are intimidated by 'first time valve checks":



Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment
Just note that this is for The 650
The 1000 procedure is slightly different if I understand correctly (at least the adjustment process is)

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post #60 of 85 Old 01-08-2019, 08:00 PM
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Garage
I went too long on my '80 Kawi when it was new (still have it). It got increasingly hard to start and would barf out of the #3 carb at idle/off idle and the idle was rough, lumpy like a 2cyl John Deere 30. At high revs it would act similar to hitting a rev limiter although it doesn't have one. I had done shims myself at the time and two successive times since then.
Fast forward 36 years to last month. I'm in the process of a tread-up remake of the bike and this is the first time I've ever had the head and cylinder block off. The cast in valve seats look surprisingly clean and the valve faces show no sign of burning. The reed-type oil breather for that #3 cyl was excessively oily, but that's the only thing I've noticed.
-Rule of thumb for DIY shim jobs, go for the upper allowable range when replacing shims, and specify virgin new shims rather than using shims removed from some other bike-some shops may do that: were those shims also from a previous shim job?
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