Valve adjustment - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #11 of 87 Old 08-11-2018, 10:25 PM
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My DL 1000 was barely tight on 1 exhaust valve at 30,000 miles, the first check I did. Shimmed it and left the others alone. It probably would have been fine without adjusting. At 50,000 miles, the same tight valve that was re-shimmed had opened up a little, about half the clearance I had shimmed it tighter at the first check (and why I think it could have been left alone the first time). I never checked it again and it is over 100,000 miles now and running fine.

I too have a quad. A Honda Rincon. On this machine, I checked it at 1,000 miles, past the factory 600 mile recommendation and it was in spec. At 5,000 miles I checked again (mostly because it is so easy, not the case on a DL engine) and the intakes were very slightly loose. It now has 12,000 miles (a lot for an ATV). Most quads use rocker arm valve trains and they tend to move more than the shim under bucket valves that most high rpm bikes use.

A modern shim under bucket valve train wears very little. I recommend a check around 30,000 miles and if they are anywhere in spec, put it back together and think about other issues like global warming or meteorites hitting your garage.

There are many tales of screwed up valve servicing on these bikes and none I am aware of that have burned a valve seat. Loose valves will tick if you have a good ear. Tight valves will be silent, but the bike will typically pop on deceleration and show signs of slow starts when hot.

If it means anything, I used to wrench in a multi-brand motorcycle shop in my youth. I changed careers to something less aggravating. I am an OCD nut about using synthetic lubricants and OEM parts. I obsess over my bikes, I sleep with a torque wrench under my pillow, but tend to leave the motors alone unless necessary. YMMV
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Last edited by STCorndog; 08-11-2018 at 10:27 PM.
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post #12 of 87 Old 08-17-2018, 12:24 AM
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I'm actually looking forward to my first valve check / adjustment here in a few k. I have 11k now, 3 months old (2018 ). The tapping at the top of the engine when warm at certain RPM ranges is making me insane, even though as near as I can figure, it's "normal" for the 1000 engine. I'll feel better once I get the valves checked and get a TB synch.

I certainly wouldn't avoid doing it!

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post #13 of 87 Old 08-17-2018, 12:29 AM
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I'm actually looking forward to my first valve check / adjustment here in a few k. I have 11k now, 3 months old (2018 ). The tapping at the top of the engine when warm at certain RPM ranges is making me insane, even though as near as I can figure, it's "normal" for the 1000 engine. I'll feel better once I get the valves checked and get a TB synch.

I certainly wouldn't avoid doing it!
Thought you had an Africa Twin?

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post #14 of 87 Old 08-17-2018, 12:41 AM
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Thought you had an Africa Twin?
Not any more. Traded my 2015 V Strom 650 for a 2017 AT in December 2017. Put 5k on it over a few months but didn't really like it. Missed the Strom platform but did like the added grunt of the AT's 1000 so I traded it in in May 2018 for a 2018 DL1000XT. Best of both worlds. Comfort, road manners, and familiarity of the Strom with the added oomph of the 1000 twin. Been wrecking the miles since then. Current bikes are the DL1000 and the trusty ol' WR250R...

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post #15 of 87 Old 09-11-2018, 11:12 PM
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I checked/adjusted my 2014 valves today for the first time at 23,000 miles.

One exhaust was out of spec (tight) by 0.01mm.
One intake was in the middle of spec.
Six were on the tight edge.
I adjusted 7 to the looser end.
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post #16 of 87 Old 01-02-2019, 11:14 PM
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My 2014 vee has about 16k mi on it and I feel they should be checked. I'm not sure I want to take on this project myself mainly because I don't want to be without the bike for long while I figure things out. Does anybody know what the approx cost would be for either a dealer or mechanic to complete the work?
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post #17 of 87 Old 01-03-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by steve85248 View Post
My 2014 vee has about 16k mi on it and I feel they should be checked. I'm not sure I want to take on this project myself mainly because I don't want to be without the bike for long while I figure things out. Does anybody know what the approx cost would be for either a dealer or mechanic to complete the work?

$600 seems to be the going rate from the threads I've read.

A shop manual is about $100 but you could probably do it without one, there's enough info out there. A few basic tools...

The hardest part is getting to the valves, taking the tank off and the various bits. The first time is the worst but it gets easier!

I work on my own bike thank you. Take my time and make sure it's done right.
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post #18 of 87 Old 01-03-2019, 11:42 AM
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I took mine to dealer for first valve check at 26k km's. 3 of the valves needed adjustment. They also rebuilt my leaking fork seals at the same time, then charged me $1800.
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post #19 of 87 Old 01-03-2019, 12:03 PM
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I took mine to dealer for first valve check at 26k km's. 3 of the valves needed adjustment. They also rebuilt my leaking fork seals at the same time, then charged me $1800.
Wow! I'm doing the exact same work, myself, on my Wee. My second time for valve work (this bike and previous Wee). Will be first time for fork seals. I was beating myself up over having spent ~$100 on torque wrenches.

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post #20 of 87 Old 01-03-2019, 01:12 PM
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If it truly is $600 it may be worth it to have it done. I already own the shop manual and torque wrench but may need a few more tools if I attempt it myself. Taking the fairing and tank off is pretty simple too.
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