I decided to try something: I put the bike up on pit stand and ran it in 1st gear. I noticed that clutch starts to grab when it's still very close to the bar (I have my lever set to 4), but not nearly enough to actually propel the bike forward. There's a very long area where clutch is partially engaged.. aka friction zone.
I removed the clutch switch and tried to run with switch closed (replicating lever fully squeezed) and with switch open. This is where it gets interesting.. with switch open (replicating clutch out), RPMs go UP immediately. With switch closed, as if the lever was squeezed, but lever actually being fully out.. the bike idles beautifully in gear, no extra RPM (anti stall assist)... no fluctuation. This is how I would prefer my bike to run.
So I unplugged the clutch switch and bypassed it by connecting the wires to each other and went for a ride.
Initially, it felt much better to me. I'd rather not have RPM go up as I start to ease out the clutch. There's also no need to squeeze the lever all the way to the bar to shift on this bike, as the real "catch" area is very far out from the bar, but if you do it this way, RPMs never drop! With clutch bypassed, they drop like they should.. no electronic magic.
So I was happy for a few minutes... until FI light went on and then the bike wouldn't idle properly. It would oscillate between 1k and 2k rpm non-stop.
Apparently, you can't simply bypass the switch
Anyone else experiment with this? Find any alternatives?