How to install a switch to disable and enable the ABS on command and on the fly.
Flip the switch, ABS turns off; Flip it again, ABS comes back on instantly. DO NOT flip the switch while the ABS pump is active OR when a tire is sliding - Your hands should be on the grips anyways! When the switch is closed, ABS works as normal. When the switch is open, the ABS light comes on and ABS does not function. Upon closing the switch again, ABS light goes out within 2 seconds and ABS is active.
This whole process took me 2.5 hours. All photos taken from the bike-left side and 'up' on all photos is towards the bike-right side.
Here's what you'll need:
14 gauge primary wire. 10 feet to be comfortable.
2x Male bullet connectors
2x Female bullet connectors
2x Spade female connectors
1x 20 amp rocker switch (yes, the ABS motor fuse is 25a, but a guy stuck a 15a fuse in there and tried to get it to blow with no luck)
Soldering iron + solder
Split loom - approx 5 feet
Tools to remove the tank shroud, gauge cluster, and upper fairing metal pieces: 4, 5 mm allen wrenches/drivers, medium/small flathead screwdriver
Dikes for cutting zip ties
Shrink wrap is pictured but I didn't use it.
Remove seat, remove fuse panel lid, remove the one for the ABS Motor. It's the only white 25a fuse here at top right. I'm not sure if there is a 'need' to remove the fuse, but we'll be cutting and splicing downstream, so I'd rather be safe.
Peel up the rubber mat that hides the ABS system. Tuck it under something so it isn't always flopping into your hands.
Undo the connector on the bike-right side of the ABS unit and pull it up. This is gonna require some intermediate spatial puzzle solving skills. You have to depress a detent and then flip the lever towards the front of the bike.
Take note here: Red wire and Red/Black wire. I consulted the factory service manual to find the ABS pump power supply wire, not the ABS valve power supply. We will be interrupting the PUMP power supply, which is the RED wire.
Cut that tape/bundle insulation and peel it back so we have room to work with the RED wire. Don't nick any interior wire insulation.....
Cut it! SOLID RED. Halfway between the main wiring loom and the plastic connector.
Comparison of my extension wire and the bike wire. Same size = good.
Strip all the ends of the wires.
Install one Male and one Female bullet connector to the original bike wires. If you ever need/want to remove the switch (or it fails???) all you have to do is plug these into each other and go back to not having a switch. BEFORE you crimp and solder the terminals on, slide the plastic insulators (blue here) onto the wires.
Slide the plastic insulators up on the terminals once they cool.
Install the terminals to your extension wire and plug the terminals of the extention wires into the factory wires. NOTE: the brown wires are two separate pieces, approximately 5.5 feet long each, enough to reach the gauge cluster up front. It's easier to cut extra off than add more.
Tape everything back up.
Encase both extension wires in the split loom. Zip ties every 8-10 inches should be plenty. Reconnect the harness connector to the ABS unit. This will require slightly more advanced spacial problem solving skills.
Route your loom-encased wires under the coolant reservoir bracket, and up to the ECU, located in the left fairing. I removed the metal top fairings and the top tank surround, which facilitates fishing the wires up from beneath the tank. Zip tie as necessary to keep the wires away from the forks.
Remove your gauge cluster, drill a hole in it (19mm = 3/4"), push your switch into the hole. Trim your extension wires and solder the female spade connectors to the wires. Slip them over your switch terminals and reinstall the gauge cluster. ABS switch is red, right switch is for my Skene light controller. The location of my switches is the best location I've found on the gauge cluster surround. Make sure to route your wires so they don't interfere with the ratcheting windshield brackets.
Reinstall fuse and seat. Go test it out.