ABS Off switch and Switched +12V
I know that there has been a number of threads about different ways to turn off the ABS when needed. Most of them seem to beading a switch in line with the 15 amp wire going to the ABS. However, I am not sure I really like that solution because:
1) The 12V, 15 amp connection to the ABS unit is for the four valve servos in the ABS. It does not actually shut the ABS down.
2) I am not sure I like bringing a 15 amp wire all the way up to the handlebars. This wire is about 14 gauge and that's a really heavy wire to wrap around the bike.
Looking at the ABS wiring schematic I can see that there are three +12V inputs to the ABS: the 25 amp input for the motor, the 15 amp input for the valves and the switched 12V that goes to everything including the ABS MCU. I could also see that there was a six pin connector in-between the fuse box and the ABS unit through which the 25 amp wire (red), the 15 amp wire (red/black), the switched 12V (white/yellow), two grounds (both black/white even though the schematic says one is black only) and the SDS Coupler wire (grey/red) pass. Looks like all I'd have to do is break the +12V white/yellow wire and the ABS would shut down.
I decided that I would use a normally closed relay as the actual voltage line switch for two reasons: 1) if anything when wrong like the handle bar switch breaking or the wires breaking, the ABS would continue to operate as normal; and 2) I could keep the relay close to the ABS and reduce the any IR loss that I would have compared to running the power all the way to the handlebars and back.
So, that being said, here's the installation (after taking off the seat and that sort of thing):
1) Remove the five bolts that hold on the right side tail frame cover. Also remove the lower snap-fastener. The six wire connector will be just below the top bar of the tail frame. (image 1)
2) Locate the white/yellow wire in the connector. It will be in the middle position between the red wires and the black wires. (Image 2)
3) There should be at least 2 to 3 cm of exposed wire visible between the cables bulk and the connector. Cut the white/yellow wire near the center.
4) Connect the white/yellow wire attached to the connector to pin 87a on the relay. Make sure to use about 15cm or longer, 18 gauge or larger hookup wire.
5) Connect the white/yellow wire on the cable bulk side to pin 30 of the relay. Pins 87a and 30 are the two sides of the normally closed switch in the relay.
6) Connect the wire from the handlebar (or dash) switch to either pin 30 of the relay or directly to the white/yellow wire coming out of the cable bulk.
7) Connect the other side of the handlebar (or dash) switch to pin 86 or the relay. This is the positive terminal of the electromagnet for the relay.
8) Connect Pin 85 of the relay to either one of the black wires in the connector, or to the negative battery terminal.
You will want to use at least 16 gauge hook-up wire of at least 15cm length to make sure that you have enough room to work and stow the relay. I put it on the the tail frame crowd brace behind the battery holder.
Once you have it all hooked up, everything is ready to go. When the handlebar switch it open (Off) there will be no power to the relay magnet so the connection through the relay that is normally closed (On) will be connected. If you turn the handlebar switch on, the relay magnet will be powered and the relay connection will be open (Off). When you turn the switch on the ABS yellow light come on and if you haven't turned off the Traction Control the yellow TC light will flash. Once you turn the switch off, the lights will go out in about 5 seconds and everything will work normally
And as an acted bonus, even if you don't want to add the ABS switch, did I mention that this is an easy location to get both a switched +12V and ground?