Chain life on V2 - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #11 of 100 Old 10-26-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Tom View Post
I would love to know how it works out for you... that is how long the chain lasts. From what I have understood (but not tried) the chain oilier should keep the chain well lubed and should help the chain to last a long time. In theory probably longer than what I do.

From what I have read, the specs on RichlandRick's Tutoro Chain oiler sound really good and if I wasn't so lazy I would probably try one out.

..Tom
i have had it for about 3.5k and it worked great!
although just about a 2 weeks ago i noticed that it stopped oiling even though it shows like it is (when i prime it it works ) i need to disconnect it from the battery for an hour but didn't have time to deal with it right now

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post #12 of 100 Old 10-26-2016, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
That Wurth lube aint cheap, would be over $30 shipped........it aint that good.
Ouch!

Last I looked it was under $20 Canadian $.

I have been told that the frequency of lube is the main key though so perhaps other products might give similar results.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
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post #13 of 100 Old 10-26-2016, 04:39 PM
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I have ordered a Cameleon oiler. Has had good reviews even against the Tutoro and Scottolier.
Should come any day so will post up pics and give a review soon as I can.
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post #14 of 100 Old 10-27-2016, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
That Wurth lube aint cheap, would be over $30 shipped........it aint that good.
Your price above shocked me so I called Wurth Canada. The price for a single can has gone up.. it it $19.71 per can if purchased by itself and if in a case of 12 it would be around $17 or $18. These are Canadian Prices in Canadian Dollars and should be quite a bit less in the USA. It isn't sold at retail stores but is sold direct by Wurth. Many Auto dealerships use it so it is possible your local dealership may have some.

We go through cases of it at our dealerships.

(I have no affiliation with Wurth and just think they make a great product.)

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
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post #15 of 100 Old 10-27-2016, 03:13 PM
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I recently bought a second hand Scott oiler and after 2,000 miles and about 3.5 ounces of ATF my chain is clean and lubricated. I'm happy enough that if another used auto oiler (any brand) pops upat a reasonable pirice i'll grab it and put it on one of the other chain driven bikes.
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post #16 of 100 Old 10-27-2016, 04:56 PM
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I barely get 20k out of good chains. They're not overtightened, they're lubricated every gas tank or more.

The problem is I ride dirt. Every chance I get. Dusty gravel, mud, the kind of stuff that sticks to wet lube and creates a grinding paste.

Dirt kills chains, and you must clean them. Can't just re-lube a chain caked in sticky muck. If you don't clean 'em, you'll just be recreating the grinding paste when you re-wet the grime and gunk that's caked in between the plates, that goes to the rollers, chain wears out. Even if you don't clean them, the trapped gunk creates corrosion and that'll take its toll too. Sprockets, too, they go fast when you're riding dirt.

I could stop riding so much dirt, but no chain life is worth that.
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post #17 of 100 Old 10-27-2016, 07:06 PM
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I just spoke to a long time rental dealer in Wisconsin visiting family and he said the grit must come off or the rentals oring chains won't go 10k miles. They use Bel-ray since dirt doesn't stick to it. The trails here are all gravel and dirt. He says he has tried everything over decades on dozens of bikes. I am using Dupont Chainsaver so am not promoting the product. My dealer in Missouri uses Bel-ray as well concidentally. I may try it.

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post #18 of 100 Old 10-27-2016, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SECoda View Post
I just spoke to a long time rental dealer in Wisconsin visiting family and he said the grit must come off or the rentals oring chains won't go 10k miles. They use Bel-ray since dirt doesn't stick to it. The trails here are all gravel and dirt. He says he has tried everything over decades on dozens of bikes. I am using Dupont Chainsaver so am not promoting the product. My dealer in Missouri uses Bel-ray as well concidentally. I may try it.
I've tried Belray, Teflon-products, wax-based lubes, even went for spells where I just didn't lubricate with anything. Dirt sticks to it all, if you get into enough dirt and the right kind. Dust, especially from clay roads & gravel, is insidious...it just coats your whole driveline.

I found that after riding dirt, I had to clean the chain prior to re-lube pretty much no matter what I did.

The hardcore dirt guys, GNCC racers and the like swear by WD-40 or really light lubes for that sort of thing. Dirt sticks to it, but it flings off, cleans and re-lubes (a little bit) about as well as anything else. I carry some when I ride dirt, and hose the chain down on my way home....tends to make the cleanup at home a lot easier.
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post #19 of 100 Old 10-28-2016, 08:30 AM
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It makes sense and I agree with the posts here including Vtom, Swingset and those who advocate for automatic oilers. I currently use Motorex off road lube, and am happy with the product. I lubricate the chain after the second tank fill ( more or less if I have a CRS moment). I clean my chain when the dirt accumulates with a cloth soaked in oil or degreaser.

That said, personally, I have a different approach. When the chain and sprockets tick off about 25,000 miles, I proactively have them replaced regardless. 25,000 miles takes me about two plus years into the parts, and for the $$, I am happy to ride the bike new again. For $200., I have peace of mind, a ride to rely on with no worries.
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post #20 of 100 Old 10-28-2016, 03:16 PM
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Chain Guard

IF I was regularly using my V2 in the dirt, I would certainly modify the chain guard. Namely, the inside needs to offer coverage for the chain from the dirt that gets piled on it from the rear tire.
The OEM chain guard is sort of a minimalist bikini item. In the past (on enduro bikes) I have used a length of rubber from the kick-space at the bottom of kitchen counters to keep the dirt and mud off in the first place. A few pop rivets and a heat gun. It also helps keep the countershaft sprocket area from packing up. All the info in the previous posts still apply.
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