Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Western Montana
Check the adjustment of the cable. Sometimes just a tiny adjustment can help.
Oil. Yes, I know. But even the best-rated most-expensive synoil doesn't solve this entirely (ask me how I know this).
Design. All Japanese-format cycles with engine-transmission units and wet multiplate clutches do this. I've had Hondas, Suzukis, Yamahas, one Kawasaki. EVERY ONE does this to a greater extent or another. The only one that did NOT was my BMW, with an automotive-style single-plate dry clutch. Want to know what a clutch costs to replace on one of those?
Here where I live, most lights at major intersections are ungodly long. I just get around this by, not using N but shutting the engine down. Hit the Kill switch, and fire the (warmed-up) engine as the light finally does start cycling.
Please spare me the "DANGEROUS!" flame-fests. I've made my decision on this. You're free to keep your engine idling, in gear, holding the clutch in for six minutes at long lights if that's your pleasure. I have Carpal-Tunnel and can't do that comfortably. Nor is sudden escape from an unfolding mess behind, likely. Few riders do, or can, remain at 100-percent alertness at all lights, all the time, every time.
But the jump and BANG!! when engaging, is one of those characteristics of this design. I'm sure it's not good; but there's not a spate of Japanese motorcycles in shops getting new gear clusters, either.