Heated Gear Connection to bike? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Heated Gear Connection to bike?

Ok so all the heated gear companies say to hook directly to your battery. Ive already got a battery tender, and my eastern beaver fuse block hooked up to my battery. I don't want more items stacked on the battery.

Even though the heated gear companies say to go directly to the battery, are you guys instead hooking up power through the fuse block? I have an eastern beaver 3 spot. I have only one spot used right now currently(gps). So id like to hook up the heated gear through the fuse block and not directly to the battery.

Pros/Cons?

The heated gear companies say they want it to the battery directly because they don't want to risk damaging the bikes wiring somehow.
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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so I guess the next question would be ....

if you're using the eastern beaver fuse block, what fuse size should you have in the main power wire going from battery to the relay? This is the fat orange wire with the inline fuse holder in it
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:21 PM
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i have a powerlet socket wired to one of the feeds of the Eastern beaver 3CS. I believe i have a 20amp fuse on that one, or maybe 15. Never any problems.
THe main feed to the battery for the 3CS requires 30 amp fuse.

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post #4 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrag View Post
THe main feed to the battery for the 3CS requires 30 amp fuse.
and by this, you mean the orange wire I spoke of? the wire that goes from battery to the relay?

Last edited by repsolracer22; 02-02-2016 at 12:45 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:25 PM
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It's fine to use a fuse block. Use the same size fuse in the fuse block that came with the heated gear. If for some reason you keep the inline fuse holder that comes with the heated gear, replace the fuse in it with a 30A so the fuse in the block is more likely to blow and you'll know where to check. If you have gear that doesn't include the battery connection lead with fuse, a 10A fuse in the block will work fine. It will be enough to support the load and won't be too big to protect the wiring.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:25 PM
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What is the total wattage of the gear you are going to be wearing.
Divide that by 12 and round up.
That is the number of amps it will use at max draw. Use a circuit from the fuse block and make sure it is fused accordingly. You should be good to go so long as the overall draw of everything going into the block does not exceed the max amp of the main fuse to said block.
I run all my acc through a relay nothing is on the stock wiring for that very reason, to avoid damage. The factory uses what ever is just enough to get the job done and nothing more. I would run a circuit to an SAE plug that you can then use as your port for power to heated clothing if it were me.

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post #7 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repsolracer22 View Post
nd by this, you mean the orange wire I spoke of? the wire that goes from battery to the relay?
Yes. EB should have provided you with fuses. They came with mine when i purchased a year ago. There should be one 30a, green, fuse. Obviously the highest amp fuse provided would go in that feed, since it's powering all three circuits in the relay.

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post #8 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:30 PM
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Mine is direct to the battery. I have a FUZEBLOCKS.COM that is to the battery but it's capacity is 10 amp and the controller is 15 amps so I have to go direct.

I also have a battery tender to the battery so that makes 3 direct connections - Battery tender, Fuzeblock and heat controller. I have not had an issue with anything and it works flawlessly. One thing I do is put some foam under the nut on the battery terminal so when I take the the bolt out the nut is at the top and much easier to get started again.
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok gotcha. ill use the fuse block fuse as my fuse for the different heated gear pieces. The SAE connector with the inline fuse in it is overkill so I cut that off and wired the plug & play connector for the eastern beaver.

so now I ask you fine gentlemen ............. where do you keep your heated gear controller? I have the new gerbing/gyde wireless dual controller. So its the controller itself with 2 on/off buttons on it (which is wired to power) ... and then there's a separate little wireless box that controls the temp for the 2 different circuits. Im assuming people just carry the controller in their pocket? Then just have an SAE connector sticking out the side of their bike?
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Last edited by repsolracer22; 02-02-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-02-2016, 12:54 PM
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I put a positive and a negative bus bar velcroed to the top of the battery for extra connections.



Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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