Need Advice - '12 V1000 Starter Switch Assembly Installation - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #1 of 10 Old 11-20-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Need Advice - '12 V1000 Starter Switch Assembly Installation

Hello All,

Well my starter switch 'Bit the Dirt' and would no longer consistently/reliably start the bike. Not good. I ordered a replacement (schematic below). It looks to be a simple plug and play affair.

I assume that the tank (as close to empty of fuel as possible) has to come off for the exchange.

However any and all tips/tricks from the collective specifically about accessing the connection/plug would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks in Advance!!!
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File Type: jpg Starter Switch.jpg (90.9 KB, 6 views)

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post #2 of 10 Old 11-20-2019, 10:00 PM
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picture speaks 1000 words. looks like the airbox needs to come out, and for me, that was the BIGGEST pita.

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post #3 of 10 Old 11-21-2019, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teevee View Post
picture speaks 1000 words. looks like the airbox needs to come out, and for me, that was the BIGGEST pita.
You Da Man!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, removing the tank is the one thing I've been dreading! I've removed it once just after I acquired the V in March this year to check/change the air filter as well as inspect the plugs. It's a bulky heavy sucker even with all the fuel I could remove. I can just picture me dropping it.

Many Thanks for the Schematic!!!

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post #4 of 10 Old 11-22-2019, 07:42 AM
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i was looking (not very closely) at my bike last night, and i'm thinking that you may be able to get to the connection by removing the right side cowling, which would definitely be less a pita than removing tank and airbox.

'08 DR650, '07 DL1000
"And anyways, if they don't have motorcycles in heaven, I'd rather go to hell. I'm pretty sure they will have loads of them there." (deelip, 2016)
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-22-2019, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by teevee View Post
i was looking (not very closely) at my bike last night, and i'm thinking that you may be able to get to the connection by removing the right side cowling, which would definitely be less a pita than removing tank and airbox.
Many Thanks!!! But I think the phrase PITA covers accessing the connection pretty well

I've just got to get off my backside and dig into the situation.

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post #6 of 10 Old 11-22-2019, 08:53 PM
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With the air box you should have the lid off, put the driver socket and bar into the front clamp and use a little tape to the air box to support it & keep it there while you fit the boot.

Fit and clamp the front boot first then position and clamp the rear boot, too easy...

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post #7 of 10 Old 11-23-2019, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
With the air box you should have the lid off, put the driver socket and bar into the front clamp and use a little tape to the air box to support it & keep it there while you fit the boot.

Fit and clamp the front boot first then position and clamp the rear boot, too easy...
Hi Rolex,
Just wondering if we're still talking about the Ignition Switch / Handlebar Coupler ???
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File Type: jpg Starter Switch Coupling.JPG (114.1 KB, 1 views)

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Last edited by Big Boy; 11-23-2019 at 10:14 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-23-2019, 06:29 PM
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Teevee mentioned he found removing the air box a real pita and it looks like you may need to remove it too.

Getting a tool onto the front clamp can be frustrating because it's quite hard to see, by fitting the tool before you start reassembly that part is easy.

By having the lid off you get to easily move the boots around from the inside so they slip home without drama.
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Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
YZ250N smoker with rego, Stinky.
Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
Club Lead not Club Med.
He with the most toys wins.
Out of my depth in a puddle.
Live life on the edge you will see more that way.
Ridding a motorcycle keeps things in balance.
At the end of each trail and at the end of each day history is made.
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-23-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
Teevee mentioned he found removing the air box a real pita and it looks like you may need to remove it too.

Getting a tool onto the front clamp can be frustrating because it's quite hard to see, by fitting the tool before you start reassembly that part is easy.

By having the lid off you get to easily move the boots around from the inside so they slip home without drama.
Many Thanks!!!

"There comes a time in the affairs of men, when we must take the bull by the tail and face the situation."
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-23-2019, 10:10 PM
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i found that the hardest part about getting it back together was getting all the second air crap reconnected. so, i bought the eliminator kit and voila! no more second air shit!

also, a really long screwdriver and quasi-needle nose pliers helps.

'08 DR650, '07 DL1000
"And anyways, if they don't have motorcycles in heaven, I'd rather go to hell. I'm pretty sure they will have loads of them there." (deelip, 2016)
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