Trouble with the left side handlebar switch... - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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  • 1 Post By Rolex
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  • 2 Post By Thumpercrazee
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-22-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Trouble with the left side handlebar switch...

I have a K4 with 70,000 miles. I was out for an extended day ride of 700 miles a few weeks ago when after dark I noticed a lack of lighting. As I was unable to get the lights on I had to use the flash pass button to get home which was about 200 miles. I took the bike in to a dealer and had it checked and was told the switch had indications of heat problems and that the mechanic had fixed it. A week later on a short ride the bike stopped at a light and would not start. The indication was a battery problem. I replaced the battery, fully charged same and after three days sitting I decided to put it back on the charger and check its' charge. Usually my smart charger goes to over 80% in a few minutes of being attached. This time it took over an hour to indicate 80%. I am suspicious about the switch (left side) on the handlebar. Has anyone had a similar occurrence?

I have ordered an OEM replacement switch to correct this issue.

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post #2 of 8 Old 10-22-2019, 05:58 PM
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You really need to start with some voltage readings relying on a battery charger will lead you off in all sorts of directions.

Get readings with the motor off, at idle and at 3-5 thousand RPM's.

Charging problems are well documented with these bikes and the hot switch may or may not be related.
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-22-2019, 09:55 PM
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um, look at the starter switch on the right side, contacts are probably burnt, not uncommon occurrence. The starter button temporarily disables the headlights when the starter is engaged
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-22-2019, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumpercrazee View Post
I have a K4 with 70,000 miles. I was out for an extended day ride of 700 miles a few weeks ago when after dark I noticed a lack of lighting. As I was unable to get the lights on I had to use the flash pass button to get home which was about 200 miles. I took the bike in to a dealer and had it checked and was told the switch had indications of heat problems and that the mechanic had fixed it. A week later on a short ride the bike stopped at a light and would not start. The indication was a battery problem. I replaced the battery, fully charged same and after three days sitting I decided to put it back on the charger and check its' charge. Usually my smart charger goes to over 80% in a few minutes of being attached. This time it took over an hour to indicate 80%. I am suspicious about the switch (left side) on the handlebar. Has anyone had a similar occurrence? I have ordered an OEM replacement switch to correct this issue.
There may be a couple different issues at play here.

Having the bike not start after riding all day points to system charging issues. As mentioned above by Rolex, get out your handheld voltmeter and give us the reading that you see. Don't charge the battery for a day or two via your battery charger. Then read across the + and - of the battery with everything off. Start the bike and read at idle. Also get readings with engine going at 3k rpm and 5k rpm. Please post those when you get them.

As you wait for the OEM replacement switch to arrive, search this forum for discussions about the headlight relay modification. Installing a relay for the headlights or a plug-n-play kit might be worth considering.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-08-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I thought I had all fixed with the new battery so took off on aa local ride. 50 miles later I was along side of the road again. Lucky for me I was in Jessup GA and I know the local dealer there. I called and they came and picked up the bike and I. ( Many thanks to Brian and his team at Bargeron Powersports.) So in short order it was found that the stator had gone bad. So the mystery is solved and will have to be fixed once the appropriate parts are received.

Thanks to all for your assistance and thoughts. My being non mechanically inclined creates some problems but being able to share your thoughts to a technician helps .
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Last edited by Thumpercrazee; 11-08-2019 at 10:26 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-08-2019, 01:00 PM
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Since your stator is bad and they have the bike open, they had better check your rotor magnets, and jbweld them in place! *Tons* of info about that here, of course...you can send them links to the posts here, or just copy some pictures from here and email to them. Don't let them put that bike back together without doing this.
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-12-2019, 10:37 AM
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Also, there's that damn connector in the left fairing "cheek"... Three of the pins in this connector carry the current for the headlights (so basically the ground pin is carrying about 10 amps full time through a tiny connection). It's undersized and open to the elements, so this stupid connector eventually goes bad in every V-Strom when it corrodes and overheats.

So anyway, make sure you take a look at that in addition to the other stuff.
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-12-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildDoktor View Post
Since your stator is bad and they have the bike open, they had better check your rotor magnets, and jbweld them in place! *Tons* of info about that here, of course...you can send them links to the posts here, or just copy some pictures from here and email to them. Don't let them put that bike back together without doing this.
Too much liability in that for a dealer, I imagine that a new rotor would instead be installed......but YES you are right they need checked and likely replaced.

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