Stuff to loctite - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #11 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 04:41 AM
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looky here

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-...unt-bolts.html
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post #12 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 01:20 PM
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dont go crazy with the loctite, remember you may also have to disassemble on the road! I keep red, blue and purple on hand. Red will be a pain to disassemble anywhere, so reserve for areas that are permanent. Blue is in between the purple and red. Still some good strength, but easier to remove with hand tools. Still could be a pain depending on the area. Purple i reserve for areas i have questions on. Is that going to hold, will i need to remove it, etc. Experience as an engineer and with designing with loctite has told me when i could use some.

The chain guard is a good one though. Anything that moves and vibrates. I only did my chain guard because i added a tire hugger where it torques down on plastic, and used purple. The plastic will wear and now your preload is gone. Case brackets might benefit from a little.

Unless the service manual calls for it, i would just torque and leave it. Any particular questions on a part, we should be able to answer.

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post #13 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 05:32 PM
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One other thing to bear in mind is that Loctite degrades most types of plastics. Don't use it on fairing fasteners.
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post #14 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
One other thing to bear in mind is that Loctite degrades most types of plastics. Don't use it on fairing fasteners.
If I'm not mistaken, there is a Locktite specifically made for plastics.

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post #15 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 06:53 PM
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forego thread lockers, and do what racers do, safety wire

http://www.bobmartinco.com/pdf/safety_tying_wire.pdf

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post #16 of 28 Old 08-28-2019, 08:36 PM
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Safety wiring even on race bikes is only done on certain fasteners not all fasteners. Racers still use Loctite.
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post #17 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 10:09 AM
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What is it about that chain guard? Mine was flapping in the breeze after I visited a ghost town one day.

The relevant swingarm holes still had nice clean threads, but I replaced the (remaining) factory screw and its missing twin with stainless hex head screws. Made them long enough that I could also place nyloc nuts on the inner side, just to be sure.

Those screws should be hex head anyway. There's stuff in the way that prevents a straight shot with a screwdriver, so a hex key is the perfect tool.
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Last edited by DesertBike; 08-29-2019 at 10:18 AM.
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post #18 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vanislejay View Post
As I have been humble bragging around the site for the last bit, I'm doing a big trip over september with lots of offroad. I'm planning to spend a night this week blue loctiting everything I can think of on the bike to avoid any bolts rattling out.

Does anyone have a list of things they loctite, or can mention some stuff I might miss?
After having one rear brake caliper bolt jump, one loosen, and then the bolt that retains the pads almost jump (losing one pad in the process): BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS!!!

Fortunately we found the pad and the train didn't run it over. Really.
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post #19 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by drmonbowen View Post
After having one rear brake caliper bolt jump, one loosen, and then the bolt that retains the pads almost jump (losing one pad in the process): BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS!!!

Fortunately we found the pad and the train didn't run it over. Really.
My Experience:
I've had to be very careful using Locktite when bolting steel to aluminum. They can easily weld to each other!
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post #20 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 01:28 PM
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I don't use Loctite on anything that has an important torque spec. Such as, brake caliper bolts and axle nuts.

2007 Vee with too many farkles and 50k+ (s)miles
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