new stator installed -- only 68 V-AC output - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #1 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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new stator installed -- only 68 V-AC output

Hi, last week my OEM stator fried on my 08 DL1000, 55,xxx miles. I bought a new one from the local dealer and installed it today. Ohm test across the three sets of wires was fine. Bike started fine, but AC volt test across the three wires with plug disconnected from R/R and engine at 3k rpm was reading about 68-69V-AC. That's low. Connected the plug (stator to R/R) and checked Amps across the battery, which weren't even at 12 while at 3k rpm.

When I took the case apart to remove the fried OEM stator, my magnets were found to be in perfect shape. They were rock solid in place. The gap between each was the same. I put JBWeld in between the magnets just for preventative maintenance. Cleaned everything so no JB anywhere else, and the gaps were not filled completely -- just enough for a security dam to keep the gap between them consistent.

What did I miss? Why would I only get 68-69Volts AC, at 3k rpm, out of a brand new stator?
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 01:03 PM
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Well, my 2012 got a new stator due to the recall.

It didn't work right out of the new box!

I would pull the plug again and instead of the AC voltage test do a ground test. Set meter on ohms. One lead on a known good ground, the other lead on any one of the three wires. Check each wire. ANY movement in an analog meter, or ANY change in reading on a digital meter means there is an internal short in the stator.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #3 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
do a ground test. Set meter on ohms. One lead on a known good ground, the other lead on any one of the three wires. Check each wire. ANY movement in an analog meter, or ANY change in reading on a digital meter means there is an internal short in the stator.
Thanks. I just checked that and all is fine. No resistance showing between the three wires and ground. Resistance among the pairs is consistent.

I'd go back to the dealer and talk to the parts manager, but what else should I be checking or what else would be causing such a low reading on the V-AC? I need ammunition for my chat with the parts manager. He's a nice guy and has treated me well so far. I don't plan to go postal on him but I want to talk informed. Any thoughts about what I could have missed?
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post #4 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 01:39 PM
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It is possible the regulator was damaged. Run a test on that as well before you go.

Chris

1. 2004 DL1000
2. Next bike
3. Next bike
4. Next bike
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post #5 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yarz1 View Post

I'd go back to the dealer and talk to the parts manager, but what else should I be checking or what else would be causing such a low reading on the V-AC? I need ammunition for my chat with the parts manager. He's a nice guy and has treated me well so far. I don't plan to go postal on him but I want to talk informed. Any thoughts about what I could have missed?
Normally that points to the magnets migrating. But you are sure they are in place and spaced good enough.

What is the actual voltage reading across battery terminals with engine off. Then at idle, then at 5000 rpm?

The bad thing here is that normally electrical components are NOT returnable! Just to confirm, was this an OEM stator or aftermarket?

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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prior to installing the stator, I checked the R/R. Based on the diode test, it is fine. Even if the R/R was bad, that would not impact the V-AV test from the stator because the two are disconnected.

yep, I'm certain the magnets are fine. I couldn't move them, and I tried to move each one. So I did the JBWeld dam in between each

voltage across the battery terminals with engine off was 12.7. I figured that was OK for starting the bike and continuing with the tests when I first started.

I don't remember doing the volt test across the battery once it was running. I was focused on the stator tests. Thanks for the advice to do that. I just ran down to the garage and checked. I checked voltage across the battery at idle and it was 14.6. I checked it at 3k and 5k rpm and it was 14.3. Soooooooooooooooooooo, I conclude that the stator MUST be working properly. That leaves me to think that my meter probes were not getting good contact with the female connectors inside the stator plug for the V-AC test.

Any different conclusions you'd draw? If not, I guess the stator is OK.

Now to mount a digital readout LED volt meter on my dash.

(oh, yes the new stator is OEM purchased from the dealer).
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 03:02 PM
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[QUOTE=Yarz1;5415407]voltage across the battery terminals with engine off was 12.7. I checked voltage across the battery at idle and it was 14.6. I checked it at 3k and 5k rpm and it was 14.3. QUOTE]

Your voltage readings are a little strange. Are you sure your instrument is reading correct?

14.6 at idle seems unlikely and it should go up with revving to 3-4k, not down.
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 03:15 PM
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Yes, that is better! The voltage shows current being generated so maybe you had a glitch in measuring the A/C readings. \

INSTALL the voltmeter! Best thing you can do for a V Strom!

Lower voltage as the engine revs is probably ok. That is the R/R doing its job. I actually don't like to see 14.6 volts. I don't really like anything over 14.2 on a good system. But there are batteries that are designed to be charged at that voltage, so it is just my old age causing me to wonder about that!
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'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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you guys are correct in that I'd guess the higher RPM would bring higher voltage too. Could be my old and inexpensive meter, or it could be operator error of not getting the best connection between probe and battery terminal. Even with alligator clips to play as my "third hand", working the throttle, watching the RPMs and maintaining good contact between probes and battery terminals challenges my coordination level. But at least what it proves to me is that the stator is working.


This next part is probably basis for a new thread but I'll add it here. When I was reading all of the threads here that I could on stator and R/R problems and solutions, I ran across the concept of putting a larger R/R into play in the system. Since the OEM stator on my 08 DL1000 is a shunt type, it only helps the stator to run hotter than necessary. Much of the discussion though was about the DL650. Guys were changing from a shunt to a series -- specifically the SH 847. Greywolf posted that the newer DL1000s are using the SH 847 as OEM stock. He even identified the part number as 32800-31J00. Unfortunately, that doesn't plug into my wiring harness. Some one else identified a Triumph regulator lead as fitting the DL wire harness plugs. On the 650, the Triumph harness fits 3 of the four plugs -- so guys had to solder in one plug. But on the 1000, it is plug and play! Today the UPS man delivered the Triumph harness I ordered. FYI it is part number T2500676. I verified that the Triumph regulator lead fits all four plugs so that I can plug it into the OEM stator, into the DC and the AC ports on the SH 847, and into the wiring harness (Roadstercycle suggests taping up this particular plug and going straight to the battery from the R/R if you buy the SH 847 from them). I found that buying the SH 847 from my local Zuki dealer and the Triumph regulator lead from the Triumph dealer was the least expensive option -- still expensive in my book, but the least expensive.

So my next project is to install the SH 847 so that I am going from a shunt to a series R/R. That should run the stator at a lower temperature and hopefully avoid any future problems. But I won't do that until I have the in-dash digital LED voltmeter installed.

Thanks for all the help and advice!
.
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-18-2019, 05:06 PM
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When this topic comes up I like to mention Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL. I had them rebuild my second self-burning Suzuki stator (long story), and I've been riding with it for a year and a half with no sign of trouble.

Custom Rewind seems to know how to build a DL1000 stator better than Suzuki. I had two Suzi factory stators burn up inside a year, including one after I'd upgraded to an SH847 R/R, but my Custom Rewind job has been going for over a year and a half with no sign of trouble.

As to voltage testing, IIRC I saw something like 90-95 VAC on all 3 legs of the stator @ 5000 rpm, when the stator was freshly rebuilt. The DL1000 K6+ service manual says the stator is bad if output is below 75 VAC @ 5000 rpm on any of the 3 legs.

OP, did you price a Roadstercycle SH847 kit? Obviously you can get an SH847 from different places, but I found the one-stop shopping, with new wiring harness included, helpful.

2007 Vee with too many farkles and 50k+ (s)miles
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