First off, thanks to Barry Buchanan for his excellent and famous walkthrough found here:
He's doing a DL650, but from what I can tell, the job is identical for a DL1000, down to steering head geometry.
I'm at the point of torquing the steering stem nuts to spec & adjusting steering tension force (aka how hard it is to turn the handlebars). About to take a break for lunch, so here are some notes about how I did it. I don't have a workbench, vise, or most of the other tool-making setup Mr. B did, so I did some things a bit differently:
-I bought the special steering stem nut socket off eBay right away (DHS 4131). It was a worthwhile purchase. There simply is no substitute, if you're not set up to make your own such tool out of pipe. None of the automotive spindle nut sockets/4WD spindle nut sockets commonly available will work - they're too large, have wrong number of teeth, etc.
-I didn't care to install cheap Chinese bearings (e.g. AllBalls). I bought genuine NTN 32006x bearings from a local distributor. Dust seals came from eBay.
-I started trying to get the lower steering bearing's inner race (the part that's pressed onto the stem shaft) off with a chisel, as in the service manual. However I only moved it maybe 1/2" before I got tired of accidentally dinging the stem shaft, triple clamp member, and generally marring the heck out of things.
-I don't own a Dremel, so I bought an automotive bearing separator & puller kit (specifically this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRZLZ6J
). That kit made it pretty easy to get that bearing race off, safely and without causing more damage.
-Since I already had the bearing puller kit, I used it in reverse to install the lower bearing inner race on the stem shaft (as well as a new lower dust seal). As it turns out, the leftover inner race from the factory ball bearing is an excellent tool. I turned it upside down to drive the new tapered roller bearing down on the shaft without damaging its cage.
One difficulty with this method is that you'll only ever be able to use one of the legs of the puller, because the triple clamp body is in the way (this will make sense when you try it). I used a large G-clamp as a stand-in for the other puller leg, alternately tightening the central screw of the puller and the G-clamp. I felt like I needed 3 or 4 hands to get everything to line up & stay in place. Eventually, I got the new bearing pushed all the way down the stem shaft.
When you're done, you'll need the bearing separator again to get the old inner race off the top of the new lower bearing, but it doesn't need to move far to come loose.
-It was not too difficult to tap the old outer bearing races out of the steering head, using a long, cheap Harbor Freight flat-blade screwdriver as a punch.
-PVC pipe & coupler proved totally inadequate as a bearing race driver. Even with freezing the races for a couple of hours to make them as small as possible, and greasing them up, the new outer races would only go about halfway in to the steering head. No matter how hard I pounded on the PVC pipe, all I was doing at that point was flaking off pieces of PVC.
-That being the case, I finished up the bearing race install with an OEMTools Bearing Race and Seal Driver Installer kit (27119) via AutoZone's loan-a-tool program. This tool is made entirely of aluminum, so it's pretty much impossible to damage your (steel) bearing races during installation.
-I likewise used a mechanic's mirror to check that the new races were fully seated in the steering head. Great tool to have.
So far I've spent about $70 on special tools, and $50 on the bearings & dust seals. Sure beats paying a shop ~$400 to do the job, and that with the cheapest bearings they could find, vs. knowing that I've installed high-quality NTN bearings.
I've taken some photos along the way, but it's a lot of work to edit and post them, so may be a while before you see any.
Anyway, I hope these notes help anyone who's about to do or contemplating doing this job. IMO it is do-able by anyone mechanically inclined, within a reasonable budget, even if you don't own a Dremel, vise, or workbench.