Vee steering bearing replacement/upgrade notes - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #21 of 26 Old 07-22-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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No prob!

I don't think there's any getting around the trial-and-error part of dialing in steering tension. Unfortunately.

However it is SO SO SO much easier when you have the right tools. Very glad I bought the special stem nut socket. Re-adjusting steering tension would be much more painful without it.
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-02-2019, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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It's been slow. I was unable to ride for several days while solving a problem with the Signals circuit.

Got that fixed, made a further adjustment and declared "done" today. Scott's is back on, phone mount will be reattached later today.

I was unable to get the steering to where it would move all the way over with a "light tap of the finger" as Brockie described in that other thread. Even with the top stem nut (one of two #5's in the parts diagram) removed, the setup just wasn't that loose.

The torque values are much guesswork and trial-and-error. I suspect book values only apply to OEM-style ball bearings. Tapered rollers have more contact area, so you're just not going to get the same lightness of steering.

Even so, I got it to where I don't notice any weaving a low speed and there is no vibration on the interstate (original problem!).

It's impossible to accurately measure steering forces without some sort of scale or tool. It's light enough for me yet there's enough resistance to prevent wobble. Problem solved.
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post #23 of 26 Old 08-02-2019, 02:36 PM
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Use a fish scale...seriously!

I replaced the steering stem bearings on my last bike (cbr1100xx); the manual described the correct tension as a certain amount of pounds of force to move the bars from rest. The way to determine that was to suspend the front of the bike, turn the bars all the way to one side, attach a fish scale (no joke!) to a certain spot (can't remember right now if it was the bar end or a spot on the triple tree...), then gently pull while checking how much the fish weighs. If it weighs between (I can't remember exactly, but this is an example) 5 and 7lbs, the tension is set correctly!

Even though I went from ball bearings to tapered rollers, that scale seemed to do the trick...I could finally take my hands off at any speed, and the bike was stable from 0-160mph. :-)

Not sure if there's anywhere that Suzuki publishes that kind of info...

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post #24 of 26 Old 08-02-2019, 02:37 PM
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BTW, I may try to convince you to sell me that tool in the future when I replace the bearings on my dl4k. :-)
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2004 V-Strom 1000 (currently broken - parts received - repairs in progress - snag hit - repairs on pause - unsnagged - repairs in progress)
Two Brothers with P1 tips, PCIII USB, SuperBrace Fork Brace, K&N filters, ROX bar risers, Kappa top and side cases, MadStad, Givi tall windshield, Givi engine guards, Sargent Seat, 12 volt air compressor, 530 Conversion, 17/44, SpeedoDRD, Rudolph Nose and Antlers
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post #25 of 26 Old 08-11-2019, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertBike View Post

-According to the service manual it is the bottom of the two stem nuts that you've got to adjust to dial in steering tension. So...the whole works (down to the dust seal on the upper bearing) has got to come off.
Are you sure you have the parts installed in the correct order?

The dust seal fits between the lower ajustment nut and the bearing. There is no need to remove the seal to adjust bearing tension.

Spaling errors and typos have been included on porpoise for those who enjoy finding them.
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post #26 of 26 Old 10-25-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't take a whole lot of photos, but here's some of what I have.

Here you can see the difficulty of using an automotive bearing splitter/puller tool to get the lower steering bearing inner race off the lower triple clamp member.

The steering stem is simply too tall for a lot of such kits.

You can probably imagine also the difficulty of using the same tool to push the new lower steering bearing down on the stem. The triple clamp body is very much in the way - you'll only have clear access to one side of the bearing pusher tool from below. I ended up using a G-clamp on the other side, to work around the interfering triple clamp body. It was janky, but it worked.

After installing the outer race of the new upper steering bearing:


Bearing installer tool I borrowed from AutoZone to get the above done:


Don't know how I would have done this job without a center stand:


Bike was still not earthquake-proof in this config - I had to be careful or the whole works could've tumbled over. But, it was still a lot better than it would have been if relying on jackstands (or anything else I can imagine) to hold up the rear end.
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Last edited by DesertBike; 10-25-2019 at 09:35 AM.
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