Vee steering bearing replacement/upgrade notes - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #11 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 12:24 AM
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Koyo makes good bearings but the application is not best utilized for steering head bearings. Most likely a cost saving measure. After 47K isn't bad.









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post #12 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got everything back together and tools cleaned up in a couple of sesions last night & this morning. Looking forward to some test riding this evening.

Of course you know I had to do some things more than once. Only after I had the top of the triple tree back on, steering stem nuts and clamp nuts etc. all torqued to spec, did I realize I needed to run the throttle cables through the forks (inside triple tree). Oops.

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post #13 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 03:56 PM
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Those are things I'll keep in mind if I ever have to do this.




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2008 Silver DL1000
Fork Brace
WERKS Clutch Basket
Super Bright 5600K LEDS
Continental Attack 2 Tires
Power Commander III
GIPro Gear Indicator ATRE
GP Kompozit Windshield
Mirror Extensions
OEM Center Stand
Galper Front Sintered Brake Pads
Galper Steel Braided Front Brake Lines
SV Racing Big Brake Adapter Kit
Nissin Gold 4 Piston Front Calipers
( From 2003 Honda CBR 954 RR Fireblade )
Maxima 10/40 PURE Synthetic Oil
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post #14 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Fortunately it wasn't a horrible fix. I had to secure the handlebars out of the way & remove the top triple clamp member again. Or I suppose I could have disconnected the throttle cables from the grip housing & re-run them through the triple tree. Bit of work either way.

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post #15 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 04:49 PM
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Every Japanese motorcycle I've owned had ball bearings but I've never had problems other than maintenance.


Even most high end bicycles use ball bearings as stock equipment, but there is aftermarket expensive high end needle bearing or ceramic bearing cartridge products..

This company Chris King makes all kinds of high products with ball, ceramic and tapered bearings for bicycles.
https://chrisking.com


.

2008 Silver DL1000
Fork Brace
WERKS Clutch Basket
Super Bright 5600K LEDS
Continental Attack 2 Tires
Power Commander III
GIPro Gear Indicator ATRE
GP Kompozit Windshield
Mirror Extensions
OEM Center Stand
Galper Front Sintered Brake Pads
Galper Steel Braided Front Brake Lines
SV Racing Big Brake Adapter Kit
Nissin Gold 4 Piston Front Calipers
( From 2003 Honda CBR 954 RR Fireblade )
Maxima 10/40 PURE Synthetic Oil
Staintune Slip-on Mufflers
Shindengen SH847 Serial R/R
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post #16 of 26 Old 07-16-2019, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertBike View Post
Fortunately it wasn't a horrible fix. I had to secure the handlebars out of the way & remove the top triple clamp member again. Or I suppose I could have disconnected the throttle cables from the grip housing & re-run them through the triple tree. Bit of work either way.

If I ever do head bearings on the Vee, I will remove the gas tank and most the plastics. After doing plastics a couple times it's become easier.

2008 Silver DL1000
Fork Brace
WERKS Clutch Basket
Super Bright 5600K LEDS
Continental Attack 2 Tires
Power Commander III
GIPro Gear Indicator ATRE
GP Kompozit Windshield
Mirror Extensions
OEM Center Stand
Galper Front Sintered Brake Pads
Galper Steel Braided Front Brake Lines
SV Racing Big Brake Adapter Kit
Nissin Gold 4 Piston Front Calipers
( From 2003 Honda CBR 954 RR Fireblade )
Maxima 10/40 PURE Synthetic Oil
Staintune Slip-on Mufflers
Shindengen SH847 Serial R/R
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post #17 of 26 Old 07-17-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Suit yourself, but there is no real need to remove either the gas tank or plastics for this job. It would be slightly easier to access the bottom of the steering head with the fairings removed, but that's about it.

For me taking off the forks was plenty.
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post #18 of 26 Old 07-19-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Finally went for a test ride just now.

I think some adjustment is needed - not quite enough steering tension, need to tighten the stem nut a little. I backed off the top nut 1/4 turn as described in the service manual, but I think it actually needs to be tightened by 1/8. Or maybe the full 1/4 turn, more test riding required.

That said stability is better than it was. Only a little wobble above 70 mph on the interstate, vs. the ridiculous handlebar-shaking I was having before. Some decel wobble going down from say 40 to 30 mph. So, probably still too little tension.

Before doing all that though I need to install my EB wiring extensions. It's impossibly tedious to work with the handlebars, with the stock-length wiring and 3.5" bar risers.

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Last edited by DesertBike; 07-19-2019 at 10:57 AM.
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post #19 of 26 Old 07-22-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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OK, EB wiring extensions installed. That's...a tale in itself!

I ran into a couple of unexpected difficulties in attempting to re-adjust the steering tension:

-According to the service manual it is the bottom of the two stem nuts that you've got to adjust to dial in steering tension. So...the whole works (down to the dust seal on the upper bearing) has got to come off.

--Plan is to re-tighten the lower nut to exactly the specified torque, then back it off none. Manual says back it off "1/4 to 1/2 turn" but I feel this steering tension is way too light.

-Once I had removed the top stem nut, upper triple clamp member, and upper of the two steering stem nuts, I found that the tabbed washer (51641-33E00) which goes between them had rotated a few degrees. The tab had cut into the walls of the channel through the threaded section of the stem shaft. Weird. It was therefore not possible to simply pull the washer off as usual (which should take very little force).

--After some sweating, swearing, and worrying, I was able to get the tabbed washer loose. Repeated jiggling with needle nose pliers did the trick. Luckily. No idea how I would have got it off otherwise.

-If you back the lower stem nut off all the way, the whole works (forks plus lower steering bearing) tends to try to fall out of the steering head. Ugh. Lining that back up to get the top stem nut tightened is going to be fun. I have the front brake secured with a zip tie so the forks dont't try to roll away from me every time. Thank goodness I have a center stand, otherwise I'd never get this done.
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post #20 of 26 Old 07-22-2019, 11:01 AM
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Thanks for documenting this; I'll be doing this job once I replace my motor. (And new fork springs at the same time.)

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