I got stranded the other day with a dead battery -- a day's ride from home. Just installed a new battery 18 months ago. After a 2 hour wait for AAA, the bike and I were deposited at Advance Auto where I had called and they had a battery waiting. (First, a HUGE shout out to Aaron, the AAA driver. He knew what he was doing, was extremely professional, and treated my bike like it was his own. And yes, he is a rider). (Second, HUGE shout out to Jon, the Advance Auto manager. He was extremely helpful knowing my situation. He charged my dead battery for free and load tested it. Nope, not the battery as the problem). Once I got the battery charged and bike started, I went to Plan B. I bought a new battery for safety's sake and stored it in my top trunk. Then I rode home. Made it home without needing to install the second battery.
I'm riding a 2008 DL1000 with 55,xxx miles. LED headlights, with the headlight-relay-to-bypass-the-ignition-switch modification. LED aux lights with dedicated on/off switches so they are on only when I throw the switch. All my farkles run through a switched aux fuse box so nothing is on when the key is off.
I am currently reading through the threads -- liking this one quite a bit: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-...t-results.html
I ran a meter over my battery and the voltage is just shy of 13 as it sits in the bike. At idle, the current is just over 10 amps. Boo-hiss. I need to measure current at 3k rpm, but didn't think about it at the time. The battery has been holding a charge quite well since installed 18 months ago. No issues starting the bike, even when I hadn't started it up for a week or more. But outta the blue the other day, when I stalled the bike while in line at a traffic signal, it barely turned over when I tried to start it up. And I had been riding for 10 hours already that day. By the third try at hitting the start button, all I was getting was clicking. That's where the AAA and Advance Auto folks saved my day.
When I hit the kill switch and leave the key on, with lights shining, the red light on the dash illuminates. Why doesn't that red light illuminate when the charging system isn't up to snuff as I'm riding? (Yes, I will be installing a volt meter on my dash now!! Just need to decide if I want one with just colored lights or one with full numerical readout. Any input?)
I see that tracking down issues in the charging system is going to be a multiple step process -- JB Weld magnets, check stator, check rectifier, etc... Hopefully not replacing too many, if any.
Without opening the side case and physically seeing that the magnets have moved, what is the best test for determining if the magnets have moved? I always like to first check the simplest issues, so I'm thinking the magnets are the simplest at this moment.
And any other easy-peazy/simple tests to run on the system before I roll up my sleeves and tear into it?