Shouldn't The Red Light Come On ?? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #1 of 7 Old 07-13-2019, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Shouldn't The Red Light Come On ??

I got stranded the other day with a dead battery -- a day's ride from home. Just installed a new battery 18 months ago. After a 2 hour wait for AAA, the bike and I were deposited at Advance Auto where I had called and they had a battery waiting. (First, a HUGE shout out to Aaron, the AAA driver. He knew what he was doing, was extremely professional, and treated my bike like it was his own. And yes, he is a rider). (Second, HUGE shout out to Jon, the Advance Auto manager. He was extremely helpful knowing my situation. He charged my dead battery for free and load tested it. Nope, not the battery as the problem). Once I got the battery charged and bike started, I went to Plan B. I bought a new battery for safety's sake and stored it in my top trunk. Then I rode home. Made it home without needing to install the second battery.

I'm riding a 2008 DL1000 with 55,xxx miles. LED headlights, with the headlight-relay-to-bypass-the-ignition-switch modification. LED aux lights with dedicated on/off switches so they are on only when I throw the switch. All my farkles run through a switched aux fuse box so nothing is on when the key is off.

I am currently reading through the threads -- liking this one quite a bit: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-...t-results.html

I ran a meter over my battery and the voltage is just shy of 13 as it sits in the bike. At idle, the current is just over 10 amps. Boo-hiss. I need to measure current at 3k rpm, but didn't think about it at the time. The battery has been holding a charge quite well since installed 18 months ago. No issues starting the bike, even when I hadn't started it up for a week or more. But outta the blue the other day, when I stalled the bike while in line at a traffic signal, it barely turned over when I tried to start it up. And I had been riding for 10 hours already that day. By the third try at hitting the start button, all I was getting was clicking. That's where the AAA and Advance Auto folks saved my day.

When I hit the kill switch and leave the key on, with lights shining, the red light on the dash illuminates. Why doesn't that red light illuminate when the charging system isn't up to snuff as I'm riding? (Yes, I will be installing a volt meter on my dash now!! Just need to decide if I want one with just colored lights or one with full numerical readout. Any input?)

I see that tracking down issues in the charging system is going to be a multiple step process -- JB Weld magnets, check stator, check rectifier, etc... Hopefully not replacing too many, if any.

Without opening the side case and physically seeing that the magnets have moved, what is the best test for determining if the magnets have moved? I always like to first check the simplest issues, so I'm thinking the magnets are the simplest at this moment.

And any other easy-peazy/simple tests to run on the system before I roll up my sleeves and tear into it?

.
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-13-2019, 03:26 PM
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Apparently charging system failure is not something manufacturers account for when designing their bikes. I've personally never seen a bike with a battery light, unlike almost every car for decades. It's just laziness or being cheap, since monitoring voltage is trivial. Some don't even have an oil pressure light, fortunately the Stroms do.

Really troubleshooting is a multistep process, but given that it's a 2008, your magnets most likely have shifted. Don't worry, you'll open it and be like "yep that's not right. That gap isn't supposed to be there". Also check the stator for burning or damage while your in there. You can also test if you are getting AC current from the three phase wire from the stator. If it's only like 30 VAC, there's your problem. It needs to be almost 70+ at 5k.

My R/R also failed at the same time (ironically, creating too much voltage after fixing the magnets). Bought an SH847 and called it a day. Working great ever since.

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Last edited by Demache; 07-13-2019 at 03:29 PM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-13-2019, 03:49 PM
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First, what is the voltage across the battery terminals when the bike is running (at idle and at 3000+ rpm)? If this is 14-and-a-bit, then it's probably not the charging system. Also, you said you did a current test. Across what, and in which direction was the current flowing? Was it charging the battery, or discharging, or was this the current consumed by the bike itself? Was this immediately after starting the bike, or after having run it a while so that the battery was (supposed to be) full?

To perform the stator/rotor test:
1. With the bike NOT running, pull the connector off the R/R. Locate the three wires that go to the stator. Measure the resistance (ohms) across each pair of wires. Readings should be in the low ohms, but not zero and not infinity. Also measure resistance from each stator wire to a known good ground. This should be infinite.
2. With the bike running, measure AC voltage across each wire pair. This should be about 75-90 volts AC when running at 3000 RPM.
(All values from memory - the maintenance manual has the right numbers.)

If test 1 does not check out, it's most likely the stator that failed. If test 2 does not check out, most likely your magnets have migrated. There is no further test you can do without taking the stator/rotor cover off, and that requires draining the oil.
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-13-2019, 03:51 PM
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Easiest, cheapest electrical accessory to add is a digital volt meter. I got one for each bike, about 3 bucks a piece delivered.
Takes the guess work out of the charging question.
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-13-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well, good news and bad news. The good news is, the magnets look perfect!! The bad news is that the stator looks like charcoal briquettes. I checked current across the battery at 3k rpm before I tore into it and was actually getting a less amps than when it was at idle. Weird.

So here are a few questions:

1. Where did y'all source your new stators from when you replaced them?

2. I had the rectifier replaced a few years ago under that recall. Should I replace the stator and rectifier as a set? If so, again, who is the vendor you'd suggest?

3. My magnets look perfect. Evenly spaced, all where they are supposed to be. Should I still go ahead and de-grease the area and fill the space between the magnets with JB Weld? Or not?

.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-14-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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whatever burned (the resin or glue or who knows what) seems to have impacted the end surfaces of just about every one of those contacts on the stator. Clearly the one that burned and the ones immediately adjacent are darkened with residue, but even those 180 degrees around the stator aren't that clean either.

I'm still interested in recommendations on where to buy the stator as well as the R/R, if you have any. From the older threads on this subject, it appears that the OEM stator is recommended. But that doesn't necessarily mean from the dealer, depending on price variation. And, a series type R/R like SH847. Any thoughts on Roadstercycle https://www.roadstercycle.com/
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-14-2019, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yarz1 View Post
whatever burned (the resin or glue or who knows what) seems to have impacted the end surfaces of just about every one of those contacts on the stator. Clearly the one that burned and the ones immediately adjacent are darkened with residue, but even those 180 degrees around the stator aren't that clean either.



I'm still interested in recommendations on where to buy the stator as well as the R/R, if you have any. From the older threads on this subject, it appears that the OEM stator is recommended. But that doesn't necessarily mean from the dealer, depending on price variation. And, a series type R/R like SH847. Any thoughts on Roadstercycle https://www.roadstercycle.com/
I did buy my SH847 from roadstercycle. The kits are quality. A bit of DIY to attach to the stator wire, but it's nothing complicated. If you have ever installed a radio on a car it's easier than that.

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2007 V-Strom DL1000 (current!)

Previous:
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2003 Yamaha V-Star 650 (2012-2016)
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