Back with a 2002 DL1000 - where should I start? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #1 of 11 Old 07-08-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Back with a 2002 DL1000 - where should I start?

I rode a 2015 Wee for a year or so, and sold it this spring. Took an old Ts185 on trade and it lost spark. I donít like tinkering during the summer so I put it up for sale. Got lucky and got offered this vstrom on trade!

46000 miles
Racetech valves and springs
Remus titanium exhaust
Heated grips
Stupid tinted shield
Center stand

As far as I can tell, itís all stock besides the above. It has had the valve check done twice so Iím not worried about that.

After some studying here, I have learned about issues with the stator, and the TPS (is that a throttle position sensor??). The bike runs perfect and has been well maintained. I noticed the clutch fluid was low and looked dirty. I sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir and wiped it out as best as I could, and topped it off with DOT 4. Does flushing the fluid help with the slave cylinder issues some have has? I used to flush and bleed my Vrodís clutch system every season. Should I be worried that the fluid was low? I havenít noticed any leaks yet.

Are there any other common issues I need to look into for this bike?

I will be putting some led headlight bulbs in when I get around to it, and I ordered a small, cheap tail bag to hold my hat and phone. Gonna try to put a few miles on it tonight.


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post #2 of 11 Old 07-08-2019, 04:20 PM
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I did a post a while back on the known issues with older DL1000s. https://www.stromtrooper.com/stromtr...ml#post4736169

In your case, the stator/rotor is not likely to be an issue. The 2002 has a four-magnet rotor, and I don't think any issues have ever been reported with stator or rotors on those. The problems started in 2003 when Suzuki switched to a six-magnet rotor.

Just replacing the clutch fluid in the reservoir is not going to be enough. You also need to change it in the lines, in a process called "bleeding". And no, this won't fix all problems with the clutch. You need to take off the slave cylinder and carefully look at the seal between the piston and the cylinder. That is likely to be worn and not holding fluid in anymore. A replacement is cheap, but do check that the piston and cylinder themselves have not pitted beyond repair. As a partial fix for future problems, later DL1000s received a dust cap that sits between the slave cylinder and the front sprocket area to keep a lot of the muck away. Again, a cheap item which can be retrofitted when you've got the cylinder off the bike anyway.

When you take the slave cylinder off the bike, make sure the piston doesn't pop out under gravity. So either tie the clutch lever to the handlebar (as per the maintenance manual) which locks in the pressure, or put a c-clamp, tie-wrap or something around the slave to prevent the piston from popping out. And most importantly, when you remount the slave cylinder, DO NOT leave the clutch lever tied to the handlebar. This would otherwise force you to work against the pressure of the clutch springs, leading to crooked installations, bent push rods and other misery. (And don't lose the dowel pin. It is vital for proper alignment.)

TPS is indeed the Throttle Position Sender.
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-08-2019, 04:34 PM
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Those early year really benefited from a fork brace ( and mirror extenders, foot peg, control lowering kit, and bolt on larger side stand foot). But they can go forever. i believe the 2002 model was Rider Magazine's bike of the year.
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-08-2019, 04:35 PM
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I would change brake (front and rear) fluids and the clutch fluid.

If you are working on the clutch slave, read this thread: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...eal-saver.html
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-08-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, thank you! Def going to check out these threads.

I know that just draining the fluid res. and refilling isnít sufficient, but itís better than doing nothing and it only took a few mins. I will bleed it out when I get the time.

Will definitely be looking at that slave cylinder soon.


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post #6 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 04:14 AM
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ehart, you may want to read https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-...martinest.html, for some good pix and advice.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 10:21 AM
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On my 2002, I had to replace the radiator and coolant hoses as well as replacing the o-rings and cleaning up those coolant fittings in the middle of the engine's "V".

I can't remember offhand what year I did this; I think it was around 2013 or 2014 and somewhere well north of 70,000 miles. Or maybe I mentioned it in some old post on the topic. In any case, you probably have some miles to go; age affects the rubber, but not as much as heat. Just something to be aware of, and would be worth handling next time you have the tank off.


On any Vee, not just the 2002/03, 45K is right around the mileage that the fuel filter starts to clog and the TPS (throttle position sensor) fail, so I'd do the TPS and fuel filter bypass ASAP and PDQ if these haven't been provably done already.

And of course EVERY V-Strom will suffer dead headlights at some point due to that stupid, doomed-to-corrode, open, undersized connector in the left fairing "cheek". Get ahead of this, and while you're in there check, clean, and protect all the connectors on the bike. Doesn't take long.
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 01:20 PM
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I have a 2002 with 100,000 miles and headed to Nordkapp right now.

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post #9 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 01:22 PM
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2002 VS1000

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-15-2019, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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I donít have a manual for this bike. Iíd like to have at least an owners manual to answer a lot of my dumb questions. Any good source other than eBay? Iíd even be happy with a digital version but not willing to pay much at all for that.

Also, Iíve been running premium gas to be safe. My DL 650 didnít need anything but 87. Is the DL1000 the same?


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