2005 two brothers exhaust - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-03-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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2005 two brothers exhaust

I have a newly purchased 05 1000 with the Two Brothers Exhaust, bike has a miss but will scream when you get the rpms up over 5 or 6. It will pop and sputter. I bought it with a miss, could not pass it up. there is no power commander. Do I need one or is there something else that is missing. Going to try to get the tank off and look around for a boot off the intake and change the rear plug. I changed the front plug and it looked fine. Is there some kind of reset I can try, don't fully understand about a reflash. Going to look that up. Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-03-2019, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention, the seller gave me the factory pipes as well.
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-06-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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So I took the tank off and changed both plugs. Front was good the rear is a little black. I ordered a gauge assembly because a wire a piece broke off and the gauge just reads empty. I checked all the hoses and boots and they were good. I put all back together and last night rode down the highway for 25 miles, put 2 gallons gas in and flew home hitting 95 a few times. It ran a little better, it did not pop and sputter as much but still does in lower rpms. In 5th or 6th gear if you have it above 4500 rpms and higher it runs great. Getting off the ramp, doing 40 in 4th I gave it a lot of throttle and it sputtered alot and finally jumped up. The air filter is like new. Throw some suggestions at me and it would be appreciated big time. Thanks ahead.
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-06-2019, 02:51 PM
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I'd run a few tanks with a high concentration of SeaFoam in it. See if that helps. Might also consider the fuel filter mod as that could be clogged up too.

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post #5 of 8 Old 07-06-2019, 03:12 PM
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Pretty sure you're going to need a power commander to run an aftermarket pipe. There are maps you can download from here for your exact setup.

2004 V-Strom 1000 (currently broken - parts received - repairs in progress - snag hit - repairs on pause - unsnagged - repairs in progress)
Two Brothers with P1 tips, PCIII USB, SuperBrace Fork Brace, K&N filters, ROX bar risers, Kappa top and side cases, MadStad, Givi tall windshield, Givi engine guards, Sargent Seat, 12 volt air compressor, 530 Conversion, 17/44, SpeedoDRD, Rudolph Nose and Antlers
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-06-2019, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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why would one plug be good and the other carboned up a little? I will try running it today or tomorrow again down the highway but I might put the factory pipes on and see what happens.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-07-2019, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by timc490310 View Post
why would one plug be good and the other carboned up a little? I will try running it today or tomorrow again down the highway but I might put the factory pipes on and see what happens.
2 different cylinders is why. In a cylinder that is too lean the plug is going to be white because the cylinder is running too hot so no carbon will develop on the plug. Conversely when a cylinder is too rich the plug will appear dark and sooty as the carbon will build up instead of burning off. It doesn't just happen to the plug but to the whole cylinder. The top of the piston, the ring grooves, the valve faces and the port behind the valves also are going to be carboned up if too rich and super clean if too lean.
If you have a partial clog in one injector one cylinder will be working harder than the other thus running hotter. The injector that is not misting the fuel enough is going to build more carbon. Thus the suggestion to run a few tanks with seafoam, to try and clean the fuel delivery system up to at least a factory set amount. With after market exhaust you are going to need a fuel map change to give more fuel as now your bike can flow more air. That's the fuel side of it.
Another thing that will make one plug lighter than the other is valves that are too tight. The miniscule time that a valve stem has clearance is enough time for the valve to dissipate it's heat to the oil film and time for the cam lobe to do the same. A valve that is too tight with no clearance will eventually run hotter especially under a heavy load transferring the heat to all parts of the cylinder. So that plug may appear to be leaner even if it is not. That's the mechanical side of it.
One last thing that will confuse the actual reading of the plugs is the grade of fuel. If a vehicle that is engineered to run on 87 octane is fed a steady diet of 91 the plugs will be darker than they should be because the engine is running too cool. Carbon in that case will build up on every thing. Not good. An engine that is designed to run on 87 will produce less power running premium than regular. Octane is simply in there to slow the burn down. Higher the octane the slower the burn. The spark plug fires before the piston reaches the top. In a higher compression engine running to low of octane the fuel kerrnal igniters too soon trying to send the piston back down before it reaches the top. These setups also usually have a higher degree of spark advance built into the design to start with. Thus the need for the higher octane. To slow the burn. Without it you get the pinging which is the piston trying to go backwards.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-07-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I was thinking one of the injectors was not firing fully or maybe not firing the right spray. Took it out for a short ride and now the slave cylinder started to leak. I did put regular fuel in the other night. If the weather clears up tomorrow I hope to run it down the highway again.
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