17/43, 17/45 or 17/46 - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #11 of 27 Old 06-11-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Big Boy View Post
Remember - If you deviate from the stock set-up you'll need to correct your speedo.
Thanks, I was planning on getting one from AdventureTech but I wanted to wait and see what your advice was as far as gear ratios goes.

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post #12 of 27 Old 06-11-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
I went with 17/43.

No idea what chain length my bike is wearing. I've always found the best pricing on 120 link chains, so that's what I order. Then I cut off the unneeded links after testing length on the bike.
I don't have the tools to cut a chain to size so I figured I'd just order the correct length.

From my reading, if I switch to a 17/43, the stock chain is to small and I'll need a 114 link chain. Is that correct? I want to ensure I order the correct size.

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post #13 of 27 Old 06-11-2019, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreconstructed View Post
I don't have the tools to cut a chain to size so I figured I'd just order the correct length.

From my reading, if I switch to a 17/43, the stock chain is to small and I'll need a 114 link chain. Is that correct? I want to ensure I order the correct size.
does that mean you're gonna go with a screw type master link? you can get a cheap chain tool.

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post #14 of 27 Old 06-12-2019, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Unreconstructed View Post
I don't have the tools to cut a chain to size so I figured I'd just order the correct length.

From my reading, if I switch to a 17/43, the stock chain is to small and I'll need a 114 link chain. Is that correct? I want to ensure I order the correct size.
All you need is a grinder to remove links. Even a dremel will work. Maybe you have one of those? Or a friend who does? It takes literally 30 seconds.

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post #15 of 27 Old 06-12-2019, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by larolco View Post
All you need is a grinder to remove links.
I've never done this before. I was going to use a grinder to take off the old chain. I thought that if i bought a 114 link chain, it would come with a master link and not connected. So all I would have to do is put it on and install the master link.
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post #16 of 27 Old 06-12-2019, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Unreconstructed View Post
I've never done this before. I was going to use a grinder to take off the old chain. I thought that if i bought a 114 link chain, it would come with a master link and not connected. So all I would have to do is put it on and install the master link.
In case you were wondering, you should NEVER use a clip-style master link on a streetbike, let alone a literbike. Most chain manufacturers don't even offer clip master links for their 530 chains and most 525.

Your chain will come with a "rivet" style master link. You will need a chain rivet press tool that slightly expands the outer part of the master link pins.

EK does sell a nifty master link for some of their chains that does not require a tool; these have a little 8mm nut on the outer end of the pins. You tighten the nut until it deforms the pin and snaps off. (And no, you can't mix brands or chain types.)

And yeah, there's never a reason in 2019 to use a chain tool to push out pins on a streetbike's o-ring or x-ring chain. Modern chains are a lot tougher and the tool's pin will break almost every time before the pin moves. Some people are stuck in the 60s... just whack the chain in two through the middle of a link with a cutting wheel. It's also important to remember that 99.999% of the time there's never any reason to remove a streetbike chain until it's worn out and being replaced. The days of removing a chain to soak it are looooooong past. Install, rivet, and you're done for 30,000+ miles. Simple.

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post #17 of 27 Old 06-12-2019, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
In case you were wondering, you should NEVER use a clip-style master link on a streetbike, let alone a literbike. Most chain manufacturers don't even offer clip master links for their 530 chains and most 525.

Your chain will come with a "rivet" style master link. You will need a chain rivet press tool that slightly expands the outer part of the master link pins.

EK does sell a nifty master link for some of their chains that does not require a tool; these have a little 8mm nut on the outer end of the pins. You tighten the nut until it deforms the pin and snaps off. (And no, you can't mix brands or chain types.)

And yeah, there's never a reason in 2019 to use a chain tool to push out pins on a streetbike's o-ring or x-ring chain. Modern chains are a lot tougher and the tool's pin will break almost every time before the pin moves. Some people are stuck in the 60s... just whack the chain in two through the middle of a link with a cutting wheel. It's also important to remember that 99.999% of the time there's never any reason to remove a streetbike chain until it's worn out and being replaced. The days of removing a chain to soak it are looooooong past. Install, rivet, and you're done for 30,000+ miles. Simple.
Thanks for your help. I have a better idea of what to do now.
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post #18 of 27 Old 06-13-2019, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
just whack the chain in two through the middle of a link with a cutting wheel.
All I do is grind off the rivet heads and push the pins through when cutting a new chain to length. Doesn't really matter what technique you use to remove the old chain.

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post #19 of 27 Old 06-14-2019, 09:48 AM
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I used the 17/43 for years and liked it. I mostly ride two-up and bags loaded using highway going to and from the mountains.
My last episode with sprocket change was an experience (long story) but ended up going with a 42 rear due to the amount of highway I was planning on doing in the future. Ultimately I will probably go back to the 43.

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post #20 of 27 Old 06-18-2019, 10:33 PM
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I ride with camping gear most of the time and I'm 260 pounds. The 17/43 sprockets made a nice difference. In 6th gear I can pull mild mountains nicely when fully loaded at 65 mph. It makes 6th gear useful, don't have to shift down constantly in the hills. Then I added the Gman TRE and 5th/6th gear was much stronger, more improvement than I expected. I don't think I would want more than the 17/43 combo, 5th gear is pretty good at 55 to 64 mph now. I like to cruise around 4,000 rpm, 17/43 works great at keeping me in the 3500 to 4500 rpm sweet spot. Bike vibrates more around 5,000 on the highway.

I've cut my own chains in the past. But, lately I've been using the Sprocket Center cut to order deal. I would highly recommend doing the 530 chain upgrade.

I run this CS: https://sprocketcenter.com/superlite...oem-style.html

Here is the JT 530 rear sprocket, I like my 43: https://sprocketcenter.com/jt-1800-5...-sprocket.html

And what ever your favorite chain is. I've run mostly clip type masters on the DL1000, but last time I went with the screw type master link and its been fine. No issues with it, no tight links either. I've been very happy with the MVXZ type chains from EK. I went with the chrome finish and its easy to keep clean, very rust resistant. Much better than the natural finish EK I had before. I think its over 3 years old now, zero stretch, no stiff links at all. Its been a great improvement over my other two o-ring chains.

Chain type I'm running: https://sprocketcenter.com/motorcycl...-9-colors.html

And here is the screw master link, it makes the install easy peasy: https://sprocketcenter.com/ek-chain-...crew-link.html

Not the cheap route, but I was sick of early 525 chain failures. I've had good success with the above.

Last edited by Sagebrush; 06-19-2019 at 04:35 PM. Reason: 17/43 not 17/42
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