DL100 Ignition Switch Security Bolt Removal - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #1 of 7 Old 04-27-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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DL100 Ignition Switch Security Bolt Removal

Anybody out there know what tool I need to remove the two security bolts that hold the ignition switch mounted? I have to replace the ignition switch. Some ass hat tried to steal my DL by cutting all of the wires coming out of the ignition switch and I have a ride coming up Wednesday.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 7 Old 04-27-2019, 04:32 PM
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Its a security bit. Take a good look at it, I can't remember if its an allen or torx (with a hole in the center), metric. Once you determined which one it is, get a set, useful to have. Also needed to adjust the TPS.

....
Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A
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post #3 of 7 Old 04-27-2019, 05:35 PM
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Seeing as how the OP didnt post the year or model of his motorcycle , I can only go by what's holding the ignition switch in my '14 DL1K
These are Tear-off bolts, that are installed and tightened until the bold heads shear off leaving a cone-shaped nub.
Ive dealt with them for years in cars and motorcycles, and these are some of my procedures:
1)Use a small center punch on the side of the cone and spin the bolt out far enough to remove with your fingers.
2) Drill 3/16" hole in the center of the cone and use an Easy-Out to remove the bolt.

It's best to use new Tear-off bolts to install the switch. If unavailable Ive reinstalled them with blue loctite and tightened them using the center punch and hammer method. Is some cases, if there is enough room, you can replace the tear-off bolts with metric Allen bolts or Tamper-proof Torx bolts.
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post #4 of 7 Old 04-27-2019, 08:28 PM
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Eric, its a Torx security bit. I assume 6 mm but did not verify. Get a set and it will be included. To confirm just take a mechanics mirror and a flashlight and look, you will see. Its # 3 in the parts list below.

They are attached with red threadlocker and hard to brake open. Counterintuitive, but it's easier to break the threadlocker by attempting to tighten, until it just moves, then loosen. Threads are designed to have a higher torque to loosen then to tighten; a basic safety feature to prevent fasteners to come off.

Once off the lock cylinder can be separated with 2 additional screws from the switch part.

AND add info about your bike and where you are so everybody better understands what's going on and you get better comments.

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....
Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A

Last edited by blaustrom; 04-27-2019 at 08:30 PM.
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post #5 of 7 Old 04-28-2019, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
Snipped.....Threads are designed to have a higher torque to loosen then to tighten; a basic safety feature to prevent fasteners to come off.
You have intrigued me with this statement. I am in the same occupation as you and have never heard or read this.

I do know that lock washers will make this happen and so will any corrosion and/or oxidation effects on threads. But for a threaded fastener with only a smooth washer or no washer under the head, in the newly installed condition, this is new information to me.

But hey, I learn something new every day

I may need to visit the bat cave and try this out on a fastener.
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"If its not broke yet, it can still be fixed"

Last edited by STCorndog; 04-28-2019 at 01:07 AM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 04-28-2019, 01:16 AM
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Was one of the pet topics of our "machine engineering components" professor at college. Hope he got it right. I never verified it but I use the method and so far seems to be working.
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Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-28-2019, 03:34 PM
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When Ive had to remove fasteners that have been loctited, I heat up the bolt/screw with a soldering iron. It may take 5 to 10 minutes of solid use, but once the loctite melts, the bolt has always come out for me.
One of my earlier posts someone complained that they couldnt get the clutch switch screw out of the switch pod, and finally broke the screw off in the housing. Ive been there, but always used the soldering iron method, never had a problem.
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