When riding, don't worry too much about your actual speed - except for making sure you don't exceed the posted limit. It's the RPM counter that is your best friend.
Engine performance is related to RPMs. This is a two-cylinder bike that needs to rev considerably more than your four or six cylinder car. Heck, even idle is relatively high at 1300 RPM or so. (Four cylinder car engines idle at 900 RPM or so.)
For best torque and spirited response you will want to be in the 4000 to 7000 RPM band. When cruising along, you can go up in the gears to lower the RPMs, but between 2500 and 3000 it won't have any power excess (so you can't really accelerate) and below about 2500 it just bogs down. So when you're cruising along at, say 2700 RPM, and you want to accelerate for some reason, first drop a gear or two.
For best fuel economy, when cruising along select the highest gear possible, but don't let the RPM get below about 2500.
As far as the speedo and odo meter correction is concerned, this depends on the bike. There may be exceptions but as far as I understand, on non-ABS bikes both the speedo and odometer get their input from a sensor on the front sprocket. So going to a different front/rear sprocket combination has an impact on odo/speedo, but you will only notice this when you calibrate the odo/speedo against an independent speed source such as a GPS. On ABS-equipped bikes the odo/speedo gets its input from the ABS rotor on the front wheel. So it's independent of what you do to the front/rear sprocket.
Last edited by BackPacker; 03-26-2019 at 07:34 AM.