oh no, not another Vee coolant drip thread! - Page 4 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #31 of 70 Old 06-18-2019, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertBike View Post
Clutch slave is just dandy. Amazingly I have managed not to break it, put it back on crooked, or forget the supporting sleeve on the one bolt (upper?) in the last several removals & replacements.
Yeah forgetting the sleave/spacer was why I broke my first one.

You seemed unsure if the coolant drip was actually coolant. With it coming from the left side I wondered if it might be fluid from a leaky slave cylinder.

..Tom

My Opinion:
Vee or V= DL1000 before 2014
Vee2 or V2 = DL1000 2015 to 2019
Vee3 or V3 = DL1050 2020 to?

My Stroms:
2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 205,000+ km, 127,000+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
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post #32 of 70 Old 06-18-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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No that was definitely coolant.

It would be just about impossible for brake fluid to get up in the vee of the engine & drip down. Also it smells different.

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post #33 of 70 Old 07-01-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh, I was STILL getting some drips despite the RTV.

I applied more RTV. Seems to have stopped the drips again, at least temporarily.

It's possible that while I've stopped leakage through the bottom seam of the thermostat housing, the coolant is just leaking out of the top seam instead. I couldn't get RTV up there without smearing it all over lots of other stuff & making a huge mess, so I didn't try.

I now have some different RTV, designed specifically for coolant system sealing. The next time I have the tank and airbox off, I'll clean off the gray RTV & put a bead of the "water pump" RTV between the thermostat housing halves.

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post #34 of 70 Old 08-16-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well, that didn't last long. Got a nice half-or-so ounce of coolant on the ground when I stopped a few minutes into my morning commute.

Going to move some stuff out of the way, drain coolant and seal that housing up properly this weekend. I'll make a gasket with Permatex Water Pump RTV, since the gasket built into the thermostat isn't doing the job.

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post #35 of 70 Old 08-19-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got to it over the weekend.

Nearly all of the old RTV peeled off the T-stat housing easily. Not surprising I still had a leak. There's no way to get a proper seal by applying RTV from the outside. It has to get sandwiched between the metal faces of the housing halves.

Water pump RTV applied, thermostat reinstalled, housing bolted back on, radiator pipe reattached, then 24 hours to cure before refilling coolant.

The next day, coolant went back in, then a test run up to 3 bars on the temperature gage. No leaking so far, but a test ride will tell the tale for sure.

In the service manual, I noticed that the thermostat jiggle valve (little sheetmetal thingy near the rubber gasket) is supposed to be at the top, or 12 o'clock position. Not sure how I had it before, or how it was oriented when I swapped the thermostat several months ago. Could incorrect position somehow have caused the leaking? Seems unlikely - but hard to be sure.

Here's more info than you ever wanted to know about thermostats, including jiggle valves:

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/some-like-it-hot/

Stant states the purpose of the jiggle valve is to faciliate purging of air from the system:

Stant
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post #36 of 70 Old 08-20-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Test ride yesterday showed no evidence of leaking. But, I thought that before - won't know for sure until I have several commutes done. Typically, the leaking was most evident in my morning commute.

I am not a fan of the service manual's method for purging air after a coolant change/refill. I cannot physically manage to both rock the bike back and forth, AND tap on the thermostat housing. At least not safely, working solo. What's worked for me is a series of short rides. Once I shut down, the cooling system will then expel air and suck down whatever's in the reservoir tank. Repeat and refill until the level in the tank doesn't change.
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post #37 of 70 Old 08-21-2019, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Another two commutes down, no evidence of leakage.

Usually I could smell the hot coolant, even if I couldn't see it dripping. No smell, no streaks of dried coolant on the engine case after I got home, fingers crossed!
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post #38 of 70 Old 09-09-2019, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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That didn't last long. Stupid thermostat housing started leaking again. Somehow, I missed tightening the housing bolts, or they worked loose on their own. Dunno how that happened. Could swear I tightened them.

I expect leakage resumed because the RTV isn't enough, on its own, to seal the thermostat housing. The housing has to be clamped together pretty tightly. RTV will only seal tiny, nearly invisble gaps where metal touches metal. The mating surfaces are machined pretty smooth, and you would think the rubber gasket on the thermostat itself would fill any gaps, but obviously not.

I re-did the whole job. Was super careful to get all surfaces clean, & let the RTV cure more than 24 hours before tightening bolts down. I'll be checking whether they are somehow loosening on their own & applying Loctite if required. No drips so far, fingers crossed (again!).

Worst part of the deal is having to drain and later refill coolant (and purge air). There's no neat way to do the draining.

I think I worked out what was happening in the first place. Coolant was leaking from the thermostat housing during "bypass" time, between start of a cold engine, and when it got hot enough to make the thermostat open. Leaks wouldn't happen at idle, but revving the engine raised coolant pressure enough to cause drips.

Also: once the engine is at operating temp (thermostat open) could be the metal of the housing expands enough to seal better. I've never seen evidence of leakage when the engine is already hot.

During my morning commute, coolant would drip for the first few minutes as I accelerated, but the thermostat hadn't yet opened.

Really hope this is now fixed for good. Don't know what else I can do.

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Last edited by DesertBike; 09-09-2019 at 01:36 PM.
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post #39 of 70 Old 09-11-2019, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Man, dunno how I missed this but apparently my problem may indicate a waterpump rebuild, or at least impeller replacement:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/mainten...nt-leak-2.html

Joke's on Suzuki this time, because I ordered all the parts for a waterpump refresh about a year ago. Gasket, impeller, you name it, I've got all the fresh bits.

Of course, draining (and later refilling and getting air out) the coolant yet AGAIN will be a pain in the ass, but, whatever, I've got plenty of replacement coolant, and I'd rather fix 'er right.
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post #40 of 70 Old 09-16-2019, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yet again, I find Black Lab Adventures did this job (on a DL650 though) several years ago, and am using the excellent writeup as a guide:

https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...he-water-pump/

First thing I had to do was, drain engine oil and coolant.

It was time for an oil change anyway, luckily. Got the old oil drained, filter swapped, oil drain plug reinstalled. Just have to remember to refill oil at the end.

Draining coolant was, as always, a messy pain in the butt. There's simply no way to drain coolant completely. You'll always have some "ullage" that falls out when you remove the water pump cover.

I got as far as removing the crankcase cover last night.


Some notable differences between my 2007 DL1000 and Barry's DL650:

-there is a large metal wall, aka "Oil Separator," attached to the inside of the crankcase cover. I suppose it keeps oil from splashing too much on the bearings & seals that keep oil away from the coolant system, and vice versa.

-This oil separator is held in by 4 large Philips-head screws. For some reason, mine were stuck HARD. I got exactly one of them to turn with just a screwdriver.

Tried an impact wrench, need a better Phillips-head bit. One screw hread is now a little boogered up. I'm going to replace all four screws with hex-heads. Purchasing a broken screw extractor, just in case.

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