Front Cylinder Head Gushing Coolant - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #11 of 136 Old 10-30-2018, 02:18 PM
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Larolco, I've mentioned this in another thread, but if you clean the area with spray Brake Cleaner, blow it off with compressed air, and borrow a cooling system pressure tester(auto parts store) you will know for certain the exact origin of the leak.
If you do have to tear it down and are concerned with corroded exhaust nuts/studs, soak them down for a couple of days with a penetrating oil such as PB Blast, Zepreserve, or the best Ive found, Yield. Beyond that, a small Map gas torch flame to get the nuts red will do the deed.
A small suggestion, if you have the wherewithal--perform a compression test and/or a leakdown test before you remove the engine. If both check out good, you wont need to re-ring and hone the engine. If rings arent necessary, Ive raised cylinders above the pistons just far enough to remove the piston pin clip, the wrist pin, and removed the cylinder with the piston still inside. It takes another set of hands to make this easy, and reassembly is simply replace the base gasket,use shop towels to keep the connecting rod centered in the crankcase bore, hold the cylinder/piston assembly above the rod, reinstall the wrist pin and circlip. Slide the cylinder down to the base gasket and proceed with reassembly.
It's just nuts and bolts, how hard can it be?
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Last edited by MAZ4ME; 10-30-2018 at 04:21 PM.
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post #12 of 136 Old 10-30-2018, 03:04 PM
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Not be make lite of your situation, but this sounds like something I saw on a ZZ-Top video!

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post #13 of 136 Old 10-30-2018, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BSSTROM View Post
Not be make lite of your situation, but this sounds like something I saw on a ZZ-Top video!
I have a ZZ-Top poster hanging in my shop. Coincidence?

DL1000K6 Two wheels good; four wheels bad.
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post #14 of 136 Old 10-30-2018, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
Larolco, I've mentioned this in another thread, but if you clean the area with spray Brake Cleaner, blow it off with compressed air, and borrow a cooling system pressure tester(auto parts store) you will know for certain the exact origin of the leak.
If you do have to tear it down and are concerned with corroded exhaust nuts/studs, soak them down for a couple of days with a penetrating oil such as PB Blast, Zepreserve, or the best Ive found, Yield. Beyond that, a small Map gas torch flame to get the nuts red will do the deed.
A small suggestion, if you have the wherewithal--perform a compression test and/or a leakdown test before you remove the engine. If both check out good, you wont need to re-ring and hone the engine. If rings arent necessary, Ive raised cylinders above the pistons just far enough to remove the piston pin clip, the wrist pin, and removed the cylinder with the piston still inside. It takes another set of hands to make this easy, and reassembly is simply replace the base gasket,use shop towels to keep the connecting rod centered in the crankcase bore, hold the cylinder/piston assembly above the rod, reinstall the wrist pin and circlip. Slide the cylinder down to the base gasket and proceed with reassembly.
It's just nuts and bolts, how hard can it be?
Thanks for the tip re: cylinder removal. I like that idea.

As for penetrating oil, I intend to use a can or two on this job. I hate breaking bolts. This weekend is just remove tupperware, tank, rad, and let the oil penetrate for a good long while. I'll probably do a couple other jobs on the bike while it's apart as well. Fork springs, front rotors, new TPS.

As for finding the leak, it won't be a problem. I just have to fire it up and watch where the gush comes from. I'm fairly certain it's the base gasket based on what I saw last night. It was the only wet area on the bike, and definitely towards the left side. It's not a weep; it's a considerable leak that drained a couple of cups of coolant in the time it took me to put the bike on the sidestand and dismount. Just have to replicate it once more.

I don't intend to bother with a compression test unless maybe just for kicks. I'm certain it doesn't need rings. New plugs for sure, though. You'll be pleased to hear that.

And valve clearances and look at the cam chain. I think if all looks well on the front cylinder, I won't bother with the rear.

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post #15 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 01:31 AM
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Sounds like a winning plan!
Make sure you have a shop manual with torque specs, an accurate 3/8" torque wrench....and you know the rest, I'm sure.
I generally do a couple of heat cycles, back off the stud nuts 1/4 turn and re-torque them.
If you have a straightedge, place it between cylinder stud bores and measure for warp between them. I use a hand-held Scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner to clean up gasket surfaces. ANYTHING you can do to ensure a 1-time repair will be in your favor.
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post #16 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Got a PM from bluewater who thinks there may be no cooling passages at that gasket. Now that's got me thinking...

We'll know for sure this weekend.

DL1000K6 Two wheels good; four wheels bad.
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post #17 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 12:46 PM
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Woohoo new bike time!!!
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post #18 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Woohoo new bike time!!!
I'm definitely thinking about it. Two problems: Don't know what bike I want and the bike fund is not yet sufficiently grown. And this repair is going to eat into the fund.

I like the versatility of the Vee, but now with the DRZ in the stable, maybe I just want something for the street. Has to be touring capable, have some giddy-up, be capable of running a full complement of heated gear, and tote around my hockey bag/stick. I do like the look of that VRF Crosstourer but insurance rates here are ridiculously high and tied to engine displacement. It's way cheaper to insure a 650 than a 1200.
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post #19 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 02:59 PM
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You have had your clutch cover off...the two holes surrounded by black sealant on the clutch cover gasket are where the water pump pushes coolant into the front and rear cylinders. It goes up the cylinders and into the heads then to the thermostat/manifold and back to the radiator.

You can see the coolant passage in the cylinder base gasket in the link I provided earlier. Not the large opening for the cam chain, but the smaller odd shaped one opposite the cam chain opening is the coolant passage.

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post #20 of 136 Old 10-31-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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I figured that must be the case. The coolant has to get to the pump somehow.

Chomping at the bit to get this thing apart but can't get at it until Saturday...

DL1000K6 Two wheels good; four wheels bad.
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