Low miles but ageing DL - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #11 of 28 Old 10-24-2018, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dwt View Post
.. Any recommendation for shop manuals? Should I just go right to the Suzuki books from the dealer?

I struggle to describe “Grabby” front brakes. ... It's like if I try to pull the lever smoothly, the lever will jump in little increments, like it’s getting stuck at some point and then breaks free. ....
You need to lube the brake lever and the contact with the MC piston pin.

Whilest you are at it also lube the clutch lever pivot.

Service Manual: Watch here (or maybe e-bay). They come up for sale every now and then. If you can't wait then you need to buy an OEM service manual.

And for heavens sake change those tires.

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Last edited by blaustrom; 10-25-2018 at 10:31 AM.
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post #12 of 28 Old 10-25-2018, 02:40 AM
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In addition to changing all fluids and lubricating all lubrication points, I'd also take a good look at the chain. If the bike has been sitting still for a long while, your O-rings might also have deteriorated and may disappear as soon as you start riding it.

At the next service, also do a fuel flow test as detailed in the manual. If there was crud in the fuel (maybe from sitting too long), your fuel filter inside the pump may have clogged. There's a mod that allows you to bypass the internal filter, and install an external filter in place. A lot cheaper than buying a new pump: The filter is integral to the pump and cannot be changed independently.

Take off the front sprocket cover and clean the inside. There's usually a mess in here, especially if you or the PO overlubed the chain.
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post #13 of 28 Old 10-25-2018, 07:47 PM
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Check the rubber cushions in the rear hub. If there loose, you need to replace or shim them.
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post #14 of 28 Old 10-25-2018, 08:08 PM
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Check your stator voltage (search the forum); if it isn't up to snuff, then the next time you change the oil you should pop the left side cover off (you'll probably need a new gasket) and check to see if the rotor magnets have moved (search the forum). If they have, jb weld them back into place. If they haven't...jb weld them in place now!

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post #15 of 28 Old 10-26-2018, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by WildDoktor View Post
Check your stator voltage (search the forum); if it isn't up to snuff, then the next time you change the oil you should pop the left side cover off (you'll probably need a new gasket) and check to see if the rotor magnets have moved (search the forum). If they have, jb weld them back into place. If they haven't...jb weld them in place now!
Put a dam of JB between each magnet. Then, if they come loose again, they'll still stay spaced and continue to produce electrical charge.
There was a full service manual for free online. You might be able to dig it up.
I too have an '06 and the fuel line on the FI leaked on mine too. Watch out for that. That and the magnets have been my only issues in 35k miles.

'06 DL 1000
'06 Bonneville T100
'01 Honda VTR1000
'09 Kawasaki KLX250
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post #16 of 28 Old 10-26-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Sagebrush View Post
Pull the fuel tank and check for leaks, cracked hoses etc. I have a 2006 DL1000 and I've had to replace the fuel hose between the fuel injectors. It's a pain to mess with, but its important.
I had to change that same hose on my K6 Vee with 15,000 miles. The previous owner used the wrong clamps (shown) and it would leak intermittently. It now has about 1 1/2 " of fuel injection hose with fuel injection clamps. I also changed the chain and sprockets, flushed the clutch and brake lines, but other than that it's been a great bike. I may check the valves over the winter.
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Last edited by BigBlue505; 10-26-2018 at 08:15 AM. Reason: Punctuation
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post #17 of 28 Old 10-26-2018, 04:06 PM
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Valves are not that hard, the twin is fairly easy. Just don't put the rear cam in wrong. The directions on the forum makes it easy.

When I replaced my fuel line I used the right stuff and it hasn't leaked a drop. Fuel injection hose is sold with the correct clamps at my local parts store. Didn't have to ask, the guy got the right clamps without hesitation.

When I had it all apart I checked every electrical connector and some were corroded and needed clean up and silicone grease. One connection had started melting in the headlight circuit, I had to rewire it. I was putting in headlight relays anyway, so I'm glad I caught it before it failed! I put a blue seas auxiliary fuse block under the seat. I run the headlights, two gps units, the power commander, auxiliary charging ports, voltage meter, heated clothes and etc off that.

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Last edited by Sagebrush; 10-26-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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post #18 of 28 Old 10-26-2018, 06:20 PM
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I will answer a question first....no you do not resurface motorcycle discs, they are not thick enough.

I am a slacker...I will admit it. The bike has 12,000 miles. I would do the following first:

1) Tires.
2) Check chain and sprockets, expect the sprockets to be fine.
3) Probably throw iridium plugs in it so I could forget them for another 50,000 miles.
4) Verify air filter condition. 20,000 miles between changes on the street is fine.
5) Check battery.
6) Ride it.

-Brake fluid dark, might change it.
-Coolant I change based on pH testing not time or mileage. On an aluminum engine coolant lasts a long time.
-Brakes grabby, I would do a few moderate speed, careful, but hard, brake applications on a dry road to clean the shoes and disc off, OEM brakes are quality pieces.
-If the brakes drag and make noise when I spun the wheel with the bike on a stand, I would consider lubing the caliper pins.
-Valves, around 25,000 miles and expect them to be near the tight end of spec on the exhaust. If they are, leave them alone unless you are mechanically inclined. If a shop does this service, have them set the valves with intakes mid range and exhaust on the upper end of range.
-Hoses, when they leak only. The injector rail hose does leak often, but you will smell gas on cold start up.

I am not into fixing stuff until it needs it.

"If its not broke yet, it can still be fixed"

Last edited by STCorndog; 10-26-2018 at 06:22 PM.
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post #19 of 28 Old 10-27-2018, 12:15 AM
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Tire replacement is a must. A brake fluid change would be prudent as well. If pads donít solve your brake grabbing issue you should consider cleaning and re-sealing the calipers. A dirty or corroded piston or piston bore could contribute to your problem. In addition, a detailed visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike will do an excellent job of uncovering any issues specific to your machine.
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post #20 of 28 Old 10-29-2018, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the suggestions. If nothing else, there's some things to keep an eye one. I just changed the oil and filter, but next time I'll be having a look at the rotor magnets.

So I had new tires mounted over the weekend. I'm on a budget so I went with the Shinko 705 front and back. The difference is amazing, and much more drastic than I was expecting. It completely changed the bike. It's not just that it rides better, it feels completely different. I don't have much experience with street bikes, so I'm guessing the old tires were much worse than I had imagined. It took a bit to get use to it. Now it seems like the bike wants to straighten up much more quickly, especially when I accelerate and just feels more responsive in general.

The tech I went to gave it a once over and other than a little rust on the chain, said it looks good. I'm guessing he adjusted and or lubed the breaks because they feel much better as well, specifically the front.

Looking forward to many more miles.
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