Rotor Magnets went boom - long term prognosis? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-08-2018, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Rotor Magnets went boom - long term prognosis?

*** Short Version ***

Magnetic grit is inside of my engine.

Grit may damage main bearings, trans bearings, and cylinder walls.

Have others who have fixed this issue suffered from short engine life?




*** Long Version ***

A magnet came off the flywheel and now my engine is full of magnetic grit.

Trying to decide to fix or part out.

2003 DL1000, 40k miles, and salvage title. Worth about $1200 if running properly. Repair will cost $610 (new parts) or est ~$250 used parts (but there aren't any undamaged rotors on ebay right now).


Problem:

I've tried to clean it but there are ground up magnetic bits stuck to the crank and every other steel part in the lower end.

My concern is that the grit will cause accelerated wear, especially cylinder scoring, main bearings, and trans bearings.


Question:

Who else has fixed their bikes after a magnet shredded itself? How many miles have you put on the bike since the repair?

Thanks.



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post #2 of 14 Old 07-08-2018, 04:09 PM
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Zow, heard about shifted magnets but not shredded. Good luck.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-08-2018, 05:08 PM
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oh no

I'd have a hunch that the fragments should mostly be in the oil pan, right under the rotor, or stuck to the rotor itself.

This is a tough call. I guess if you do get the parts to repair, you can drain the oil & take a look, with the old rotor off, to see how far magnet fragments have migrated.

Fingers crossed, the pieces will be too large to make it through the oil screen and filter, so shouldn't get into the main bearings or plug any lubrication galleries.

I'm guessing things were this way for some time before you opened her up to have a look. It might be instructive to drain the oil, take off the oil filter, and cut it in half to see if there are any magnet bits in the filter media.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-08-2018, 06:14 PM
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Prognosis bad. With salvage title and worth only $1200 running I would part it out or sell as-is, sorry.

It seems impossible to get that grit out without complete disassembly. Moreover, with magnetic grit its probably not going to sit nicely at the bottom of the oil sump where it will do little harm but will probably migrate to the top-end, transmission gears, crank, etc. where it will damage something critical in short order. If it was normal grit then maybe it could be cleaned as best you can reach then get the remaining through short-mileage oil changes. Since the grit is magnetic I don't think much is going to come out with the oil as it will stick to steel components as you have already seen. Pull a valve cover and see if there is any magnetic grit in the top end, if so then that motor is DOA. There may be hope if the top end is clean but I don't think I could ever trust the motor knowing there is grit rolling around inside.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 07:57 AM
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There have been a number of DL 1000 and SV 1000 owners that have had the magnets come apart. I follow this stuff closely and have yet to hear of a problem with an engine after this. While it looks like it would be absolutely terminal, the fact is that the magnet parts don't circulate in the oil circuit as the oil filter eliminates that. The big chunks simply lay in the sump. Could there still be damage done? Certainly, but there just does not seem to be any facts to back up replacing an engine over it.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 02:36 PM
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I admit that you could be right; clean it up and run it and it will be fine. Checking the top end for magnet pieces would be an easy test that would provide the facts necessary to make a more informed decision. At least it could provide some evidence that the bits are not circulating outside the oil/sump system before proceeding with this plan.

But the other half of my advice is that we are talking about a 15 year old bike with a salvage title and market value of $1200 if it were running. I just don't think the risk/reward ratio is there. If it was a newer bike then it probably makes sense. OP is probably looking at $300-$400 in parts, gaskets and extra filter and oil changes when all is said and done which is around 30% of the value of the bike with a non-zero chance of catastrophic failure putting you back to square one. If it was my bike I would cut my losses and get another bike (they are cheap) and I don't like sinking good $$ into a possibly lost cause.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 03:08 PM
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If it were mine, salvage or not, I would get it running properly. Put cheap oil in it. Not change the filter. Warm the bike up and immediately pull the oil plug after shutting it off. Replace filter. Put decent oil in it. Run it a 100 miles or so. Then change the oil and filter and run it like I normally would. If really anal pull the clutch cover, basket and pull the screen for the oil pump and clean it and the area inside there where you can get to. The magnet particles are actually not all that hard. Or heavy. I think you could flush a very high percentage of the material out. I have no concerns about bearings or cams, those are fed pressurized filtered oil. The transmission might get some material into it, but it can likely handle that without any real damage.

Again, there is just no history supporting actual engine damage to go from. That is based on a lot of failures I have heard about just like this.

Sometimes a few hundred is all a feller can scrape together!
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 03:59 PM
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If you decide to put it back together, I have a couple spare magnets I can send you to replace the destroyed ones.

Might want to figure out *why* they got destroyed; it may be that your stator is coming apart and a stray wire got caught up in there. I'm not sure how else something could get in there and do that kind of damage?
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildDoktor View Post
If you decide to put it back together, I have a couple spare magnets I can send you to replace the destroyed ones.

Might want to figure out *why* they got destroyed; it may be that your stator is coming apart and a stray wire got caught up in there. I'm not sure how else something could get in there and do that kind of damage?
Thank you very much for the offer, but all 6 magnets are damaged. One of them is still adhered to the rotor, but it's chipped up too.


> Might want to figure out *why* they got destroyed;

I can tell you EXACTLY why -- it happened when I bump started it down a hill. My guess is that they had already come loose but the bump starting was enough of a "kick" to send one flying.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-09-2018, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmfdmf View Post
@realshelby

I admit that you could be right; clean it up and run it and it will be fine. Checking the top end for magnet pieces would be an easy test that would provide the facts necessary to make a more informed decision. At least it could provide some evidence that the bits are not circulating outside the oil/sump system before proceeding with this plan.

But the other half of my advice is that we are talking about a 15 year old bike with a salvage title and market value of $1200 if it were running. I just don't think the risk/reward ratio is there. If it was a newer bike then it probably makes sense. OP is probably looking at $300-$400 in parts, gaskets and extra filter and oil changes when all is said and done which is around 30% of the value of the bike with a non-zero chance of catastrophic failure putting you back to square one. If it was my bike I would cut my losses and get another bike (they are cheap) and I don't like sinking good $$ into a possibly lost cause.
Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
If it were mine, salvage or not, I would get it running properly. Put cheap oil in it. Not change the filter. Warm the bike up and immediately pull the oil plug after shutting it off. Replace filter. Put decent oil in it. Run it a 100 miles or so. Then change the oil and filter and run it like I normally would. If really anal pull the clutch cover, basket and pull the screen for the oil pump and clean it and the area inside there where you can get to. The magnet particles are actually not all that hard. Or heavy. I think you could flush a very high percentage of the material out. I have no concerns about bearings or cams, those are fed pressurized filtered oil. The transmission might get some material into it, but it can likely handle that without any real damage.

Again, there is just no history supporting actual engine damage to go from. That is based on a lot of failures I have heard about just like this.

Sometimes a few hundred is all a feller can scrape together!

I completely agree that from a financial standpoint it makes zero sense - it's a worthless commuter bike.


* BUT *


It's a [email protected] good worthless commuter bike. Gold valves and a resprung fork, Realshelby clutch basket, hard luggage, and a decent windshield. It eats up miles like no bike I've ever owned. I also have an Africa Twin.... and for 90% of my riding the Vee is a better bike.


** BUT **


This is the same bike that has been a thorn in my side for the last 10 months:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-...orking-ok.html

Even if I replace the rotor and stator, I might be needing a R/R and/or an ECU. I've pretty much replaced EVERY other part on this bike already.


*** BUT ***


I've never been conquered by a mechanical issue before, on any vehicle whatsoever. If I part this thing out that's admitting defeat.


Decisions decisions...
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Last edited by mitchb; 07-09-2018 at 09:19 PM.
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