Stator magnets & JB Weld - pictures? - Page 8 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000 from 2002-2012 DL1000 from 2002-2012 (K2-L2)

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post #71 of 76 Old 02-18-2019, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aTuWitty View Post
So I'm gonna attempt to set the JB Weld tonight and I had a question- if I put masking tape across the top of the gap to stop the jb weld creeping out, will it tear away cleanly when the weld has set? I don't want to have to pick it all out. Any ideas?
There has been several guys put tape in there to seal the rear area and across the top in the back. Don't tape all the way across the gap, fill the back half with epoxy then put some more tape in across the magnets to cover the rest of the gap. Then fill that. Ideally you can allow the tape to sag ever so slightly. Either way, most owners are using a bit of sandpaper to clean off the bits of tape that stick and insure the epoxy is below the height of the magnet. Not hard to do at all with a Dremel tool!
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post #72 of 76 Old 02-18-2019, 10:08 AM
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FWIW, that's what it looked like when I did mine.


This is how it looked around a year later, when I had to replace a second factory stator.

I didn't fill the gaps - kinda wishing I had now! But it's held for just over 2 years, so I guess even a smaller amount of JB Weld will work.

Last edited by DesertBike; 02-18-2019 at 10:10 AM.
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post #73 of 76 Old 02-18-2019, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildDoktor View Post
This may be a bit paranoid, but...the first JB Weld I put between my magnets "went away". I've re-done it and let the stuff sit for at least a week now. Last night I took a screwdriver to it to see if it would budge. Can anybody tell me if it looks like I did it right this time? (Or wrong?)

https://youtu.be/cu3IKaEvXKg
It doesn't look hard enough to me. JB Weld when mixed and cured should be very hard and machineable.

2003 Zuki V-Strom 1000
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post #74 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 03:57 PM
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Well, I finally got around to doing this job for the THIRD time. I used 1/4" tile spacers (EXCELLENT idea, thank you!), masking tape between the magnets to stop the weld from creeping up the sides and I took care to make sure the tape was pushed in between the magnets so it didn't cause clearance issues. I have a few spots to sand down where I couldn't stop the creep.

Let me know what y'all think. The weld did trend toward the inside of the flywheel thanks to the magnets and as such it created a little hollow tube between each magnet.

I don't know how this will work, but I know that doing a small amount of weld has failed twice now and I'm so tired of it.
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Last edited by aTuWitty; 03-18-2019 at 04:01 PM.
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post #75 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 04:08 PM
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The only two failures I know of using the JB Weld have one similarity. Both did not fill the rear part of the channel with epoxy. I think the oil is filling that area and then centrifugal force is acting to put a lot of pressure on the JB Weld that is in the front of the channel. I would fill the gap in the pictures all the way. I still don't think you have to fill the gap to the top, but equal height from from to back to keep the oil from puddling behind it.
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'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #76 of 76 Old 03-24-2019, 06:31 PM
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I had my magnets glued back on by a shop in Croatia in 2013.
Thy guy has done a lot of DL1000.
He uses 3M Scotch Weld 2214 and heats the whole thing for 100 minutes on 130C. He also balances the flywheel after that.
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the process or the machine he balances them on.
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