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sprocket change- can't get the big nut off!!! Help!!!

6K views 57 replies 25 participants last post by  stevet 
#1 ·
Swapping the 15t to a 16t. I've got the sprocket washer bent back away from the nut face, new Harbor Frieght 1/2 drive impact gun running is lefty-loosy mode, air pressure set at 90psi (max per gun, which claims to torque to 250 ft lbs), gun running in it's highest power setting (1-4, set on 4) and that darn nut will not even budge. Run and run and run and run...

Tranny is in neutral, but the wheel is held in place up off the ground (centerstand) by a block of of wood, so the tire isn't spinning at all.

Thoughts?

Tried the socket wrench version last night, not effective either.

Until I get some info, I'm heading for the lowering link install part of my day.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Hmmm. Got mine off with the same gun. Is it full on reverse mode? Sometimes if you don't get the lever all the way over, it won't get full power to the gun.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys, will recheck the gun direction lever (free spins counter clockwise) and will just set on center stand without the wood under the tire (between tire and floor). I'll report back.
 
#5 ·
Red Loctite is applied. Get out the torch. You need to heat it and use the impact wrench while still hot.
 
#7 ·
Air tools is something it pays not to skimp on. I've had harbor freight air tools and the ones I've had are a joke.

My 1/2" drive Chicago Pneumatic impact took that nut off like nobody's business, red loctite or not. My harbor freight cut-off wheel stops turning if it even thinks it's close to the work surface.

I think I paid around $100 for my impact, well worth it.
Heat- got it.

Well, my Chicago Pneumatic version cost me a whopping $19. Will try the heat tomorrow. If that doesn't do it, then I'll take it back and swap for another.
 
#6 ·
Air tools is something it pays not to skimp on. I've had harbor freight air tools and the ones I've had are a joke.

My 1/2" drive Chicago Pneumatic impact took that nut off like nobody's business, red loctite or not. My harbor freight cut-off wheel stops turning if it even thinks it's close to the work surface.

I think I paid around $100 for my impact, well worth it.
 
#8 ·
SteveT, I used the cheapest Lowe's Kobalt 1/2" drive impact wrench, but it was rated at 350 ft lbs. Tranny was in neutral, bike on centerstand, rear wheel chocked with a long piece of round stock between the spokes and resting on the swingarm. Mine was Red Locktite'd on, but the countersprocket nut spun right off when I pulled the trigger.

I hope you don't need heat, but if you do, be precise and wrench it while it's hot.
 
#9 ·
I've never done this myself, but a couple of comments:

1) I'd be careful with putting heat to that part - the countershaft seal may not care for it.

2) If this is the factory sprocket, it may have some threadlocker on it, but just because it's red doesn't mean it's red Loc-tite. The factory uses a threadlocker which is red but comparable to Loc-tite's blue stuff. It can be broken loose without using heat. Permanent threadlocker is usually only used on crucial engine internals.

Have you tried a big 'ol freakin' breaker bar on it?
 
#12 ·
A more powerful impact wrench is best. Heat is the alternative. The stuff used on the nut is the stronger kind.
 
#13 ·
Did not try heat, but the gun is working as well as it can... given what it is. I, too, am suddenly concerned about applying heat without knowing if I could adversely affect something on the other end of that shaft.

Tried a 1/2" breaker bar, but did not have a cheater pipe over it. I'm limited with what I have on hand to act as a brace across the swing arm through the wheel, the beefiest item I had that would clear the rear brake line and still sit on the right side of the swing arm was a 24mm box end wrench. Okay, pretty stout, a big wrench like that, as much beef or more than a piece of rebar. (I just remembered the piece of 3/4" o.d. black steel pipe in a corner of the basement...) The wrench was bending as I was applying my body weight onto the breaker bar. That breaker bar had to be a good 15" long, and I'm at 215 pounds myself, so I was laying some serious weight onto that breaker bar without budging the nut and bending the box end wrench in the process.

The right side of my swing arm does not allow for something larger to be put across without removing the rear brake caliper and brake line from their mounted position.

So, I'm concluding that either I need a better quality impact wrench, or something out of the ordinary came from the factory with that nut.

I need a impact wrench like I need a hole in the head. This is the first time I've ever needed one, and the thought of spending money on a worthy tool that I'll touch once every few years at best does not sit well. I guess I could look into renting one for an afternoon. Or rolling the bike to the dealer, tell him to loosen it, then reset it to the proper torque (assuming proper is less than what its got now), then ride home and try the job again.

I guess one thought I've got it- these sprockets engage on the shaft with splines, the splines do most of the work, the nut secures the sprocket to the shaft against lateral movement. I think I've seen this torque rating at something above 100 foot pounds. Why so high? Seems a lower torque on that nut would be just as effective. But I'm no engineer, what do I know?
 
#16 ·
I got an electric impact wrench - Home Depot Rigid R6300. With the bike on the center stand, the lock washer flattened, a good 32mm impact socket, stand on the right side of the bike, foot on the rear brake, lean over the seat, and take it off. It is a piece of cake.

Any excuse to buy a new tool is irresistable. Now I can do/undo anything. These wrenches are great for lag bolt work, trailer hitch balls, etc.

Forget the block of wood stuff and the "breaker bars" they are a waste of time and downright dangerous - too springy to break anything loose.
 
#17 ·
One of my torque wrenches has a 19" long handle. It takes the nut off with no problem. I think I paid less than $30 bucks (new price) for that wrench on ebay.

My wrench

I'm sure it's not the best quality, but for as little as I use it it's perfect for me.
 
#20 ·
One of my torque wrenches has a 19" long handle. It takes the nut off with no problem. I think I paid less than $30 bucks (new price) for that wrench on ebay.

My wrench

I'm sure it's not the best quality, but for as little as I use it it's perfect for me.
They sell that same torque wrench at Harbor Freight. They also have the 3/8" & 1/4"(inch/lbs) wrenches, too.

When I took my front sprocket nut off, I just put a pipe above the swingarm and through the spokes, then used a 1/2" breaker bar about the length of Dirt_Dad's torque wrench. Came right off.

Found the big socket at Menard's.
 
#18 ·
I got mine off with a standard length 3/4 inch drive socket wrench. I flattened the washer, put the wrench on the nut, straddled the bike with one foot on the rear brake and stepped on the wrench with my left foot. It popped right off with no real problems.
 
#21 ·
It's not a good idea to remove stuck fasteners with a click type torque wrench. The wrench can be damaged. My 24" breaker bar was under $10 from HF. That's the tool to use.
 
#22 ·
Well, took that heck of a deal $19 impact wrench back to HF today and swapped for a new one thinking maybe it's the tool. Na. New one wouldn't budge it either. Put a very small propane flame on the end of the shaft to gently warm the works hoping to soften the locktite material. No help there, either, but I didn't get it really hot either.

I put it all back together and I'll call the dealer and ask him how much to loosen that nut while the bike is strapped in the back of my trailer. I can just imagine.

Well, I guess I've got that one bike... Everything else is wonderful.
 
#25 ·
If you're going to go that route, any auto mechanics place can do it for you. Doesn't need to be a MC dealer. I can see a mechanic doing it for nothing if you drive up and explain it to them. Give the guy a few bucks for a Coke or something.
 
#23 ·
A big breaker bar, some heat and a friend to help you, and that should come right off.:confused: I wouldn't let the dealer do it.....don't give up yet. I know that the 650 is different than the 1k, but mine came off with no problem. It was snug, but a breaker bar and a buddy stepping on the rear brake....and it was no problemo.
 
#24 ·
sorry to ask this but which way are you turning the nut?
try clockwise for about 1/8th of a turn then counterclockwise, then clockwise again. if there's any blue locktite or equivalent on it it should come right off.

sometimes tightening a nut a bit helps loosen it...
i just unscrew mine by hand. if i have trouble, i use my torque wrench. put bike on sidestand, tranny in neutral, step on brake and on wrench with the other foot. never had a problem.
 
#26 ·
Well, about an hour after my last posting, I decided that this stupid nut wasn't going to get the best of me, especially when I'm the only one reporting difficulty removing the silly thing.

Back to Harbor Freight I went, in search of their longest 1/2" drive breaker bar. Found one, a 25" long bar, on sale for $9.00. Even better.

Got home and modified a piece of 3/4" black steel pipe to brace the back wheel, cutting a 1" long notch out of it of about 1/3 the circumference on one end of the pipe so the pipe could rest of the right side of the swing arm and clear the brake line.

Okay, here we go- HEAVE!!! A big counterclockwise push and there the nut goes, finally coming loose After that, it spun right off. No damaged threads on nut or shaft. Plenty of orange colored thread lock compound, though. Some good stuff!

Put on the new sprocket (hmmm, now that I'm thinking about it, I should have put a touch of anti-seize on those sprocket splines... oh, well, next time) with just a small drop of red Locktite for good measure. Tomorrow, piece-o-crap impact gun #2 goes back to HF. The breaker bar gets a special spot in the tool chest.

Thanks for all the help, Everyone!
 
#28 ·
Back to Harbor Freight I went, in search of their longest 1/2" drive breaker bar. Found one, a 25" long bar, on sale for $9.00. Even better.

Got home and modified a piece of 3/4" black steel pipe to brace the back wheel, cutting a 1" long notch out of it of about 1/3 the circumference on one end of the pipe so the pipe could rest of the right side of the swing arm and clear the brake line.

Okay, here we go- HEAVE!!! A big counterclockwise push and there the nut goes, finally coming loose After that, it spun right off. No damaged threads on nut or shaft. Plenty of orange colored thread lock compound, though.

The breaker bar gets a special spot in the tool chest.
Better watch out. All the Craftsman lovers will call you a commie pinko for buying at Harbor Freight. Doesn't that $9 twenty five inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight come with a lifetime warranty too?
 
#27 ·
I had the same experience as you and used the same method to resolve it. I didn't blame my impact wrench, I blamed Suzuki for thinking they needed that much red thread sealer on a nut that torques that high that uses a splined lock. The true torque necessary to break it lose far exceeds the torque applied from the factory.
 
#31 ·
If you need to try that new sprocket out come on up and try some of the Bemidji twisties :) Don't you just love it when a plan comes together.
Well, as you can see on the map below, the Bemidji area is yet to be highlighted as a trip taken on a motorcycle. That farthest northwest pink point is Purham/Ottertail. Then MN 210 across to Duluth. There is plenty of real estate waiting to get highlighted on my map.
 
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