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  #1  
Old 06-13-2012, 11:11 AM
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Question fork oil change

I've searched the forum a bit to get the basics down for myself. I plan to eventually upgrade to Sonic Springs in the front, but right now that $80 can buy me some other things I need more than want. That said, I do want to/need to change the fork oil in my 07 wee.

So my plan is to pull them out of the clamps, shouldn't be too difficult thanks to all the great threads and pictures on here, and then disassemble tubes as required. Let drain by pumping them and hanging them upside down for awhile. Then add 500mL to each tube, measure to see if it's ~150mm mark and adjust if necessary. Reassemble, set sag, and go. I also plan on raising the tubes in the clamps about 0.50" or 13mm. I also plan to put in 10w fork oil. Maybe BelRay or Maxima, which ever one I can find. Now I know that the oils are technically different, but I don't want to get started on that here, and since I'm sticking with stock springs for the time being, I'm not going to monkey around with oils that much.

Thank you all for your input!
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  #2  
Old 06-13-2012, 11:31 AM
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Loosen the top clamp pinch bolts then loosen the fork tops before taking the forks out. That will save you the time and trouble of putting them back in to take the tops off or worse, damaging the tubes trying to get the tops off.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:57 PM
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With the stock springs I'd run the oil level a little higher to help with bottoming. 135mm or so.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Loosen the top clamp pinch bolts then loosen the fork tops before taking the forks out. That will save you the time and trouble of putting them back in to take the tops off or worse, damaging the tubes trying to get the tops off.
thanks GW, i've already taken a mental note on that, seems to be common advice on the different threads about removing the fork tubes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RichDesmond View Post
With the stock springs I'd run the oil level a little higher to help with bottoming. 135mm or so.
thanks Rich, glad to hear it from the "spring" expert...i can't wait to be able to upgrade to your springs in the future...any comment on the weight? or is my use of 10 weight about right for the stock springs and parts? if it makes a difference i'm about 190 pounds geared to ride...
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassbronco_74 View Post
...thanks Rich, glad to hear it from the "spring" expert...i can't wait to be able to upgrade to your springs in the future...any comment on the weight? or is my use of 10 weight about right for the stock springs and parts? if it makes a difference i'm about 190 pounds geared to ride...
10w is fine.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:35 PM
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I do the task by the following steps.

With the motorcycle on its sidestand:

1- Back off all preload on the fork caps.

2- "Crack" the fork caps loose; Just Loose.

3 - Loosen both LOWER fork clamp bolts on both fork tubes.

4 - Loosen, and remove the brake lines on the left and right hand side.

6- Loosen, and remove the left and right fender bolts.

5 - Loosen, and remove the left and right brake calipers and hang them out of the way.

6- Loosen, and remove the speedometer sending cable.

7 - Loosen front axle pinch bolt. (This does not need to be removed.)

8 - "Crack" the front axle loose.

With the motorcycle now rolled up on its centerstand:

9- Raise the front end of the motorcycle, off of the floor, with a floor jack underneath the skidplate, or motor. Make sure that the rear wheel is touching the floor for a "Three Point" contact; both feet of the centerstand, and the rear wheel.

10- Remove the front axle and let the front wheel drop free.

11- Kneel in front of your bike, with one hand on the right fork tube, reach up and loosen the TOP fork clamp bolt. The fork tube will want to slide right out into your hand! Don't let it. Remove the front fender first before removing the fork tube.

12- Work one fork tube at a time. That's just my opinion though. For me, there are less parts to kick around with the tip of my shoe, and also less fork oil to spill too. And, I have done all of these things!

NOTES:

A- What I just described is a "Top Down" method of disassembling the front end of your motorcycle. Work from the top down, and once you are at the bottom, you will "catch" the fork tube coming out of the top fork clamp.

B- If you have a forkbrace installed, that has to be worked into the "Top Down" sequence too.

C- What I just described, I am doing from memory. My motorcycle is a little different then yours. But, the "method" is still the same; work from the top, down to the axle.

D- The idea of doing a lot of the "loosening" of bolts, while the motorcycle is on its sidestand is, it is safer. The "three point stance" of the bike is much larger, (the front wheel, the back wheel, and the sidestand are spread far apart.), when it is on its sidestand, then when it is up on the centerstand. Any "heavy wrenching" is being done when the bike is in its safest stance; on the sidestand.
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Last edited by Black Lab; 06-13-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassbronco_74 View Post
thanks Rich, glad to hear it from the "spring" expert...i can't wait to be able to upgrade to your springs in the future...any comment on the weight? or is my use of 10 weight about right for the stock springs and parts? if it makes a difference i'm about 190 pounds geared to ride...
For the sake of comparison, I weigh just a little less then you do, all geared up. I have the stock springs installed, and I have found that 15wt oil works best for me.

I found that, the 10wt oil let the springs rebound too fast for my riding tastes.

However, I also have modified Race Tech Emulators installed as well too. And, this could have an effect as to why I stepped up to heavier weighted oil.

Maybe Rich can comment on this.

(I am just adding tidbits for your mind to nibble on, as you get ready to do this task. Most likely, after you do it, you will want to do it again in the near future; trying a different oil. Once you mess with the front suspension, you kind of get hooked on messing with it.......until it feels right for your type of riding that you do.)

B.L.
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:20 PM
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I've done the job while on the centerstand all the time, but I put a preventer strap pulling forward on the centerstand so it won't collapse. The sidestand is a more stable platform, however.

I take the spacer & spring out while the fork tube is till in the triple tree. It is good to have them secured there instead of trying to hold the polished round oily slippery thing in my hand.

After I had the fork tube out and the old oil drained, I put in a couple of cups of solvent (paint thinner, etc.) and pumped it up and down to loosen the crud. Dump that out, drain briefly, rinse with any cheap hydraulic oil...ATF, hydraulic jack oil, anything thin & cheap. Repeat until clean. Drain. Now fill with the fork oil to the level Rich describes. Pump it a few times to ensure that all the air is out and confirm the oil level.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Lab View Post
For the sake of comparison, I weigh just a little less then you do, all geared up. I have the stock springs installed, and I have found that 15wt oil works best for me.

I found that, the 10wt oil let the springs rebound too fast for my riding tastes.

However, I also have modified Race Tech Emulators installed as well too. And, this could have an effect as to why I stepped up to heavier weighted oil.

Maybe Rich can comment on this...
The emulators do change things. They let you reduce/tailor the compression damping so that you can pick the oil weight mostly based on rebound needs. With the stock valving you have to compromise more.
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2012, 09:43 PM
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BL thanks for that! Definitely more to chew on.

Thank you all for help on this. Really defined the fuzzy areas and small questions I has.

I also like PTRiders method of cleaning all the junk out.
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