Hey I've done some searching and could not find what I was looking for so here goes.
I have a 2012 650 ABS currently with an ABS light on. I had the dealer do a diagnostic and they said my intermittent ABS light and random ABS motor cycling was due to a front sensor malfunction. Seemed to make sense that a bad sensor could cause intermittent issues (just like a few cars I've fixed). They quoted a pretty high price for the fix so I just did it myself and got a new sensor installed yesterday. In the interim I rode the bike with the ABS valve fuse pulled to totally disable the system.
Anyway, the light isn't going out anymore even after I've restored the valve fuse and made sure my connections were all good. I have a service manual (official) and it seems like I did everything right. Is there some kind of self test needed to clear the ABS faults? Could I have damaged the sensor during installation? I'm stumped.
SeattleWee
PS I did a few test rides because I know the light goes out after 3 mph normally.
Its the ABS pump unit.......very likely. Buddy of mine had a 12 with the exact same issue and did all the troubleshooting which could be the cause of such, and it was the ABS unit which ultimately was bad. Yup........its expensive, and his issue was annoyingly intermittent.
Check to make sure the front sensor disc is flat and the sensor is within the proper distance all the way around. Also make sure there isn't any debris in the holes. See if you can find another bike to swap sensors with to make sure you don't have a bad sensor.
Ok I will try and report back. Some more background. The symptoms before I did anything was an intermittent abs light and sometimes the system would engage the ABS pulsing when it wasn't required (like coming to a gentle stop). This of course was unsafe so I disabled the system by pulling the fuse. The valve motor seemed to work, but it was triggering at the wrong time (bad sensor data?). Anyway, I will try some more troubleshooting. Do you think it would be worthy buying the SDS tool?
Fwiw I had the exact some issues in my 2012 DL650. Usually it was within a half mile of starting my ride. No issues were ever found (and my dealer is actually very good and helpful) and I never solved it. I wasn't interested in trying a new abs unit and my wife told me to get a new bike. I sold the bike before it was resolved (the new owner was milking it into a more dirt oriented bike so was disabling the abs anyway.)
I had an issue on my 2014 V2 where the ABS light would come on after 3 or 4 blocks, it turned out to be a bent section on the rear sensor disk. Easily solved, didn't cost anything, but you had to look carefully to spot it.
update: A swapped ABS sensor resulted in similar intermittent behavior, so the sensors are not the issue. I checked both connectors again and they are clean (front and rear). The abs sensor rings both are straight and true.
tonight I will get at the big ABS pump connector and clean it with some corrosion x again. I'm thinking I have the corrosion issue with the ABS pump that was mentioned earlier. If that doesn't work I will probably pick up an ABS module from a salvage bike off ebay and throw a hail mary!
This is becoming quite problematic. I got a used ABS module from a salvage bike (2014 with 9k miles) and slapped it in. Dang, no change! This must mean my front sensor is still bad or I have a wiring harness problem. I've cleaned both connectors twice now and I even swapped out the sensor from the same salvage bike, so MAYBE I could have a bad sensor again, but this seems unlikely. I'm getting tempted to dump this thing and get a GS! Any thoughts?
I managed to get an ABS code. It was OPEN FRONT SENSOR CIRCUIT. The manual says this could be a bad sensor, wiring, or module. I've swapped 2 of the 3.... Any tips for chasing bad wiring?
Hello.
you have to make sure the the ABS module is the correct one, they are not all the same(check part nr)
If it's the correct one,check the clearance between the front sensor and the rotor it should be between 0,26 and 1.67 mm (0.010 -0.066 in) and that you don't have any play in the front wheel.
to check the wiring you need to see if there is no loose terminals inside the abs sensor connector in the sensor side and in the abs module connector,with connectors out also check for continuity between terminal 16 in abs module connector and white and red wire in abs sensor connector and terminal 7 in abs module connector and brown and red at abs sensor ( the colour may be different but the position should be the same.) also check each wire for continuity to ground and to power of course that to ground and power you can't have continuity because if you do it's shorted or you are checking the wrong wires.
Update: So I probed and probed all Thanksgiving....and everything is fine. All connections are good. Continuity for each connection to the main wiring harness and no shorts or chafing found. I'm stumped. The code is still 42 for OPEN FRONT SENSOR CIRCUIT. The light remains illumianted for all my test rides and ABS is disabled. The manual says it could be my main computer (even though it is swapped with a low mileage spare). The part numbers all line up. I'm so confused haha!
Hi, are the tyres good? is one tyre a lot more worn out than the other,tyre pressure ok?
the only thing left for you to try is to measure the the amps the sensor is using..
there is a picture attached with the process, hope that would help.
Cheers.
Well this just got interesting. Thank you for the instructions, the sensor is OK. The module is OK. Turns out I have a partially broken wire for the front sensor unit. I found it by holding the wiring harness in a certain position for the multimeter to find the change in resistance. Wiggling it back and forth found the fault. Now I just have to get into the wiring harness under the tank support under the seat.
Turns out my main wiring harness was chafing with the rear strut support frame member and causing a short! The fault was very intermittent but enough jiggling found it. Too bad I tore apart 50% of the bike to find it...
This was caused by my dealers heated grip installation. They shoved all the extra wiring into this area and pushed the harness onto the frame. Next time I do it myself.
Now I will make a stand off and tape it up. Probably use some liquid electrical tape first. I know this isn't 100% waterproof but I am not going to remove the whole harness. I would probably need all winter.
nice, great find...
imagine doing that type of work everyday for a living... it sucks doesn't it? welcome to my world(auto technician)... lolol
Cheers.
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