I have often tried to describe just how the torsion damper thats built into our clutches works. Came across this movie explaining how the a Dual Mass Flywheel works in other engines. Our's may not be diesel or direct injection but the large capacity V twin creates the same sort of torque pulses that need to be isolated from the transmission and the rest of the bike.
The mass of our DL and SV engines clutch serves as one mass, while the primary drive gear and engine flywheel serve as the other. The spring arrangement and protection from overload is also much the same. All this to maintain both refinement at idle and as we ride. Just the same principles and very similar components. The automotive world is also having problems with these DMF's. Much the same as in our engines. Lucky for us our damper is robust enough and made in such a way it can be modified with re-engineering to work better than new - and with a much greater life expectancy.
Dual Mass Flywheel For Passenger Cars - How It Works - - YouTube
Svma aka Sharealike most other places
Fuller details to do your own DL or SV basket.
Shown much of this before over the years and in all sorts of places - never before such a complete set all in the same place.
From top left. Re-engineered basket and re-engineered gear.
Bottom row from left. Re-engineered inner and outer plates. New high tensile setscrews to replace old rivets.
All other components can often be used again after fine check for tolerance and signs of damage.
New ground finish to hub of gear.
Where the new sharealike bearing - precision machined to match will run. - example of original finish to right.
Old rivet holes are drilled, tapped and counter sunk for new high tensile setscrews. Some copiers have drilled these oversize and used thread inserts. This weakens the posts as the basket is very thin where the posts meet the main casting.
Inner plate fitted to back of basket. Setting of exact position is done later after measurements.
Gear and Spring Set fitted. Position of each spring is key.
Dished Springs fitted. Look round the centre.
Fit Top Cover. Original case hardening is roughed up to ensure underside of the setscrews key into the plate. This area is often polished on older baskets because the loose rivets allowed the surfaces to fret as they chuddered.
Insert and tighten three high tensile setscrews and oil pump gear drive dowel.
Fit oil pump gear. The one thing that will only fit the right way round. Circlip can be fitted wrong.
Look inside to check component positions ready for damping deflection checks.
Measure damping deflection. Basket prevented from rotation while gear is rotated with increased loads.
Check the loading for each and observe the four phases of the torsion absorber working.
Strip after earlier test assembly. Adjust damping, deflection and phases based on measurements taken in above two stages.
Lubricate, rebuild, confirm adjutments are correct, seal to prevent moisture getting in and lubricant getting out until you are ready to fit.
This is by no means the complete process. You will need a good engineering background to perform the work. Hope it gives some insight into the original re-engineered modification.
It only used approved transmission engineering and widely accepted methods for the work. Pays much closer attention to position and tolerances of each component than when new. These dampers can now be opened up and re-adjusted after the initial modification shown above. They can then be regarded as an easily serviceable item.
Well over three hundred modified like this running in bikes all round the world. Started offering to modify them to save owners fitting replacement baskets so they could rid these lovely engines of the chudder for ever. Enjoyed helping everyone sort out their bikes.
I know that the clutch chudder won't leave me stranded BUT I was wondering affect it has on engine enternals??.My chudder is at point where it makes the whole bike vibrate more at most every rpm.I would think that after a period of time having that clutch out there vibrating might cause a seal or worst yet a bearing failler ??
I have been sick for a couple of weeks so I have had alot of time to lay there and think !!.
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Drew this up some years ago to show what breaks inside the DL and SV baskets. You would have to ride one hard for at least 10,000 severely chuddering miles to find the plate cracked, gear striking the safety stop and the rivets loosening off. NOT ALL BASKETS GET LIKE THIS. My own SV basket had all this at only 12,000 miles except my very loose inner plate was not cracked.
Never found any damage outside or away from the basket that could be directly attributed to the chudder in my own engines. No one else reported anything I know of. Fact the vibration originates inside the clutch basket and is felt through the bike means it must follow through a fair number of components to reach the rider. The thrust face of this gear meshed with the crankshaft often gives away how the engines vibration passes through the clutch to the gearbox input shaft.
Note the two ground out sections of the thrust face at the end of the bearings bore. These are normal and allow oil fed down the hollow gearbox shaft to lubricate the thrust faces of the gear. Look how the face immediately below the one on the right has ripples (three or four?). There are the same ripples in the face above the one on the left. These ripples are caused by constant hammering of the thrust face against the gearbox input shaft bearing. The oil entering the gap between the thrust faces is first compressed and then released by the hammering action of the vibration. This occurs so regularly at a given frequency to cause the pressure waves in the oil which form the ripples. It's the type of damage typical of repeated oil pressure and decay known as cavitation. I first found these ripples in my own SV1000 basket over four years ago and at only 12,000 miles. They are there in most baskets with a weakened torsion damper and are the exact same size and distance appart. The number, depth and distance they reach away from the oil feed points increases with miles. Have some gears where two quarters of the thrust faces are rippled. It's unlikely to be causing the same level of damage in the gearbox bearings but can't be good for any bearings or load bearing parts close by. Particularly over the life of our engines. Suzuki have made revisions to the thrust faces on SV and DL baskets but don't seem to have reduced the incidence of this damage. I see the early signs of it even in 5,000 mile baskets I have modified.
Whole point of these engine torsion dampers is to isolate and so protect our drive line from damage just like this. Their value should not be ignored nor their modification be attempted without full understanding of the long term impact on components.