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V-Strom Modifications and Performance The brag page, good and bad.

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  #1  
Old 04-07-2010, 01:04 PM
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Default Better regulator/rectifier

I posted this at a charging system discussion on a DL1000 thread but it really has universal application so I'll repeat it here. I'd recommend getting one to anyone who suspects their R/R is having a problem.

I just installed a Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA regulator/rectifier on my bike. It shows much better voltage at idle and low rpms and a little better at higher rpms with heated gear than the stock R/R. When not under heavy load, the thing holds within 0.1V of 14V at all times. It is amazingly steady. It has Eastern Beaver support too. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html

It even fits where the stock R/R does. I got mine at http://roadstercycle.com/Universal%2...%20upgrade.htm but it is often available on Ebay for much less.

To prevent stator burnout, a better option is a series R/R. I'm sorry I gave wrong information about a MOSFET R/R being easier on the stator or using less power. Please ignore any such claims in the following posts. I was just plain wrong. It's still a shunt type regulator although a more precise one.

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Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html

Last edited by greywolf; 01-31-2014 at 11:20 PM. Reason: Add series R/R info and power disclaimer
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2010, 01:22 PM
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Nice find dude! Probably why a lot of CHECK alarms were experienced. What do you think?
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:52 PM
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A CHEC is only thrown when the proper signal is not received from the ECM. That has been caused by a kill switch being off, a problem with the kick stand safety interlock, or a circuit problem between the ECM and display. I don't see how a R/R would be involved.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html

Last edited by greywolf; 04-07-2010 at 05:07 PM. Reason: remove photo
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:36 PM
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Great find, and a reasonable price! I like how the connectors and such are included.

It's true you can get these or very similar models, usually pulled from wrecked Honda sportybikes, on fleaBay if you're patient.

They're the hot ticket for any bike with a permanent magnet three-phase stator setup like the V-Strom and many older bikes.
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
A CHEC is only thrown when the proper signal is not received from the ECM. That has been caused by a kill switch being off, a problem with the kick stand safety interlock, or a circuit problem between the ECM and display. I don't see how a R/R would be involved.

I was thinking that most of the indicators were voltage based and assumed that if the ECM did not receive voltage within a predetermined level/time, it would then send the CHECK alarm. It is probably more likely that false FI alarms would be generated since most of them are voltage (level/time) based. I extrapolated this thought from my experience with a BMW that had ABS and used to give false ABS fail annunciation when the battery was a little low/old at low RPMs. Sorry if I added more confusion and or highjacked.
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:04 PM
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Oooo, nice! Thanks, Pat.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:26 AM
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I am seriously considering moving my regulator to a spot where it will catch more air for cooling purposes. Should I be concerned about the lenth of the wiring?
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:37 AM
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Default I think I might be having an issue with mine?

I thought I would check in here instead of starting a new thread, because it is possible I may be having issues with my '09 650 (@ 11,500 kms) r/r... Here are the symptoms.
When I first start the bike (from cold) at idle with no electrical load I get a Voltage reading of between 13.8v ~ 14.1v. This is at idle. Now when the bike is ridden a bit (when it gets hot), at idle the Voltage can drop as low as 12.2 sittling at a stoplight. Again at idle. When the revs climb past 2k rpm all is fine cold or hot. Voltage goes back to 13.8 or so.
So my question is a) nothing to worry about b) R/R issue c) Stator output d) none of the above.

Thanks
Richard
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:52 AM
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If it was very good system maybe it just is reacting to a charged battery.

Park facing a wall see if the lights brighten when you rev it.

Also voltage at idle should be minimum. If it gives you the 13.8V+ when over 2000 RPMs I think you are fine.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw View Post
If it was very good system maybe it just is reacting to a charged battery.

Park facing a wall see if the lights brighten when you rev it.

Also voltage at idle should be minimum. If it gives you the 13.8V+ when over 2000 RPMs I think you are fine.
Cheers!

Richard
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