For 10% dirt roads, I'd skip the skidplate for now. But I would consider metal framed bark buster type handguards AND an engine guard (Givi, Motech, etc). The engine guard protects the expensive fairings in a tipover; whereas the barkbusters keep the bike rideable (no broken controls such as levers, throttle, etc). Slow it down coming into the turns off road compared to the KLR. The Wee likes to power out of turns and this is where you catch up. On straights and up hills it is also fairly stable, even more when standing. Keep it mellow on dirt roads and you will be fine. I enjoy higher bars for standing.

Off road, I have ridden aggressively on the Wee and this is the wrong bike for that. Ridden aggressively on dual track or bumpy fireroads you will probably bottom out, requiring skid plates. Further the stock forks are very soft and bottom easily, WHEN ridden aggressively on bumpy dirt terrain. Yes, I re-did my suspension front and rear and it no longer bottoms at all. But you still have vulnerable cast wheels that are tough enough for a mellow pace but will bend on impact at speed. How do I know? Last summer my front wheel bent hitting a rock at 60-70mph on a dusty trail (no crash ... that time). Still holds air but that was the last of my "quick" dirt rides on a street bike with poor ground clearance, limited travel, cast wheels, and 450+lbs.

As for tires, this is very personal and depends how aggressive you want to get on and off road. The OEM tires or whatever the used bike has is a starting point. From there you can wear them out and explore other tires choices over time. The Tourance rear is very nice and I mate a Tourance EXP to front which wear out at the same rate and handle on road fantastic. Dirt roads are fine but require confidence and caution. A more dirt worthy combo (probably better if u decide to do 20% dirt) is a TKC80 front tire (gets about 5,000+ miles) and a standard (non-EXP) Tourance rear (will last 6-8,000 miles) is a fine choice that many GS and Strom riders have tried with supposed success. Straight up TKC80s (front and rear) are nice but too expensive as the rears can be toast quickly (1500-2500 miles) if you are aggressive. Alternatively, a Wee on Pilot Road 3s could do dry, hard pack dirt roads but now you are talking serious white knuckles unless at a super cautious pace!!!

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current: '12 DL650 Adv black, '08 KTM 990A w/19" Excel front wheel & Renazco, '09 Sherco ST 2.9 Trials motorcycle; Sold: '07 Wee

Thanks that's great info. I was on some gravel roads today and where it was soft or deep I was not sure I could keep it upright I am on Anakees (front just put on for safety by dealer so about 1K km) but kept with it; standing helped for sure. Glad the handle bars are raised slightly and happy for the wider dirt pegs for standing.
Loved it in the paved, twisty Laurentian Hills near Mont Tremblant where we spent last night.

My must-do list is (*degree of importance):

**** Murph's (preferred) or Rick's Fork Brace - stability
** Sonic Front Springs to match your weight and ride style
**** EBC HH Sintered metallic pads for maximum stopping power
**** Stebel air horn
- Kevin Baker lowering links (drop front fork 3/4" maximum) - better handling and short legs
- crash bars (why not?)
- center stand (why not?)
- tank bag for daily trips
- Bestem top box for groceries and helmet storage in town
- Teflon chain lube - clean and easy to remove
** Rotella T6 synthetic oil - good for wet clutches and a full season of rides
- Metzeler Tourance tires - high mileage performance tread
** Slime fix-it tire kit with minicompressor
- Volt meter

That'll take a while but you'll be significantly safer with the ** mods. Enjoy your ride.

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Brian Patterson
Powell, TN

2007 Suzuki DL650A | 1996 Jeep Cherokee | 2003 Mercedes E320 | 1995 Mazda Miata