Some thoughts having just done my first valve check.

[aldntn]

1) I finally figured the plastic panels out. Its really easy if you know the sequence.

2) I don't think that I will ever lift those cams. When a valve (it will be an exhaust) is out of spec I'll button it up enough to get it to my mechanic and
say "set all the exhausts to the middle of the spec".

3) Those are teeny threads on the spark plugs: I'll always use anti-seize compound there. I got the NGKs at O'Reilly auto at a good price.

4) Every bolt (except those on the plastic) gets threads cleaned and fresh blue thread lock. Also, I hand start all bolts to make sure I don't cross-thread.

5) I drained the anti-freeze and disconnected the lower hose to help move the radiator out of the way. Refilling, I poured the lower hose full before reconnecting. About half of the anti-freeze went in. A lot of air found its way out. The rest, except for maybe half a cup, went in the radiator. I put the
half cup in the overflow tank.

6) I removed the Givi side guards. Not really that much trouble for getting them out of the way. I've decided to always support the engine a little
underneath when I take those bolts out. Any misalignment makes it hard to get the bolts started.

7) Per GreyWolf's knowledge I was expecting to apply gasket sealer to the half moon parts. But, when the valve covers came off, the gaskets stayed with the heads, leaving the half moons in place and undisturbed. Putting the covers back on I wetted the gasket lightly with oil (so it would easily slide into the cover groove). With the cover in place I inspected with a mechanic's mirror to ensure that the gasket was in place (all around and in the spark plug hole). After 120 mi of mixed riding everything looks tight.

Starting back up I got a palpitation. Ignition on, everything lit up normally and it made the right sounds. She cranked but didn't fire. I paused, reviewed the display to confirm no warnings. I cranked again moving the throttle opening around. Then she fired and ran beautifully...everything normal.

Pondering this later I figured that the fuel line to the injectors gets some air in it when the tank is disconnected and this air must be pushed out of the
injectors before a burnable mixture can be spit out. Thus, it takes a little cranking.

9) The fuel tank was nearly empty because I had done some unexpected riding: 309 mi on the odo. I say this because the tank would be very unwieldy if it had much gas in it. In the future I will always be blinking the last blink before removing the tank.

10) FWIW my measurements:


Rear Intake: Left: .005 - .006
Right: .005 - .006
Rear Exhaust: Left: .008 - .009
Right: .008 - .009
Front Intake: Left: .005 - .006
Right: .005 - .006
Front Exhaust: Left: .008 - .009
Right: .009 - .010

I got a bit carried away this year so the check was at 18,000 mi.

11) The air filter is a dense material. I'm not sure a plain paper pleat can be as good ... even more so a K&N. The air-box was clean room clean. There were quite a few bugs and gravelly bits in the pleats of the filter. I will probably stay with the Suzuki part, but only change it every other valve check (the service chart says every 11,000 mi). Once the bugs and grit were vacuumed out, the filter was just mildly discolored.

12) Replace spark plugs every 7500 mi.? Give me a break. I replaced them (Denso) at 18,000 and they looked like they could go another 18,000. For
convenience I'll replace at every valve clearance check. I lightly greased the seal on the center spark plug wires to make sure it sealed completely. Nothing good can come from junk getting down in there.

13) I'm going to replace those dinky radiator hose clamps with real clamps next time I'm in there.

14) The plastic parts are easy to clean and wax when they're off the bike. Back together it was cleaner than its been for 6 months. I promptly went out and rode through all kinds of rain for 120 mi. Well, I've got the memory.

15) The only thing I failed to re-connect was the front crankcase breather tube. I reached in and got it in place no problem.

15) She's back together and running great. That's how I spell RELIEF.

[Jagstrom]

My notes on valve check & adjustment:
1) SW Motech engine guards don't need to be touched to remove any plastic.
2) Lifting the cams is easy - just takes time and CARE. Plenty of info here on the right way to do it.
3) I reckoned at 24,000km it was time for a radiator flush & new fluid, so I removed the radiator - made things easier when taking out the cam [front exhaust] for the two valves that needed adjustment.
4) The valve-cover gaskets stuck partly on the heads, partly on the covers, when they were first lifted. I used a thick feeler gauge to pry them out of the covers, so that they remained on the heads and didn't disturb the half-moon seals.
5) There was quite a gap around the centre of the spark-plug wires where they ran into the heads. I used the gasket sealer to fill in the gap. The old front plug had rust & corrosion on it when it was removed.
6) The old plugs were still in fine condition electrically, but I'd bought new NGKs, so they went in.
7) A TB balance was done after the valve adjustment to keep things in order.

[MikeB]

I'll button it up enough to get it to my mechanic and
say "set all the exhausts to the middle of the spec".

If I were paying big bucks like that I'd ask for everything to be set at the high end of spec. After all, "a tappy valve is a happy valve."

Some BMW gurus recommend DOUBLING recommended loose spec on R-bikes. If you ever pull up beside a rattling boxer you'll know it's that way on purpose.

[aldntn]

"just takes time and CARE"

Jagstrom, I had more time than money for the first valve check. Hopefully I'll be gainfully employed before long and get back to my time-risk-reward way of operating. If I'm still time rich and money poor when the cams need to come out, guess I'll have at it.


"a tappy valve is a happy valve."

MikeB, I don't disagree. If none of the gaps open up next time I check, then I'll probably go to the upper end.

[zero_it]

My '06 DL 650 had nearly 27,000 miles on the odo at it's first valve lash check. All valves were right smack in the middle of the range. No adjustments made. Gotta like that!

[philthy]

Almost 12k miles.

I managed the check without removing the radiator. Just used a bungee to pull it forward after removing the one bolt holding it to the front head.

All were in spec. Dealer did 600 mile check and I'm not sure (doubt it) that they did a valve clearance check. I was happy not to have to remove cams.

My gaskets came off with the head cover. Used make a gasket upon assembly for the half moons.

Also not sure about the tappy is happy thing. I'm going to shoot for keeping within factory specs.

I also did a TBS simply adjusting the screw controlling the butterflies per the factory manual, were off by about 2cm mercury (old mercury stick style). The idle speed did change a little, and holy crap what a task trying to set the idle speed (another post).

Really not too bad of a job with the correct tools. Does help to have a less full gas tank and a clean bike.

[greywolf]

As was mentioned in the other post, '07 and later 650s have a different TBS procedure than you used.

[CanadianFZ6]

Originally Posted by philthy

Dealer did 600 mile check and I'm not sure (doubt it) that they did a valve clearance check.

That's because the 1000km or 600 mile service does not call for a valve clearance check. The 1st valve check is at 24,000km (14,500 miles). They basically just changed the oil and filter.

[daveo]

Here are some others I've heard:

"There is no replacement for displacement."

"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races."

Also, I'll put my two cents worth on the valve adjustment. All of mine were on the tight side. The lesson I took away from my experience: make sure to clean the chain and cam shaft sprocket well before marking - permanent marker doesn't stick well when there is even the slightest amount of oil.

[uzidzit]

just lift the tank off (after removing all the fairing screws) and the side panels will come right out, with the givi or hepco bars in place.

just a fyi it will be a tight intake valve before any thing else.

replacing the plugs, every 9-10 kmi will keep it running smoother in cold weather, and keep it starting easier. yeah they look ok, and yeah they may go longer but it really makes a difference in the cold.

my '06 runs better on the ek type plug 1 step colder in the hot humid summer. (this discovery was made by accident when I picked up the wrong plugs, I was not looking for improvement here it just showed up)