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| Product Reviews The place to post your thoughts about V-Strom related products. This section is designed to help make the searching easier, but you will find other reviews in the other sections. |
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#11
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my car has a injector cut off during coasting, and when you get back on it there's a lil stutter as things get going again. my bike feels like that. when i chop the throttle it feels abrupt, and when i come on it from zero throttle (unless i get it just right) it comes on rather abrupt. i may need to tinker with my chain tension or i may not, but i can agree in the throttle feeling choppy at times.
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#12
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When I first bought my Vee doing a U-turn was at times problematic due to the slop in the throttle cable. I adjusted the cables and the the problem was gone. I think the throttle tube is beautiful but for 95% of all Strommers it doesn't address a problem.
les
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I own the Bestest Strom in the World!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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#13
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Get a room, you two.
On my '08, the FI is very abrupt at on-off. All adjustments are dead-on; I know how to use my clutch; I've never even owned a carburated bike; I have not modified the mechanicals; and my right hand is plenty steady, thankyouverymuch. The problem is not at takeoff; it's more noticeable when rolling on power in a tight curve at speed. Duck might use the clutch in such situations, but I don't. So it's entirely possible that DL650 samples may differ, but the problem does exist. After 23k miles, I am so used to it that it's not a factor in my experience anymore, but it is there.
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![]() '08 Wee |
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#14
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Quote:
I'd seen that exact sentence on an advertisement for a similar product, and since I'd never found f-i systems to be jerky, I thought you'd believed (and reposted) their hype. My apologies, since that's not the case. dtalk: rolling on power in a low gear while exiting a tight corner can be a problem if you're not in the powerband. I doubt the throttle-tamer thingy will help in such a situation as you are hopefully at over half open throttle and in the power band. You are right, I do have a "peculiar" (but very effective) technique for those situations: I ride the rear brake a bit to control wheelspin and to keep the rear wheel loaded. I also slip the clutch a bit if needed. I find it easier to modulate traction with the brake and clutch than with the throttle alone in those situations; it makes weight transfer so much smoother when you have three degrees of adjustment. |
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#15
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In my experience, many fuel injection systems have abrupt have abrupt off-on throttle transitions, and I'm not the only one who has noticed this - many professional reviewers have found the same thing on many (especially early) FI bikes, and even some more recent ones. I remember noticing this with the first FI car we had in my family back in the late 80s, compared to previous carbureted vehicles. For all their many flaws, carburetors are a system that has been developed to a fine point over many decades, while many bike FI systems are not nearly as well developed. Even my '96 Sentra suffered from this problem pretty badly - my current Accord might have the same problem if it wasn't being masked by a slushbox.
I don't know that any cam type throttle pulley can solve this problem, however, although it can certainly help in smoothing things out once past the inital off to on throttle transition. Some bikes have these things built in, although at the other end of the throttle cable. |
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#16
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![]() '08 Wee |
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#17
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Lol; wheelspin isn't a matter of horsepower, it's a matter of traction.
If you're cornering near the limit of traction, any excess throttle will cause the wheel to spin; it doesn't matter how powerless the bike is. The wee can break traction laterally as easily as any other machine; when you're near that point, any abrupt throttle application (or reduction) can cross that line. I find the rear brake and clutch are really useful in staying on the safe side, and they are a lot easier to modulate than the throttle. That, and I ride in a lot of rain. I live in Vancouver (remember?) and commute on my bike 365 days per year. Oh, wait, you're in Seattle; you know what I'm talking about. Last edited by SittingDuck; 06-24-2010 at 03:00 AM. |
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#18
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My '08 DL1K has a very abrupt "on-off" throttle response. I am used to being VERY careful with the throttle on the six miles of dirt I did live on. Now, in morning and afternoon traffic, I still find the throttle to be sensitive / abrupt. I've owned bikes since the '70s, from 90cc dirt bikes to a CBX, usually do my own work all the way to a top end rebuild on my CBX.
Bottom line: The DL throttle is too abrupt FOR ME, okay? Just ordered a G2 throttle tamer and looking forward to installing it.
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2008 Suzuki DL 1k 1989 Honda PC800 (Yes, owned 2) 1992 Yamaha Virago 750 1989 Honda PC800 1988 Kawasaki EX500 1984 Honda VT500 1981 Honda CBX 1979 Honda CB750 "I'm out of smoke bombs, napalm, and I'm outta 22 bullets" -Si Robertson |
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