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#1
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What happens on a bike going too fast into a turn and the rider hits the rear brake? From reading various posts, I guess something nasty happens?
What factor(s) cause tire cupping, and what does it look like? Thanks in advance.
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2006 DL1000, 16:43 ratio, Speedohealer, Stebel air horn-PWD mount, Madstad, Suzuki luggage, throttle lock. previous '03 Honda CB750 Nighthawk '92 Yamaha Virago 1100 '84 Yamaha Seca 650 |
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#2
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"hitting" the rear could cause the rear to skid/slide out, then, rapidly releasing the pedal can cause a high-side and off you go.
A little of the rear (or front) brake into turns is sometimes called "trail" braking, and although it tends to burn thru pads faster, I feel better with a bit of rear brake to stabilize the rear wheel speed thru some turns-- but you don't need a lot. Plus the v-strom rear brake is kind of wimpy anyways so I wouldn't worry too much about skidding the rear.. you'd need to slam down on it pretty good to skid out unless you were off-road or wet pavement. Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
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===== '04 Suz. DL650 Wee ===== Ex's (in order): '88 CBR, '92 FZR600, '86 GSXR750, '91 EX500, '87 VFR700F2, '94 CBR600F2, '01 YZF600R (Black), '92 CB750, '95 VFR750, '03 YZF600R (Silver) Last edited by klimber; 09-10-2012 at 03:06 PM. |
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#3
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I think that there is only one way to actually go around the corner if you go in too fast. Save all the tire traction for steering and do not brake with either front of rear.
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Road Toads Charter Member - old guy goes stromabout on a 2007 Vee ![]() ![]() States and Provinces I've visited |
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#4
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Lean more, it seems to help. Scary sometimes though. Where do you think all this gray hair comes from?
The cupping will look and feel like the tire is scalloped. Makes for really crumby cornering too. Air pressure, or lack of correct pressure will lead to cupping. Some tires are more prone to this. |
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#5
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An out of balance tire and wheel, or a bent rim will cause cupping. Low or too high air pressure can also cause it.
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New Crispy Snack Cracker To Ease Crushing Pain Of Modern Life |
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#6
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Cupping can be caused by a tire mounted backwards that is directional. Happened to me.
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2009 DL650 |
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#7
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Bikes typically will stand up during extreme braking in turns, unless really layed down, typically its OK to use gradual pressure while braking in a turn and increase the pressure as needed, abrupt braking while turning can get an inexperienced rider into trouble fair quick, slowly increasing pressure will give you better feedback and you will instictfully apply pressure to the bars to maintain the control of the machine. It always best to keep it away from the berm while braking while turning, untill you are very familer with the sensitivy of the bikes braking.
In an emergency situation, its best to upright the machine in a turn and apply the brakes, this keeps the momentum going in the correct direction and increases the conntact area of the tire preventing and inadvertent lowside and lock up. Many factors can cup a tire, pressure, alighnment, suspension ect. Once a tires cups it will continue to do so, due to the scuffing of the tire being uneven during each rotation of the tire.
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"Pain is weakness leaving the body" "Nothings possible until its done!" "If ya can't afford the fine, take the lead!" |
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#8
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Me, OP: What happens on a bike going too fast into a turn and the rider hits the rear brake? From reading various posts, I guess something nasty happens?
I get it better now. But, what I had not realized is the effect of braking too hard into a leaning turn-and then letting off. The bike is going to go vertical real fast and either kick you off or go into a wobble. Either way can wreck your day. And I'm good with the cupping. Pressure good, straight and true. Thanks dudes.
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2006 DL1000, 16:43 ratio, Speedohealer, Stebel air horn-PWD mount, Madstad, Suzuki luggage, throttle lock. previous '03 Honda CB750 Nighthawk '92 Yamaha Virago 1100 '84 Yamaha Seca 650 |
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#9
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Also worth thinking about what happens when you apply any sort of braking while banked over in a corner ~ some weight transference occurs, onto the front wheel. And off the back wheel. Very easy to have so little weight pushing down on the rear, that the rubber there just can't provide enough traction to keep the rear half of the bike following the front around the curve. Result : low side crash and you exit your lane (or, as has been said, maybe worse as a high side crash, if you have lifted your right foot). All depends on how extreme your bank angle is. If leaned all the way over, you can't afford to use the rear brake at all [though you may be able to get away with using the front brake gently]. And if you are not really leaned over far . . . then you probably don't need to brake at all, to get around that corner [but for an unexpected obstacle, of course, you'll need to straighten up, to brake more heavily]. I'm willing to be instructed otherwise ~ but off-hand I can't think of a good reason to go into a corner while trailing the rear brake. True, a racing rider will use brakes going into a corner [before ceasing braking when reaching maximum lean through the apex] . . . but that is using heavy braking (90+% front) during the more upright transition phase of leaning, in order to gain a few more hundredths of a second on the turn. And his wheels will be fitted with rubber which is a lot closer to "chewing-gum". . |
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#10
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Which is why it is recommended to slow before entering the corner, and then accelerate smoothly through the corner. It increases the contact patch on the rear tire and closes your turning radius. If you want some good information from experts on how to corner, look up "cornering bible" on youtube.
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When you think of the long and gloomy history of man, you will find more hideous crimes have been committed in the name of obedience than have ever been committed in the name of rebellion. - C. P. Snow |
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