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Cam job on my 650... questions!

3K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  greywolf 
#1 ·
Hi guys..

I've been reading various valve check/adjustment threads here. I also read the main cam swap thread (http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...nce/69498-cam-swap-into-dl650-sweet-easy.html), particularly post #5 from alexzio with the simple step by step.

What I'm not clear on is this -- do I have to deal with the cam chain tensioner?? I've been googling and reading up on it, and attempted the double-screwdriver trick without luck. I haven't done anything else yet.. figured I'd ask here.

Thanks!

Rob
 
#3 ·
And... how do you tell these SV650 cams apart? I have them here on my desk and they're identical. The parts fiche says they're different though. Meaning, which one goes in the front cylinder and which one in the back? Or does it matter?
 
#5 ·
You either need to take out at least the center bolt with spring in the tensioner or have somebody release the pawl and hold the notched rod away from the chain while you work. Somebody here claimed that can be done by one person but I think such a person have at least three and preferably four hands. If you take the center bolt out along with its spring, you can use a small screwdriver to push down on the pawl (arrow) to rotate it back and off the notches, slide the ribbed rod in and it will stay away because the spring pressure is gone.

 
#6 ·
Thanks Greywolf. I finally removed the center bolt in the tensioner and got it to retract. Now I'm marking the front intake cam to become the rear. And I figured out which SV cam goes where by comparing it to the position of the stock one (duh). :)
 
#7 ·
The front is done and back together. I reinstalled the cam chain tensioner spring and bolt and torqued to spec and rotated the motor over a few times. Nothing sounded bad (nothing sounded at all). It's all buttoned up, so I just broke loose the bolts on the rear cylinder. I'm gonna have to try to do the screwdriver trick on the rear cam chain tensioner I think. I'm not sure how in the hell to get to it despite the various tips I've read here. We'll see.

Gonna take a break for a bit and get back to it maybe in an hour. With my PC5 due here tomorrow, I'm inclined to leave it somewhat apart so I can just pop the PC5 on tomorrow, then reinstall the tank and finish things up. I'll ride my DR650 to work tomorrow instead.
 
#8 · (Edited)
You have to take out the center bolt to get the spring out of there. Then the screwdriver trick lets you push in the notched bar and keep it away from the chain guide.



 
#9 ·
Back. Okay, I guess I screwed something up with the rear. I have it back to how it was before I started at least, but wanted to post here before I do anymore. I guess I'll finish it up tomorrow after work.

Anyway.. after finishing the front cylinder, I spun the motor over a few times like I said before, and this time stopped on the "R" marking. Is that correct? I'm thinking it's not, because after removing the intake cam on the rear cylinder, I realized the lobes weren't pointing in the right direction. This made it very hard to figure out how things were supposed to go. I figured out the SV cam and got it in place, but couldn't figure out the proper position for the "new" exhaust cam. I ended up returning everything to how it was using the photo I took when I started as reference. Now it's in a position where I can turn the motor over again, but like I said, I wasn't going to do that until I posted here for advice.

Here's how it was when I started:

http://i.imgur.com/6imervl.jpg[/IMG

I wish I had taken more than one photo, but I got a bit distracted by a neighbor and ended up helping her with some stuff before getting started.

So... what'd I do wrong? :)

Rob
 
#10 ·
Assuming that it would be the same as an 08 650, the procedure for the rear cam removal is: After you have set the front cylinder on Top dead center of the compression stroke, and the timing marks are on the "F" , turn the crankshaft 360deg counter clockwise, back to the "F" for cam removal. The "R" is for checking rear valve clearances only.
 
#12 ·
Why would you not remove the cam at TDC on the compression stroke? That's where there is no cam to tappet contact. Anywhere else and you have valve spring pressure on the cam. I haven't checked on the procedure and the question is off the top of my head.

The cams (IN & EX) on the front cylinder at position A show
the front cylinder at TDC of compression stroke with the mark on F.
The cams (IN & EX) on the rear cylinder at position B show
the rear cylinder at TDC of compression stroke with the mark on R.

If the cams are not in the position shown while the marks are aligned, they are on the exhaust stroke. Do not just point the lobes away from the tappets to measure the clearances. They must be measured at TDC of the compression stroke according to the manual.

 
#14 ·
I looked up the procedure. That's how Suzuki describes the procedure on the rear all right. The front is at TDC but the rear is strange. The cams aren't contacting the tappets though so that won't be an issue.
 
#16 ·
I remember using that diagram when I replaced the cams on my Wee. I didn't check the rotor mark. I just got that 1R aligned with the head and the 2 and 3 symmetrical. That was at around 50,000 miles and, the last I heard, the bike had 113,000 miles on it so I must have done it okay. I could have read the instructions better though.
 
#17 ·
I got the cams in yesterday after finding the thread on the BARF site with the diagram so I could be certain I had it correct. I still didn't get the bike together (ran out of day) due to various small issues. Which bring a few questions...

First... where do the hoses that route to the coolant overflow tank go to/from? I've done this before but can't seem to remember. I've guessed at the moment that the line from the radiator (near the cap) runs to the bottom of the tank, and then the hose that tees in with the breather from the gas tank goes to the neck of the tank (near the fill cap). But then there's this check valve looking thing that had a hose, and I can't seem to find that stupid hose. If I know where it's coming from, maybe I can trace it.

Also, how in the heck do you unplug the connector from the injectors? This is for my PC5 installation. It's hard to get my hands/fingers in there, and I can't tell if you squeeze to unplug, or lift the tab to unplug and I don't want to break them. I've squeezed as hard as I can and pulled pretty hard and they still haven't popped off.

All that's left to do is the coolant tank, the PC5, then pop the airbox back on, set the tank on it, plug in the gauge cluster and then I can start it.

Speaking of... is there anything I can listen for after I start it to tell if I'm off a tooth or something on the cam install? I'm pretty sure it's right, but thought I'd ask. I've spun the motor over by hand several times since buttoning it up and it seems fine in that regard.

Thanks again.

Rob

Edit: Why is my old signature still showing on posts? I updated it weeks ago...
 
#18 ·
Okay, well, I'm done! It runs! Took another 2-3 hours but I finished it up.

The only potential issue is that when I start it, it stalls almost immediately with an FI light. If I key off and then restart it, it runs fine. It's done that twice. We'll see if it does it tomorrow.

I went for a 10-15 minute ride and the fueling is definitely much improved. I didn't notice any of the low end loss that people have spoken of. That might come from adding the exhaust (which I'll be doing in a couple of weeks). It definitely is more eager to rev than it used to, but it's not as impressive as I had expected. Again, that may improve with the exhaust. Still, it's a worthwhile improvement, especially with the PC5 and Blair's custom tune.

Rob
 
#19 ·
The work you've done may require a reset of the ISC valve if the idle speed moved much away from the 1300rpm required.


1) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2) Remove the seat.
3) Put the bike in dealer mode. FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes
4) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
6) Then, wait more than 5 seconds.
The ISC valve automatically is set at the PRE-SET position.
7) Take the bike out of dealer mode.
 
#20 ·
Beautiful! Thanks Greywolf! That did the trick. Since you mentioned it, I realized that idle was a bit low. Now it's back to normal. And no codes were found too.

Rob
 
#21 ·
It's nice to know I'm useful as well as decorative.
 
#22 ·
Went to ride to work this morning... first time this week because it's been raining. Bike wouldn't run. It'd start and immediately die, just like when I initially installed the PC5. But this time it kept doing it.

Suspecting the same problem, I went into to Dealer Mode to reset the ISC. Either I did it wrong or it didn't help. Still wouldn't stay running. I finally tried starting it IN Dealer Mode to see if it showed any codes, and I got a C24 and C25, which are:

C24 Ignition Signal #1 (Front Coil)
C25 Ignition Signal #2 (Rear Coil)

So what the heck does that mean? I remember connecting the PC5 to both coils per the instructions. This thing ran flawlessly before the PC5. Starting to wonder if I should just pull it off and say to hell with it.

Rob
 
#23 ·
A PC adjusts the fuel mixture. It has nothing to do with the coils which are about spark. The PCV connects to the fuel injectors. Maybe you disturbed the coil wires when you did the installation.

Besides, you have a 650. It doesn't need a PC. Take it off.
 
#24 ·
The instructions specifically said to connect it to both coils with specific connectors.

And it has made a big difference in how the bike feels, i.e. no more twitchy throttle, and just feels better overall. But if it's gonna cause problems, I'll get rid of it.

Rob
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
What exactly have you done since it last ran well? Odds are that would be the cause of any problems. Otherwise, something happened spontaneously.
 
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