As I mentioned I was able to set the steering head bearing torque, using a procedure that Honda uses. Tighten the bearings pretty tight, move the bars lock to lock a dozen times to seat and square-up the bearings in the steering head. Back off the torque, and then set it lightly - 12 lb/feet or so? I did not have a special tool and so this part was done with a calibrated brass drift and a certified hammer by feel. THEN tighten down the lock nut, then the top nut, then the upper fork clamps. Then wrap a strap around the fork tube at the lower triple and pull it with a spring scale like you'd use to weigh a fish. You're looking for 8-10 lbs or so of effort to get the bars to turn.
The calibration of my drift was off and so it took a good half-dozen tries before I got it right, but it feels great on the lift and is silky smooth, a huge improvement.
Got my SV1000 brakes in place, removed the pads and cleaned them up, lubed the sliding pin and pad edges and backs.
Installed the updated clutch slave (left) and filled and bled it.
Installed the bars and controls, played around with the throttle and brake lines for the best setup, swapped over the handguard from the original master/perch, test sat it with my new-to-me seat.
Tracked down a teeny coolant leak, jammed some foam into the tailight to stop it wobbling, tried to install extensions to the throttle body sync ports but discovered that my fuel line was a skosh too big, ran around and tightened all the coolant clamps I could find with it all accessible.
Wiped down my tools and reset on the workbench and lift.
And I'm stopped till I can get my sync lines installed and then I can start to button it back up and install the fairings and tank and airbox and get it looking like a motorcycle again.