Spa day for the Warthog (Major maintenance on a DL1K) - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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  #21  
Old 12-19-2012, 02:46 AM
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Last step is to fill it with the prescribed weight and amount of fork oil. In my case they specified 5 weight oil at 130mm from the top, with the springs removed and the fork tube compressed.

Another cheap but really useful MotionPro tool, this is a syringe with a graduated tube. You set the depth desired, put that donut clamp at the prescribed depth, overfill it slightly and then suck out all it can reach with the syringe. Perfect, simple, elegant.



Putting it all back together - This is a job when your third arm comes in really handy, but if you don't have one you just get aggravated trying to compress the slimy spacer and spring with one hand while you try to thread the fork cap onto the damper rod without cross threading the super fine thread. Then you do it again to get the retaining clip in top. Then mash the assembly against your palm and chest with one hand while you rotate the assembly with the other and try to get it threaded onto the cap. You have to stick your tongue out of the corner of your mouth in just the right way or it can't be done.

This is the moment of triumph. Ready to be closed up.



Tidy them up one last time and admire your handiwork.



OK, enough of that, put them on the bike.



This was about the time I discovered that my wheel was bent. But I was able to set the steering head torque with the wheel installed, and that let me continue with other stuff so that was a little useful.

The aftermath.

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  #22  
Old 12-19-2012, 03:09 AM
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As I mentioned I was able to set the steering head bearing torque, using a procedure that Honda uses. Tighten the bearings pretty tight, move the bars lock to lock a dozen times to seat and square-up the bearings in the steering head. Back off the torque, and then set it lightly - 12 lb/feet or so? I did not have a special tool and so this part was done with a calibrated brass drift and a certified hammer by feel. THEN tighten down the lock nut, then the top nut, then the upper fork clamps. Then wrap a strap around the fork tube at the lower triple and pull it with a spring scale like you'd use to weigh a fish. You're looking for 8-10 lbs or so of effort to get the bars to turn.

The calibration of my drift was off and so it took a good half-dozen tries before I got it right, but it feels great on the lift and is silky smooth, a huge improvement.

Got my SV1000 brakes in place, removed the pads and cleaned them up, lubed the sliding pin and pad edges and backs.



Installed the updated clutch slave (left) and filled and bled it.



Installed the bars and controls, played around with the throttle and brake lines for the best setup, swapped over the handguard from the original master/perch, test sat it with my new-to-me seat.



Tracked down a teeny coolant leak, jammed some foam into the tailight to stop it wobbling, tried to install extensions to the throttle body sync ports but discovered that my fuel line was a skosh too big, ran around and tightened all the coolant clamps I could find with it all accessible.



Wiped down my tools and reset on the workbench and lift.



And I'm stopped till I can get my sync lines installed and then I can start to button it back up and install the fairings and tank and airbox and get it looking like a motorcycle again.

More tomorrow.

N.
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I have a motorcycle problem.
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2012, 03:30 AM
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Some places that fix wheels.

Wheel repairs - Some known places.
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2012, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Some places that fix wheels.

Wheel repairs - Some known places.
Thanks Pat. I will report back on my experience with these guys and perhaps you might elect to add them to your list. For now I am highly optimistic. They seemed super experienced and professional.

N.
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I have a motorcycle problem.
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2012, 07:31 PM
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What's the story behind "Nils Grille"?
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperdog View Post
What's the story behind "Nils Grille"?
Nothing interesting I'm sorry to say - I should make something up . A friend owned a sign company years ago and it has hung in my garage for a long time.

What is should say is "Nils' Happy Place"

N.
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I have a motorcycle problem.
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadheadawakened View Post
No kidding, definitely a spa trip! Anyways, please let me know how the bars change the ride/feel/etc. I'm thinking of swapping mine(stock originals) because I HATE the way they feel. If possible, would you be willing/able to post a picture of the two bars right next to each other, just to show the difference? If not, no big deal!

Also, is that really the same shield, just polished up? If so,

Thanks for sharing the pictures!
Hey DHA, sorry I neglected to respond to you. Yeah man, that's the same shield. Having nothing to lose made me brave enough to try that!

Sorry to say my bars were not stock, they were a set of Flanders. All the same I did photo them and the ProTapers I got, so for whatever that's worth, here you go, and I will indeed report back on the change to the riding position,. Should be big from the Flanders bars.

Rear. Pro Taper ADV High bars. Front, Flanders.


Reverse - front is the ProTaper, rear is the Flanders


...and it's hard to tell much from this but this is how they look on the bike:


Hope that's at least a little useful.

N.
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R1200GS, DL1K3, CBX, DRZ
I have a motorcycle problem.
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2012, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noblehops View Post
Hey DHA, sorry I neglected to respond to you. Yeah man, that's the same shield. Having nothing to lose made me brave enough to try that!
.....
Hope that's at least a little useful.

N.
No big deal, you've obviously been busy. I know how much more effort it takes to snap pictures as you work, so I understand. The pictures of your bars look awesome. I hate how my stock bars make me feel like my elbows should be in my belly button - it kills my wrists after a longer ride. Those ProTapers look really nice and wide! I've always like a "flatter" feel to the bars...if that makes sense. Not sure if it matters, but I've got a 650, not a 1000.

Again, thanks for all the pictures - it's fun to vicariously tear into a bike!
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  #29  
Old 12-20-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadheadawakened View Post
No big deal, you've obviously been busy. I know how much more effort it takes to snap pictures as you work, so I understand. The pictures of your bars look awesome. I hate how my stock bars make me feel like my elbows should be in my belly button - it kills my wrists after a longer ride. Those ProTapers look really nice and wide! I've always like a "flatter" feel to the bars...if that makes sense. Not sure if it matters, but I've got a 650, not a 1000.

Again, thanks for all the pictures - it's fun to vicariously tear into a bike!
My pleasure Jam. I will photo it better when it's all back together and it will be easier to see how it's all working.

Between the bars, seat, +2 teeth on the rear sprocket, new PCIII map, air filter, iridium plugs, TB sync, RaceTech'ed fork, Sasquatch shock and the SV1000 brakes, I am anticipating it feeling, going, and stopping quite a lot differently than before

N.
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Nils Menten - Santa Cruz, CA, USA

R1200GS, DL1K3, CBX, DRZ
I have a motorcycle problem.
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  #30  
Old 12-20-2012, 05:51 PM
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Great write up!
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