I'm an attention whore (at least I'm trying to be) - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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  #1  
Old 10-29-2013, 12:47 PM
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Location: Purcellville, VA
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Default I'm an attention whore (at least I'm trying to be)

So this documents my steps so far to be noticed. More light, more visibility, more horn. First off, the lighting. When I first got the bike I ran a nice fat 10g wire up to the front of the bike along the stock harness, fused at 30a and switched via relay hooked to the taillight. At the front this terminated in 4 covered spade connectors on 12g wires. I ran a similar 10g wire to a ground point on the frame and it also terminated in 4 spade connectors. I tapped power from one of these and wired in a pair of relays to give the headlights the full 14.4v they should be getting. Stock wiring is used to activate the relays, relays sit between the headlights.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_0453.jpg (94.8 KB, 187 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0452.jpg (93.9 KB, 187 views)
__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2013, 12:57 PM
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From the same power bundle, I power my Zumo, my heated grips, the horn, and the voltage indicator. Zumo and volts indicator take one connector, grips and horn get the other two.
I also installed new Osram +50 bulbs to go with the new wiring. So much better all the way around. Note for the other lazy people, halogens dim over time. If your bike is over a couple years old and still has the stock light bulbs, change them out. It'll make a difference. Back to our regularly scheduled maintenance, before the relays I was losing a full 1.4v from the battery to the headlight. Now I lose less than .2v. Nearly a 10% increase in volts. Moving on, I shamelessly stole the idea I found on here to paint the inside of the turn signals as there is no reflector. I used a chrome paint instead of white, and put in quite a few coats. Definitely not chrome, or mirror, but much better than they were. Also surprised at how dirty the bulbs were, just cleaning the dirt off them increased their output quite a bit. Note that I decided against LEDs in them yet, as they're on so small a time the cost is not justified. Next I put a pair of LED brake lights in, 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Intensity 3 x 2 Watt High Power LED | S series | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs So much brighter than stock it's almost painful the be behind. I like it. Additionally, they draw quite a bit less power than stock. Before, if I was running the heated vest and grips at a stoplight, hitting the brakes would pull the voltage down quite a bit. Now it makes no change. Next was the license plate light. I took out the wee little bulb that was in it, and replaced it with Search Results For "wled-xhp10-dac 194" | LED Products | Super Bright LEDs It took some fitting, cutting, and gluing but eventually I got it to fit. I also removed the license plate mount bracket and bolted the plate directly to the fender to get it more under the light. Scads more light back there, and more volts freed up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4359.jpg (94.3 KB, 137 views)
__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:01 PM
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Finally, (for this round) I stickered the bike up like a schoolgirl's notebook. I used 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape, Black, .5-Inch by 50-Foot - Amazon.com as well as Amazon.com: Keiti WS 800 Wheel Stripe - Reflective - Blue WS800B: Automotive Not terribly noticeable when it's light out, but very tron-esque when hit with headlights. Plus the blue is pretty, and adds some color in an otherwise very black area of the bike.

Edit: It's hard to describe how amazingly effective this reflective tape is. The black is almost invisible even from up very close, but it's very bright under light. I'll try to take a pic tonight from a little distance with a flashlight or something so you can see how much further away the bike is visible. Last two pics are crappy iphone pics taken from my house over to the barn at dusk. First pic is lights off, second is shining a flashlight against the bike.
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__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.

Last edited by whodat; 10-29-2013 at 03:52 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:09 PM
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My only problem with the setup is no mention of other fuses besides the 30A fuse for the main wire. Other wires feeding off of it are smaller and need protection from smaller fuses. For example, I ran heavy wires to a fuse block in the fairing and fed various front mounted accessories off that.

__________________
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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  #5  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:14 PM
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Please note that the whole bike is filthy in those pics, as I have a lot of dirt roads I take every day. Ok, future plans for lighting? I had settled my heart on getting some HID retrofits, but they are expensive (quality) or cheap (just bulbs) and to do it right takes quite a bit of work. The Osrams are very bright so I'm going to stick with them for now. I'm also strongly considering taking a chance on a pair of LED H4 Cree bulbs 2X H4 25W 10W CREE LED High Power Car Truck White Headlight Fog Bulb DRL 2000LM | eBay as this would be as much/more light than I have now, at a greatly reduced electrical load. Lots of money to test though. Maybe I'll beg for them for Christmas.

Ok, last up is the horn. The other day a gentleman tried to merge with me, and I tootled the stock horn to dissuade him. Actually I hit the horn hard enough to spin the controls on the handlebars, and although it is pretty good for a stock horn it didn't carry quite the urgency I was trying to convey. Quick search revealed that the stebel mini nautilus was the key, so off to amazon I went. I welded up a quick bracket and mounted it where Pat Walsh and others do, on the left side of the engine against the cylinders. The bracket they sell is sweet, but expensive, and I didn't need the entire kit since I was adding all my own wiring in at the same time. As I said, I welded up a quick bracket, which I bolted to a hole I drilled in the engine case (not into the engine, naturally) and if you do so you don't need anything other than a simple bit of angle. I also added the optional intake hose adapter and a bit of fuel hose I had lying around to pull clean air from between the throttle bodies. Quite happy with the volume, and you can definitely notice it. Another interesting bit is that it pulls a full couple volts out of the charging system, enough that if the bike isn't running it makes my volts indicator quite cross. Regardless, I can't see a likely scenario that I'd have to be on it more than a few seconds so not a huge issue.

Note that all pics were in-process, dirty garage, etc. Before I buttoned it back up I split loomed, techflexed, or taped all wires to look stock. Fuses for all aftermarket equipment are accessible through the fairing without any disassembly. All connectors used were shrouded, crimped with professional grade crimpers, and dielectric grease was used on all low current connectors.

Beat me to it, but yes every change in wire size mandates a fuse. Each accessory is correctly fused for the size of wire it uses.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0450.jpg (95.3 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0449.jpg (94.7 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0451.jpg (92.3 KB, 67 views)
__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:17 PM
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If you look closely at this one you can see two of the fuses, these are mini blade fuses for the zumo and the voltmeter. Every now and then I'll go on ebay and buy a dozen relays, and a dozen or so mini and regular fuse holders, weatherproof rubber capped, etc. I'm always doing projects like this. Side note, I also found that instead of buying the silly expensive blue sea or whatever fuse blocks, cbr600 fuse blocks are available from ebay for small money, have 7 circuits, two of which are fed from one power wire and 5 from another so you can have switched/unswitched circuits, all the wires exit from one place and it came from a motorcycle so it looks like it belongs on a motorcycle. I used one on my VFR, and another to wire up my Rhino. Look at the pic of the blue sea (not mine, just found on the googles) and look at how out of place it looks, and how much room it takes up because of the wires sticking out all four sides. Compare that the the CBR fuse block (found on ebay, $15) and how much less space it takes. Also note that you can either buy mating connectors for a totally plug and play solution, or since the wires themselves terminate in regular spade lugs you can just terminate your wires to match.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0453.jpg (94.8 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg bment.JPG (75.5 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg cbr.JPG (63.9 KB, 78 views)
__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.

Last edited by whodat; 10-29-2013 at 03:54 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:17 PM
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That answers the fuse question. Good work.
__________________
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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  #8  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:28 PM
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Thanks, means a lot coming from you. My goals when doing automotive/motorcycle work are the following: Make it safe, make it look as stock as possible, and pre-wire it for everything I could possibly ever want to add. I hate taking the plastic off so I try to get everything done at once so I don't have to get into it again. Forgot to mention, my voltmeter is the signal dynamics Heads Up https://signaldynamics.com/index.php...id=44&vmcchk=1 which if you look at the pic from the rear you can see at the upper left of the dash, indicating bright red therefore 12.1v-12.6v which isn't too shabby for not running and being on a trickle charger.
__________________
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon. Press
the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save the collapse and
tie up.

In order, current to oldest, *denotes still have
DL1000K5*, VFR800X, MT-16*, DL650K4, XR400R, XR650R, XR400R, FZ1, GL1000*, VF750C, CB250, GL1100, GL650, DT50. I'm sure there's others but I forgot them.
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  #9  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:53 PM
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For the tail lamps did you go with red or white LED?
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-Andy-
-2006 DL650-
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  #10  
Old 10-29-2013, 06:31 PM
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Never use a white LED behind a colored lens. So called white LEDs are not full spectrum lights. There is a very low percentage of yellow or red in them so the lens will cut the output markedly. Use yellow or red LEDs behind like colored lenses.
__________________
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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