I swapped Sonic 1.1kg springs for stock in a 2012 Glee. At 300-ish pounds, upgrading suspension is a no-brainer for me.
I wanted to put some stuff up here because I know when I'm considering modifying/ farkling, it really helps to see what/ how others have done it. I hate working on bikes/cars but finances, time, and inherent cheapness mean I DIY anything I can - and I would've loved it if someone had put this stuff up for me.
Pre-prep: you'll need a 12mm hex wrench (or socket) to remove the front wheel - they can be a little hard to find. You'll need a torque wrench that goes to 23 N-m. You'll need a vise or some means to support a fork off the bike to allow fiddling with oil. You'll need fork oil.
Prep: you'll be removing the forks. The front end of the bike will need to be supported off the ground. There are special stands, you could hang by the triple tree from overhead, you could jack/ center-stand, etc. Find a method that satisfies you. I put it up on the center stand, rocked it back, and wedged a length of 2x4 under the front section of the crash bars (I have an ADV).
More prep: loosen (but don't remove) stuff while it's together on the ground. Back the fork pre-load adjusters all the way out, loosen the the fork caps (loosen the top triple-tree pinch bolts before you try to loosen the the fork caps). Your owner's manual has instructions for removing the front wheel. Crack that axle loose while it's still on the ground (there's a pinch bolt involved, too). Take pics or make notes/ marks as to the relationship between your fork caps and the triple tree - the forks slide thru the triple tree; you'll want to put them back at the same spot they started at (unless you're raising tubes on purpose for lower ride height).
First battle: the front fender.
That innocent-looking bolt is red-loctited on to a tapped plate behind the plastic. The plastic is not strong enough to prevent the plate from spinning - you have to hold it from inside/ behind, and you can't do that with the wheel on (at least I couldn't). After an unreasonable amount of cursing...
That's the underside of the fender. To the left you're looking up the channel to the rusty-looking hole where the bolt comes thru from the outside. The "rust" is loctite. To the right is the offending tapped plate.
Strip everything off the forks:
Hang the brake calipers to prevent damage to the brake line hoses. Reflectors just spin off. Speed sensor came off during wheel removal. Fender nightmare already addressed.
When all the pinch bolts for a fork tube are loose, the fork will slide out of the triple tree towards the floor. Be prepared when you loosen that last bolt so the fork tube doesn't fall out - hold on to it or something.
Now quick forking off!!!!
... and remove the fork cap. I think it's a 22mm. Realize that there's a spring in there under some compression - when the last thread lets go the cap will want to get away from you (it's not violent, just enough to make you fumble/ drop it). The fork cap is Aluminum - be careful with it. There's a big fender washer cotter-pinned to the underside of it to prevent the pre-load adjuster from being backed all the way out of the cap.
Here's that happy little chap:
Still in the fork: a 4" long spacer (a 4" metal tube), a washer, a fork spring, and about a pint of oil. You can dump all that out and go fishing for the spacer and washer; you can fish them out of the fork; you can try to compress the top tube into the bottom tube...
Whatever you do, after either some cursing or self-satisfaction, you'll be looking at this: