(New Updated) - Changing Oil With SW-Motech Skidplate, (Photos) - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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  #21  
Old 07-07-2011, 07:25 PM
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Did my first oil change on my 2011 V-Strom earlier today. I had the dealer do the initial 600 mile one. Not totally satisified with their service after my change today.

It actually was early but I'd put just over 1500 additional miles, oil looked to be slightly above the Full mark, generally not good to overfill in my opinion, and was turning pretty dark. I know dark oil means nothing but I already bought a NAPA filter and some 15w-40 Mobil Delvac oil and decided to go ahead and change it. Glad I did, appears the "crush Washer" wasn't even tightened down. I literally could unscrew the bolt by with my fingers. So, warmed up bike, drained oil, removed filter (luckily not too tight for a strap wrench) and reversed the process. This time I actually tightened the drain bolt and saw the crush washer clinch down. Only thing I missed was catching some oil to send in to Blackstone Labs. Might have been nice to see if any issues were present in the oil. Oh well....next time.


Initially thought this was the drain plug. Anyone know what it is?
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File Type: jpg Drain.jpg (40.9 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Drain2.JPG (86.8 KB, 43 views)
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  #22  
Old 07-07-2011, 07:35 PM
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#22 is listed as a PLUG, T/M BREATHER

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  #23  
Old 07-07-2011, 09:44 PM
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I just did my first oil change 2 nights ago as well.
This was the 600 miles first oil change... I actually have a little over 900 miles on the bike
Changed the filter and oil, check for leaks... nothing... rode the bike the following day, everything appears to be okay.
Does anybody has the part number for the crush washer? I didn't change it but I will next oil change.

Thanks.
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2011, 10:09 PM
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The crush washer is good for many changes. I like the 12mm flat aluminum Honda washer better.
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  #25  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The crush washer is good for many changes. I like the 12mm flat aluminum Honda washer better.
I have never changed the crush washer in the umpteen oil changes I have done to the bike since I purchased it back in 2007.

Which is something else that I have done wrong, but the bike keeps rolling forward against the odds that I give it.
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  #26  
Old 07-08-2011, 09:44 AM
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Thanks. Glad I had trouble finding a Hex bit to fit #22 as it is partially hidden behind the exhaust!! I just didn't like the dealer leaving the "real" drain plug loose (yet not leaking) and overfilling the oil. Figured I'd give them a chance for the first service hoping they would actually find anything needing looked at. Pause for laughter to subside....... I guess the semi-constant maintenance on my 08 Royal Enfield prepared me for routine maintenance on my 11 Wee.

Thanks all.

Rick
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  #27  
Old 07-08-2011, 10:33 AM
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I recently installed the SW-Motech skid plate as well, and as a suggestion from a friend, I remove the back two bolts and drop the back half of the skid plate down, then I line the inside of the skid plate with tin foil. I use a low-profile oil drain pan (4" deep) and can remove the oil drain plug and the oil filter and let both drip onto the tin foil and down into the drain pan without any mess.

I have the bike on the side stand when I do this, as per the owner's manual. I also remove the oil filler cap to help the process 'vent'.

I also always change the filter at the same time as the oil; I never do just an oil change. When filling oil back in, I pour in 2700 ml based on the measurements on the side of the oil cartons, fire the bike up for a few minutes and check for leaks, shut it off, wait a minute or two, then check the sight glass.

Oh, and I hand tighten my oil filter. I've never had a leak and anytime I used a wrench I had to drive a screw driver through the old filter to remove it after 3,000 miles.
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  #28  
Old 07-07-2012, 12:34 AM
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I do oil changes the same as SteveWZ so thanks for adding the tin foil tip, I'll be doing that on Sunday.

I've mashed my SW Motech skidplate on rocks, logs, even a cattle guard (shitty low clearance weestrom). So my rear bolts are mangled. How do you guys get them out and what do you replace them with? Where can I get more rubber bushings to put in there? Is there a better solution?

Looking forward to some genius tips.
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  #29  
Old 07-08-2012, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Rider View Post
I do oil changes the same as SteveWZ so thanks for adding the tin foil tip, I'll be doing that on Sunday.

I've mashed my SW Motech skidplate on rocks, logs, even a cattle guard (shitty low clearance weestrom). So my rear bolts are mangled. How do you guys get them out and what do you replace them with? Where can I get more rubber bushings to put in there? Is there a better solution?

Looking forward to some genius tips.
Go to Lowe's if you have one locally. They will have all of the parts you will need in their hardware section.

But, there is a better way of doing the job.

Changing The Motor Oil With A Skidplate Installed « Black Lab Adventures
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"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night"
"In most men, there lurks a lesser man, and his presence smells in the the sun."
1961, Ernest K. Gann: "Fate Is The Hunter"
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2012, 03:38 AM
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thx for posting this, do you think the same methods will work for the 2012 skid plate? also have you heard of filling the oil filter 1/2 with oil as well? not trying to make it an oil question. no pics on here but i linked up to black lab adventures and there are some nice pics so thx again!
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