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Chain Maintenance

22K views 63 replies 32 participants last post by  SECoda 
#1 ·
The shop manual says, because of the "O" rings in the stock chain, ONLY kerosene should be used for cleaning and ONLY heavy duty motor oil should be used to 'grease' the chain. Anyone here at odds with that? I thought some type of SPRAY chain lube would be specified but I suppose I could carry around a small vial of Harley (50 WT) Oil.
 
#2 ·
I never cleaned my chain between services - but lubed the chain with Silkolene Titanium Gel every 1000 km. No discernible wear in over 64 000 km.

I'll maintain the same regime on my newer SUZI II. It seems to work okay.

Doug
 
#6 ·
Ah NO!!!! Here we go again with another chain maintenance thread. Do us all a favor, don't look at it, don't touch it, don't adjust it and certainly don't lubricate the damn thing. It will probably end up being the only thing on the bike still functioning after 5 millions miles.........

Just saying.......
 
#7 ·
Lubing often (I do after every fill-up and after every ride in the rain) has allowed the chains on my DL650's to last from 40,000 to almost 50,000 miles. I use Wurth HHS2000 but think the important thing is the frequency. I don't ever bother cleaning my chain as it doesn't do anything useful anyway.

A chain oiler that keeps the chain constantly lubed should give the best results.

..Tom
 
#42 ·
Tom,

I live in Houston, Texas. The climate ranges from hot, humid, muggy, grimey, dry, dusty, flooding or kinda cold. You name it! With my first bike I cleaned the chain religiously with a grunge brush and I'm not certain but pretty sure I caused o-rings to fray. With my current DL650 I'm going to start using your frequent lubing only method. I just rode home from work in the rain, went out and lubed the chain. We will see how she goes.
 
#9 ·
While there are a lot of threads on the subject it's good you ask as how to take care of your chain as the web is full of lots of misinformation. (Don't let those that don't understand how to skip a thread deter you from asking although it is good form to look around first and see if a subject has been discussed.)

As I have said previously I don't think the type of lube matters that much. If you do want ot use Harley Chain Lube here is what you are looking for:



:)

..Tom
 
#10 ·
I will occasionally use wd40 to clean the chain. Cleaning the chain is not a high priority. Oiling is. At home I will use 80W gear oil, on the road any reputable o-ring chain oil (Belray, castrol, PJ). I have the bad habit of prematurely changing my chain and even then I easily get 35,000 km (22000miles). On the road I will oil every 2nd fillup.

Get a good chain ( in my case DID). Your sprockets will wear out first.

Brian
 
#11 ·
Prior to the purchase, I really should have remembered the time honored lazy man's adage: Never invest in anything that eats, needs painting, or involves a chain of any sort.
Too late now.
If it rains, lube the chain.
If you wash the bike, lube the chain.
If none of that happens, lube the chain every couple fillups.
And then congratulate yourself with a couple beers.
You're a fine human being, and an example for all to emulate as best they can.
 
#24 ·
Prior to the purchase, I really should have remembered the time honored lazy man's adage: Never invest in anything that eats, needs painting, or involves a chain of any sort.

Too late now.

If it rains, lube the chain.

If you wash the bike, lube the chain.

If none of that happens, lube the chain every couple fillups.

And then congratulate yourself with a couple beers.

You're a fine human being, and an example for all to emulate as best they can.



This is the routine I use. Tho it's mostly the forget about it and lube every once in a while
 
#18 ·
I guess I've used spray lubes on 4 chains now. I averaged spray lube every 400 to 600 miles, or once a day touring. The only advantage over an oiler I've seen is a cleaner bike, but spray lube always gives me shorter chain life. I like the Original Bike Spirits chain lube, its very much like the Dupont Dry Lube yet it sticks better. Honda Pro has some good chain lubes, the normal one is good for pavement pounders. Always disliked Maxima chain wax and those like it, they attract way too much dirt.

Chains lubed with 30 weight in winter and gear lube in the summer just stretched beyond service life. No sudden failures, no rollers spitting out as I ride. There are benefits to using the oil method and just wiping the chain down if it every needs it. Oiled chains stay clean on their own actually. I just don't like doing the oil method manually, but a loobman or tutoro manual is less than $40 right now I think. Doesn't take long to be budget friendly, oil is cheap too.

I've found my counter sprocket is hooked bad by 12,000 miles, I try and put a new one on at 10,000. That helps with chain life. With the Turtoro Auto out now, its reasonable to run an automatic oiler, no vacumn tie in like the Scotts, very simple install.

The big thing is checking for stretch and condition every tire change at least. Don't run a chain beyond its specification, measure the sucker occasionally. If its all red inside the side plates or an o-ring is missing or a roller is cracked, get a new chain. I've had one fail on the road, it ain't pleasant.
 
#19 ·
I guess I've used spray lubes on 4 chains now. I averaged spray lube every 400 to 600 miles, or once a day touring. The only advantage over an oiler I've seen is a cleaner bike, but spray lube always gives me shorter chain life. I like the Original Bike Spirits chain lube, its very much like the Dupont Dry Lube yet it sticks better. Honda Pro has some good chain lubes, the normal one is good for pavement pounders. Always disliked Maxima chain wax and those like it, they attract way too much dirt.

Chains lubed with 30 weight in winter and gear lube in the summer just stretched beyond service life. No sudden failures, no rollers spitting out as I ride. There are benefits to using the oil method and just wiping the chain down if it every needs it. Oiled chains stay clean on their own actually. I just don't like doing the oil method manually, but a loobman or tutoro manual is less than $40 right now I think. Doesn't take long to be budget friendly, oil is cheap too.

I've found my counter sprocket is hooked bad by 12,000 miles, I try and put a new one on at 10,000. That helps with chain life. With the Turtoro Auto out now, its reasonable to run an automatic oiler, no vacumn tie in like the Scotts, very simple install.

The big thing is checking for stretch and condition every tire change at least. Don't run a chain beyond its specification, measure the sucker occasionally. If its all red inside the side plates or an o-ring is missing or a roller is cracked, get a new chain. I've had one fail on the road, it ain't pleasant.
Something is not right, I went through a chain and a half on my 1000 and the front sprocket still looked decent. :confused:
 
#20 ·
Ignore the manual suggested - especially the motor oil (that's a dirt magnet)....there's plenty on this site regarding what people use to keep corrosion at bay on the outside of the chain - use the search. That said, the O-rings exist to keep the lube exactly where the chain manufacturer wants the lube. The chain requires no other additional lubrication - I've written the tech dept. of a few O-ring chain mfg'rs to get their say on it, and they unanimously agree that O-ring chains don't require the user to lube the chain - only that IF they spray it down, wipe off the excess (to prevent dust/dirt sticking), and go ride for 20,000 miles til it's worn out.

Sure, if you like a clean chain, kerosene works fine, some use simple green. Dirt is the enemy of the somewhat delicate O-rings, so be careful of using lubes (motor oil, sticky motocross non-o'ring chain lubes) that dirt sticks to - you will create an abrasive paste exactly where you don't want (on the O-rings)...and if you want to keep the rollers from getting rusty, select your fave lube and apply as needed to keep the rust/corrosion at bay. I will add, that the rollers do not rotate, but merely protect the chain pins and fit into the chainring grooves - that's all they do - no lube needed underneath, since the rotation is negligible (according to the chain mfg. techs).

I do use Dupont teflon spray lube (sold at lowe's or home depot), since it's cheap, doesn't hold dirt/dust, and keeps the rust off my chain's side plates/rollers/etc.
 
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#21 ·
Ignore the manual suggested - especially the motor oil (that's a dirt magnet)....there's plenty on this site regarding what people use to keep corrosion at bay on the outside of the chain - use the search. That said, the O-rings exist to keep the lube exactly where the chain manufacturer wants the lube. The chain requires no other additional lubrication - I've written the tech dept. of a few O-ring chain mfg'rs to get their say on it, and they unanimously agree that O-ring chains don't require the user to lube the chain - only that IF they spray it down, wipe off the excess (to prevent dust/dirt sticking), and go ride for 20,000 miles til it's worn out.

...
Yes if you don't want your chain to last more than 20,000 or 30,000 miles then don't do anything.

If you would like your chain to last a lot longer - say 40,000 to 50,000 miles - then Lubing the chain often (after every fill-up and after every rain-ride) will pay huge dividends.

..Tom
 
#25 · (Edited)
Longest lasting chain for me was on my DR650 with a Tutoro, I probably could have hit 24K, but I sold the bike before finding out. I know with gear oil my chains run smoother and have zero rust, they ain't ever going to make 50,000 miles though. What impressed me about chain oilers is the lack of kinking and my plain jane 520 EK o-ring out lasted a much nicer 525 chain with dupot spray done every 400 miles on my daily ride to work or after a rain ride.

I ride on dirt every time I leave my house now, all weather touring rider here in rural Alabama. I've never seen more than 20K ever on lubed and wiped down chains between 3 different motorcycles using a few different chain lubes over the years. The only way I've seen 20K plus is with an on bike chain oiler. Another 1000 Strom rider here told my he gets around 23K from a good quality DID 525 using dupont chain saver and he is 100% pavement on pure street tires. I figure my chert road I live off of shortens my chain life a lot. I ride for fun and don't poke along either. I would love to get 23,000 miles from a chain before exceeding the service spec, but I don't want to slow down or stay on pavement.

The main thing I've learned is most spray chain lubes attract dirt and makes things worse, a dirt paste stuck to the chain can't be good. I doubt I'll ever see 10,000 miles from a rear tire either, I'm on the wear bars at 5500 usually with a regular Tourance. At 6,000 the center is about smooth. My last 3 rears went less than 6K. I had fun though.
 
#27 ·
As far as I see the manual doesn't actually specify any "special Lube' but just says to use a commercial chain lube.

My experience is that lubing more often that Suzuki says and more like what Triumph says has roughly doubled the chain life on my DL650's so the lube is doing something somewhere.

..Tom
 
#28 ·
This seems teh most appropriate place to toss in a few questions - never had a bike with a sealed chain before and want to make sure I do right by it because I'm a cheap bastard and want the chain to last.
1: Chain brush - those brushes with 3 surfaces - yea or nay. Some say they pound the crud in, others say it is efficient for getting the crud off.

2: "Wax" chain lube - yea or nay. Some folks say it protects the chain, others claim it's useless.

3: Wipe off with kerosene as per manual or just wipe with a rag and something wet (like oil) to collect the crud?

4: Teflon spray from Lowes - this seems to be popular with Strom owners - is there a good reason?

Thx!

PS: I get a chain noise that sounds like a "hissing" or maybe like BB's being swirled in a coffee can - I was told that is a dry chain but that makes no sense to me being it's a sealed chain. It happens at 3K RPM or higher on light to steady acceleration. Loud enough I hear it echoed off walls and stuff.
 
#32 ·
Old tooth brush, Kerosene, light pressure on sides, outer, inner of chain while rotating rear by hand. Towel/rag whip off...repeat...then lube, let set, then ride.
 
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#36 ·
Clean your chain if you like the way it looks when clean. Shut the bike off and just wipe the chain with solvent on a rag. Otherwise, just lube it. Almost anything works as a lube. WD-40 is a really weak lube, and some people like it on a chain. Others use ATF, gear oil, any type of labeled chain lube, and it all seems to work OK. Here's what I use...Schaeffer Oil | Moly Roller Chain Lube, Chain Lubricant

DO NOT GET YOUR FINGERS BETWEEN THE SPROCKET AND THE CHAIN. IT'LL CUT YOUR FINGERS OFF, EVEN IF YOU'RE JUST ROLLING THE WHEEL OVER BY HAND. DO NOT ALLOW A RAG TO GET PULLED INTO THE CHAIN; IT'LL PULL YOUR HAND IN.
 
#38 ·
You'll read, and be told, to never put a new chain on old sprockets... well, I put a new chain on old sprockets, and they lasted 35,000kms. Even now, I could I think reuse the sprockets on my third chain. But I got a deal on a complete x-ring kit from D.I.D. so they are all getting replaced.

In this picture your front sprocket looks a worn just a very little bit... Or maybe it's just the angle of the camera to the teeth. A front sprocket is cheap ~$20 I think? Just make sure it's a good steel one, not a "light weight aluminum" one. The only problem is the after market, non-Suzuki sprockets don't have the rubber damper rings on them, so they are a wee bit noisier.
 
#39 ·
Aggie, chains don't actually stretch much. They wear. The pins and bushings wear so they're sloppy and measure longer. If you get that "stretch" wear, or can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at 3:00, or if you have tight links, your chain is dying.

The sprockets have some wear. The risk is that your next chain won't live as long on worn sprockets as it would on new sprockets.
 
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#40 · (Edited)
My current chain has 50,000 km (bit over 30,000 miles). No visible kinking, or rust and sprockets look pretty good. I plan on replacing the chain and sprockets as a preventative measure this winter on account of some longer trips next year. I don't red line or push the bike too hard...just about to put my third set of tires on now. I do ride two up with heavy cases around 25% of the time, most of my riding is under 100 km per hour (60 mph). I wash my chain with kerosene annually and yes I use a brush, however I lube it a lot. I ride on gravel but not on dusty roads too often. If chain gets dusty or grungy, I give a quick wipe with kerosene. Chain is lubed after every ride in the rain and each daily stop on a longer trip. Also at each fill up. There are many variables here and everyone will have different experiences depending on their conditions.
 
#48 ·
Do it right away. The chain lube will displace or repel most of the water to keep it from causing rust.
 
#52 · (Edited)
Yes as Greywolf says I lube right away. I carry a can of lube in my Tank Bag. If I hit rain on the way to work I will immediately take the 20 seconds or so it takes to lube the chain when I get off the bike. (Besides if it's still raining my gear keeps my dry while I lube the chain.)

..Tom
 
#54 ·
Yes as Greywolf says I lube right away. I carry a can of lube in my Tank Bag. If I hit rain on the way to work I will immediately take the 20 seconds or so it takes to lube the chain when I get off the bike. (Besides if it's still raining my gear keeps my dry while I chain.)

..Tom
Thanks... Do you have a center stand? i don't but I really want to follow your lead so I will give it a go. I'll just have to roll the bike around the parking garage ;)
 
#53 ·
Recently fitted Cameleon chain oiler, when set up right it keeps the chain nicely oiled. After dusty rides I just wipe the chain with a rag to get the muck off. Seems to be working well at the moment.
 
#63 ·
I hope you have better luck with yours than I had with mine. Getting the nozzle to stay in the right position without a bracket to hold it steady is the issue I experienced. I've gone through three nozzles in less than a year and now mine is just turned off. I'll probably be going back to the spray can. 15 seconds to spray the chain is pretty simple. I believe the only time the Tutoro was a benefit (when it worked) was when I was on all day trips.
 
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