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#1
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Upon returning from my recent Gaspe Peninsula trip, my front TKC-80 was worn out. I decided to change and balance a new tire myself. I first tackled this "How To" procedure, when I hit a rock in Canada in the late Spring, and ended up with a rear tire, sidewall puncture. I got stuck in a campground for 3 days until a new tire could be delivered. I dismounted the damaged tire and mounted a new tire and rode away, (Thanks to PM input from forum member "cheff". I would probably still be stuck there!).
Doing this at home, it is in a little more friendly enviornment! (I strongly urge practicing some form of tire repair techniques.) NOTE: All the work is being done on a 2007 DL-650. NOTE: There are many ways to change a tire. My focus was to use very simple tools; tools that you should be carrying with you on your bike, at the very least, on trips. I carry the tools used in this tutorial at all times. 01- Park motorcycle on firm, flat surface and up on its centerstand. 02- Loosen axle pinch bolt. The pinch bolt does NOT need to be removed from the fork tube. 12mm socket. ![]() 03- Loosen brake caliper bolts. Two bolts per caliper. 14mm socket. ![]() EDIT: 07-24-2009 To remove the front wheel, you only need to remove one caliper. I remove the right one. I remove this one because I am on that side of the bike removing the axle bolt and pinch bolt. 04- Remove brake calipers and tie them out of the way. I temporarily wired my calipers to my PIAA light bar. ![]() 05- Remove speedometer cable clips. Right fork. 8mm socket. ![]() 06- Loosen axle bolt. 12mm hex socket. ![]() 07- Slide a jack underneath your skidplate, (You do have one, don't you?), and jack up the motorcycle so the rear wheel touches your work surface creating a "quad-pod effect" between the two feet of the centerstand, the rear wheel and the jack. The front wheel will be off of the ground. ![]() 08- Place some blocking underneath the front wheel to support it when you remove the axle bolt. I used two wooden wedges. ![]() 09- With the front wheel supported by the blocking, remove the axle and then the wheel from the motorcycle. ![]() ![]() 10- Place the wheel and tire assembly on some sort of "blocking". I used my old rear TKC-80 tire for support of the wheel assembly. By working off of the ground, it eliminates the need for removing the brake discs from each side of the wheel. Otherwise, you have a really good chance of breaking them! ![]() 11- Remove the valve stem core with a core removal tool. ![]() ![]() 12- Next, slip a tire iron between the wheel rim and the tire. (I am an advocate of short, but sturdy tire irons. I own a pair of 8" Motion Pro tire irons. I applied "cable strength" heat shrink to the irons to help against marring my rims.). Insert the second tire iron between the wheel rim and tire about 8" away from the first iron. The irons should be "spoon face" facing up. Push down on the irons. Shift the irons one at a time and keep pushing down. What you are doing is, "breaking the bead". ![]() 13- You will see that a gap is forming between the rim and the tire. At this point, flip over one of the tire irons so that it is "spoon face" down and shove it inbetween the wheel rim and tire. ![]() 14- Once the "spoon face down" iron is locked into place, press downward. Go ahead and add the weight of your knees and shoulders as well. The tire will "break away" from the rim. ![]() Continued in Part Two.
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2007 DL-650 (111,000 + miles) "A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours." 1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night" "In most men, there lurks a lesser man, and his presence smells in the the sun." 1961, Ernest K. Gann: "Fate Is The Hunter" Last edited by Black Lab; 01-18-2011 at 05:53 PM. |
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#2
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15- The tire will be pretty loose by now. Press downward with your hands and break the tire fully free of the rim.
![]() 16- Flip the wheel and tire assembly over on your blocking and break the bead on the other side. 17- With the tire beads free from the wheel on both sides, force a part of the tire up into the wheel. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! Push the tire up into the rim cavity as far as you can, (thank you cheff), and hold it there with your knees. Place your two tire irons underneath the tire bead, spoon face up. (I like short irons because they don't interfere with the brake discs. Mine sit right underneath the brake disc which acts as another set of hands.). Push downward with the tire irons and lift up a portion of the tire bead so that it clears the wheel rim. ![]() 18- With one tire iron locked underneath the brake disc, grab the other and start to slide it around the rim, just like you would see a machine remove a tire. You may have to stop and reset the tire irons to get another "bite" to finish removing one side of the tire from the rim. ![]() ![]() 19- With one side of the tire removed from the rim, stand the wheel and tire assembly up. You can almost push the other side of the tire off of the wheel rim, but you will probably need a little tire iron help to finish the job. ![]() At this point, you should be hoping that none of your riding buddies call you to go for a ride.......... 20- With your rim lying on the blocking, place your new tire on top of the rim. Every motorcycle tire has a mark on it somewhere that tells you the direction of rotation that the tire needs to be mounted on to your rim. On the used Tourance that I mounted, the arrow of direction was on the right side of the tire. So, I made sure that I had the right side of the wheel facing upward on my blocking, (The side opposite the speedometer connection.), and I placed the Tourance on top of the wheel. I checked and rechecked and checked this again! ![]() 21- Using my weight and with the help of a tire iron, I slipped the right tire bead over the wheel rim edge. 22- Next, I pushed the other side of the new tire up into the wheel rim and started my two tire irons underneath the tire bead. ![]() 23- Using the same "sliding" technique that I used to remove the old tire, I pulled one tire iron around the wheel rim, slipping the rest of the bead of the new tire over the wheel rim edge and down into the wheel cavity. ![]() 24- Next I installed the valve stem core and then "compressed" the tire to the rim with a cinch strap. ![]() 25- I hooked up my 12v air compressor to my 12v outlet on my bike. I started my motorcycle in nuetral. I connected the inflation hose to the valve stem and turned on the compressor. When the tire started to become hard, I removed the cinch strap and let the tire come up to pressure; hearing the beads "pop" into place. I continued to inflate the tire. ![]() 26- Once the tire was up to pressure, I disconnected the inflation hose from the valve stem, shut off the pump and turned off my motorcycle. I listened for leaks. I spent a little time reorganizing my tools and again listened for leaks. I checked the air pressure. I answered a phone call...... I answered a second phone call........ I checked the air pressure again. It was holding fine. Next I wanted to balance my tire. I had decided to remove the Dynabeads from the TKC-80 when I changed to the Tourance, because I wanted to experiment with a "home brewed" method of balancing a tire. I grabbed two 5 gallon joint compound buckets and placed a board across each of them. I slid the front axle back into the wheel assembly and placed the whole thing up on the boards; the axle was bridging the boards. I used a wooden wedge to "eyeball" level the axle and wheel assembly. I gave the a light touch to the wheel and watched it spin. The "heavy side" came to rest at the bottom. Check out the quick little video below. ![]() A friend gave me a strip of stick-on wheel weights. ![]() I snapped one in half and stuck it on one side of the rim on the "high side" and gave the wheel a spin again. It looked pretty close!!!! So, I stuck the other half of the weight on the other side of the rim and gave the wheel a spin. I did this a couple of times. Each time, the wheel came to rest in a different spot with no indication of a "heavy side". ![]() EDIT: June 26, 2009. The following link will show you another way to balance your tires using Dynabeads. Dynabeads are exculsively how I balance my tires now. Balancing tires with Dynabeads From here, mount up your wheel and new tire back on to your bike. 01- Roll the wheel underneath the front fender. 02- Support the wheel assembly with some blocking to lift it up in line with the axle holes in the forks. 03- Slide the axle bolt through the right fork, wheel, speedometer housing and left fork; snug-tighten. 04- Lower the jack and get the front wheel back on the ground. 05- Torque the front axle to 47.0 lb-ft. 06- Place thread lock on the axle pinch bolt and torque to 16.5 lb-ft. 07- Place thread lock on brake caliper bolts and torque to 28.0 lb-ft. 08- Fasten the speedometer cable clips back in place. 09- Check tire pressure again. 10- Go for a ride. I plan to do the rear tire in the near future in the same manner. Barry B.
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2007 DL-650 (111,000 + miles) "A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours." 1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night" "In most men, there lurks a lesser man, and his presence smells in the the sun." 1961, Ernest K. Gann: "Fate Is The Hunter" Last edited by Black Lab; 01-18-2011 at 06:00 PM. |
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Nice tutorial there Black Lab. Good Job!!
RR |
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#4
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Hell of a write up! And pics to boot. Thanks for sharing.
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DL650K7 The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt.--Bertrand Russell |
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#5
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Everybody should do this at least once, just to prove they can. Other methods of breaking the bead include a big C-clamp and a homemade long-handled 2x4 lever. Soapy water is a good lubricant for brand new sticky tires as you work around the rim.
Nice report, Barry!
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-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O) This message and images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. http://creativecommons.org |
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#6
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Quote:
I intentionally didn't use a lubricant, 2 x 4, C-clamp, ect. I just used the tools that I carry with me at all times. I've gotten pretty confident in my use of them which removes the, "I don't know if I want to ride there. I don't know the road and I may get a flat tire." from my head. It opens the riding horizon that much more. B.
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2007 DL-650 (111,000 + miles) "A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours." 1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night" "In most men, there lurks a lesser man, and his presence smells in the the sun." 1961, Ernest K. Gann: "Fate Is The Hunter" |
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#7
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Quote:
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Rich Desmond '07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848 |
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#8
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Nice writeup Barry! I notice you have a bash plate on yours can you use a floor jack and a piece of wood without a bash plate and would it be better to put it under the motor or the exhaust?
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Kevin L2 DL650A The Orange Machine K7 DL650 Hi Yo Silver R.I.P! |
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#9
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I used a regular car jack and small block of wood under the engine before I got a bash plate.
__________________
-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O) This message and images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. http://creativecommons.org |
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#10
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Excellent writeup. I may just change the WABS tires out myself before winter hits, and I'll definitely be referring back to this. Thanks!
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'09 VStrom DL650A - Sold. '04 Suzuki Burgman 400 - The wifes '08 FJR1300AE - Miss Chievous. WWGWD? ![]()
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