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How to change the stator on a DL1000

52K views 56 replies 29 participants last post by  Doggs 
#1 · (Edited)
Bike's battery won't charge? It might be your stator. First diagnose the charging system per the service manual, and if you determine your stator is bad, here's how you change it out:

1. Remove seat, left side panel under seat and plastic skid plate, disconnect battery and drain oil (not sure if you need to do this, but I did). I also had the tank raised because I changed the spark plugs:



2. Disconnect the two black connectors near the regulator/rectifier underneath the side panel, below the seat:



3. Snip the zip tie that holds the harness to the frame:



4. Remove all the bolts around the left side engine case and the clutch slave cylinder:



5. Remove the left side engine case and feed the connected wiring harness off the bike from behind the frame. You'll find the stator bolted to the back of the engine case with 6 allen head bolts. Remove them and remove the bad stator, and remove and discard the gasket between the engine and the engine case you removed:





 
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#2 ·
Grab your new gasket and stator. I ordered mine from MR Cycles to the tune of about $225 shipped for both:



Old vs. New



Bolt the new stator in place, and press the rubber grommet into the slot in the engine case:



Replace the gasket, and bolt the engine case back into place:



Feed the wiring harness behind the frame and back to the regulator/rectifier. Connect the electrical connectors:




Zip tie the harness into place, bolt the clutch slave cylinder back into place, and replace the side panels and the seat:

 
#3 ·
That's it! Fill it up with oil, re-connect the battery and fire it up. Finally, for god sakes wash all the filth off that bike!!!

Questions?
 
#6 ·
I only found one other stator available, and it was an OEM replacement, nothing I found about it suggested that it was of higher power. I did read about one called Electrosport that was of higher power, but they quit making one for the 1000 due to fitment issues. I decided OEM was the way to go.
 
#7 ·
I did read about one called Electrosport that was of higher power, but they quit making one for the 1000 due to fitment issues. I decided OEM was the way to go.
That's the one I was thinking about (couldn't remember the name) and I hadn't heard about the fitment issue. That kinda makes your decision a little easier...
 
#9 ·
Um, good question. I'm not sure, so I just used a common sense amount of torque. They came out pretty easily, so the torque value is not too high, and there was no thread lock used from the factory so I didn't use any.
 
#11 ·
Before this happened I didn't really even know how the charging system worked. It was a good learning experience, and knock on wood, so far everything's running perfectly. I will need new tires soon though, the moaning from these stockers is really getting on my nerves.
 
#12 ·
Maybe better the Electrosport stator wasn't available. My bike won't charge (only 25K and no accessories - go figure) so I tried to replace the voltage regulator with an Electrosport replacement form Dennis Kirk. Both the connectors are wrong so it is going back. It looks to be a quite cheaply produced item, made in China.

Thanks for the write up. I suspect I'll be following it for real.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Thanks in advance for this tutorial. I'm about to DIY my burnt out stator and hopefully save a few hundred bucks in shop labor.

Couple questions though.

After replacing and sealing it back up, do you get any error codes? Is there a way to test that you've installed it correctly, without having to power it on?

<edit>
Also, there are two model numbers for the stator. Which one for a 2006 DL1000?
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the photos!


But I'm wondering -- why on Earth does Suzuki bundle the crank angle sensor with the stator? :confused:

No wonder the damn thing is so %$#@! expensive! :furious:

I've replaced stators on other bikes with a similar setup, and all you have to do is either slit the grommet to R/R the wires and re-seal it with a dab of case sealer or silicone. Or, snip the old connectors, pull the wires through the grommet, push the new stator wires back through, then install the new connectors. (Or splice in the old connector.)
 
#16 ·
Loose rotor magnets

After encountering that dead battery on my DL1000, replacing the mosfet, testing the stator (tested good), decided to order a new stator. Since it appeared simple to do, I went into the magneto cover and discovered that the original stator looked good no discoloring. That explains the testing results were correct. However, I also discovered one of the flywheel magnets was stuck onto the stator at removal. I also noticed all the remaing magnets were loose and bunched up together. Great! At least I now know the fault. I am going to order a new rotor and have already ordered the flywheel puller. Two concerns at this moment. I read on another thread of a second that is needed to install a new rotor. Does anyone know about that?
Also, some washers, spacers and gears fell out of that area. I want to confirm reinstalling those and wonder if anyone can direct me to a diagram for those.
 
#18 · (Edited)



I had that suprise also......

Wanted to check my rotor for shifted magnets..............

 
#20 ·
Left over piece....

I began my stator removal and replacement about a month or two ago and due to incorrect parts and the need for returns and life in general getting in the way, I am now just getting back to putting things together. thanks for the pictures above that i used as a guide to where all the pieces that fell out way back when i opened the cover. I have one more mystery piece...and i am not sure it even belongs in the stator side of the motor, but maybe it does....
anyone know what this is and where it should go? it is aluminum and about two inches long

 
#21 ·
It looks like #33.
 
#23 ·
Excellent Help!! Thank You!!! Just a few issues... There's 3 larger Allen bolts holding the Stator, and 3 smaller ones for the electrics (Maybe that's what you meant by 6)... also, I went with ElectroSport (on the promise of higher output, which they claim is 20% more) and there were no fitment problems, at all (as stated, in previous posts)... it's most likely made for multiple bikes, so the screw hole placement makes it sit about 20 degrees off OEM, but it works fine, and there's enough wire... and Yes, you absolutely have to drain the oil, first. Watch out for little gears inside that might (will) fall out, and the little pin on the top of the case, when you separate it from the engine (it might fall in the crankcase, and that would suck!!). It feels tough to get off, at first, but pull it straight out, with a little wiggle, and it will come off... A project, I wish I didn't have to do, but was fortuitous, in several regards... It's not an overly difficult job, that anyone, with a bit of mechanical wit, can do...
 
#24 ·
rotor problem again

2 years and I am dealing with the same problem. I suspect the magnets have come loose and are bunched up. Mosfet RR been tested. Stator also tested.
Magneto cover coming off this weekend, lets see what I find. I wonder whats up with magnets coming loose. Last December I resolved the chudder issue with a new basket from realshelby. Now very smooth. I wonder if chudder previously had anything to do with magnets getting loose? I will post when the cover comes off.
 
#25 ·
2 years and I am dealing with the same problem. I suspect the magnets have come loose and are bunched up. Mosfet RR been tested. Stator also tested.
Magneto cover coming off this weekend, lets see what I find. I wonder whats up with magnets coming loose. Last December I resolved the chudder issue with a new basket from realshelby. Now very smooth. I wonder if chudder previously had anything to do with magnets getting loose? I will post when the cover comes off.
Think I will check my 06 over the Winter.
 
#26 ·
2008 DL1000 Stator Replacement

Just installed a stator in my 2008 DL1000.

Thanks to MZB, your original post & photos gave me the nerve to give this a shot; and thanks to Heavy-H, your photos were most helpful in reassembling all the little bits and pieces that come dropping out when you pull the cover.

I didn't need to drain the oil, although I did put it on the centerstand on my driveway, which slopes, so it had a slight lean to the right. Not a drop came out - the bike was NOT very stable like this though. You could probably get the same results with a 1x4" board under one leg of the stand.

Something else that helped me in diagnosing my 2008 that I haven't found in any other threads... There's a KLV service manual online with K3 and K4 supplements... The R/R plug and test procedure for the 2008 matches what's in the K3 supplement, not in the main manual. Those supplements don't exist at all in the legit Suzuki manual I have, only in the bootleg KLV!
 
#27 ·
Just installed a stator in my 2008 DL1000.

Thanks to MZB, your original post & photos gave me the nerve to give this a shot; and thanks to Heavy-H, your photos were most helpful in reassembling all the little bits and pieces that come dropping out when you pull the cover.

I didn't need to drain the oil, although I did put it on the centerstand on my driveway, which slopes, so it had a slight lean to the right. Not a drop came out - the bike was NOT very stable like this though. You could probably get the same results with a 1x4" board under one leg of the stand.

Something else that helped me in diagnosing my 2008 that I haven't found in any other threads... There's a KLV service manual online with K3 and K4 supplements... The R/R plug and test procedure for the 2008 matches what's in the K3 supplement, not in the main manual. Those supplements don't exist at all in the legit Suzuki manual I have, only in the bootleg KLV!
Think I have that KLV manual, and I hope that by me running my oil level clear up to the full mark makes a difference in keeping things cool. Although WHY the magnets are coming loose is complete bullcrap!:thumbdown:
 
#28 ·
Stator

Excellent how to thanks.I got a new stator from ricks electric motorsports but it did not come with a pickup unit.Should I get a new pickup unit or just use the old one? My 2003 Strom has 63k miles and its the first major thing that has gone wrong with the bike . I had a bad wreck a couple years ago and broke my tibia, fibula and ankle.
The bike faired better than I did .
When you remove the clutch slave parts does anything fall out?I will be working in my garage on a motorcycle jack type lift so it will be close to the ground. I wish I had the table lift as it is hard from me to bend down a lot with bad ankle .Wish me luck.
 
#29 ·
You will have to use the old pickup sensor. I didn't know the Ricks/Electrosport stators did not come with that? The sensor is part of the OEM stator and not available separate.

There is a spacer behind one of the bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder. Pay attention to that and the length of the bolts.
 
#30 ·
Ok I will ,its the litle things that mess up jobs.I have done mechanical work in the past on my vehicles I used to put clutches in my dodge truck and rebuilt the top end of same .That was a long time ago .I will make a holder for the stator bolts so I get them back in the same hole. I live close to work so I still drive the strom back and forth as long as I keep the battery charged .If it gets below 12 volts the bike runs crappy as the fuel system needs 12 volts.
 
#32 ·
It doesn't look good. MZ hasn't been on the site in over a year and I'm pretty sure he was hosting them at another site. Its a pretty safe bet they're gone.

Its pretty straight forward, I had to replace the stator on my 02. Do you have the service manual? That's what I used and was a pretty simple procedure, couple hours tops.
 
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