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How to change the stator on a DL1000

52K views 56 replies 29 participants last post by  Doggs 
#1 · (Edited)
Bike's battery won't charge? It might be your stator. First diagnose the charging system per the service manual, and if you determine your stator is bad, here's how you change it out:

1. Remove seat, left side panel under seat and plastic skid plate, disconnect battery and drain oil (not sure if you need to do this, but I did). I also had the tank raised because I changed the spark plugs:



2. Disconnect the two black connectors near the regulator/rectifier underneath the side panel, below the seat:



3. Snip the zip tie that holds the harness to the frame:



4. Remove all the bolts around the left side engine case and the clutch slave cylinder:



5. Remove the left side engine case and feed the connected wiring harness off the bike from behind the frame. You'll find the stator bolted to the back of the engine case with 6 allen head bolts. Remove them and remove the bad stator, and remove and discard the gasket between the engine and the engine case you removed:





 
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#35 ·
Thanks for the moral support. I will give it a go this weekend. Monday is a public holiday in Adelaide.
The only thing that concerns me is the earlier comment. "Watch out for little gears inside that might (will) fall out, and the little pin on the top of the case, when you separate it from the engine"

Cheers
Col
 
#39 ·
All gaps should be equal. If not, there is a loose magnet problem.
 
#41 ·
Yes! There are a number of owners that had rotor magnets loose and fixed them in proper place with JB Weld. No reports I have heard of problems doing that. There are also several that have filled the gaps in perfectly good rotors with JB Weld as a preventative measure. I would certainly do that if I owned a Vee again.
 
#42 ·
The magnets are on the rotor, not the stator. Some people have added JB-Weld between the magnets and even on the edge. There is steel in the epoxy so it will creep along the magnetic lines of force. Small amounts will keep the magnets from moving.
 
#43 ·
I also did this, OEM was the best reliable replacement, in fact I almost always go with OEM replacements (call me boring) even on my 4 wheel vehicles. Dont be intimidated, save yourself some cash and learn more about your ride, do the replacement yourself, and take pictures before you dissasemble... just in case you don't have an Illustrated Parts Catalog handy, so you know how everything goes back together. Good luck, and enjoy!
 
#44 ·
I'm tackling this project now and found that most of the magnets are pushed together with one big gap between them. They are not loose enough for me to pull them out and I really don't want to force it and risk breaking them. Any advice?



I also had this spacer and washer drop out when I removed the cover. any idea of where they go?




I'm assuming they are part of the pin on the cover that hold this gear in place?

 
#45 ·
You have the older design rotor with the holes in it. I can see them in the pic. These are supposed to be between the magnets. That gives you an idea how much they have moved and where you need to start aligning them. The spacer/washer are from the starter gear. You can look up an exploded view to verify where they go back.
 
#47 · (Edited)
You can try and remove the mags, take the fly wheel aka rotor off and stick it in an oven. Probably 450 degrees or higher and that should soften the adhesive for easy removal. I haven't tried it yet, but a few say they have glued them back with the high strength JB weld. They make two kinds of JB weld, so get the right one. Or use an epoxy without metal in it, Loc tite makes a high temp automotive adhesive I think. Haven't looked in a while.

My old fly wheel looks the same, probably this winter I'll bake mine and see if I can save it. It ain't a cheap part, if you have time its worth trying to bake them off and re glue. When mine totally failed I was in a hurry for a trip, so I just bought a new one from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, they had the best online price at the time. OEM parts are pricey!
 
#48 ·
Thankfully, there is no need to listen to my wife :furious: about using her oven, as i found out that the magnets, if they have moved can be "sled" into a new orientation with applying just a little bit of elbow grease. While trying to carefully lift one magnet off with a screwdriver, i noticed it slid a little bit. After that, i just aligned them all in place by hand by simply sliding them left to right as opposed to pulling them out. just took a small break, but will be back later ans continue on with the JB weld process and report back. I guess i'm lucky they just shifted and not came loose!
 
#49 ·
Post the pics you pm'd me. That will show others how simple the JB Weld fix can be. No need to get carried away with it. Just enough to bridge the gap between the magnets. Not necessary to FILL the gap, that leads to too much work and usually a messy job.
 
#50 ·
So here are the pics of the process. I used a wooden BBQ skewer cut in half to ensure I wasn't putting on too much JB weld all at once. It was slow but precise. After about 2.5 hrs, I made sure there was no weld formula sticking on top of any of the magnets. its been 24 hours since and I am happy with the result. I will begin the process of putting on the new gasket and securing everything in place. I'll let the RTV sealer on the gasket cure until tomorrow night and I will then add oil and start her up to see if the results in voltage. I know an oil change was not necessary, but I needed to do it anyways :wink2:

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#51 ·
By any chance is there a pictorial or series of posts on the alternator modification from the OEM type to the improved version?
K6V2
thanks,
 
#52 ·
Not sure what you are meaning by the "improved version"? I don't figure the 2014+ Vee rotors are interchangeable as the crankshaft is different.

If you mean the "JB WELD FIX", then on the previous page are good pics of what you want to do. Do a search in the Google custom search box at the top of the page. Put in JB Weld Fix and see what you find.
 
#53 ·
I mean the change that goes from series, to R/R, something like that.
The result is supposed to be less wattage produced that serves no purpose and causes stator failures? thanks.
 
#57 ·
Stator Removal

Hello there,
if anyone is still in need of a guide of how to access stator on 2002-2010 Suzuki DL1000, here it is. Figured i can take few pics along the way to possibly assist for those less knowledgeable.

*DISCLAIMER* I am no expert and did everything by research and own experimenting, this worked and should for you too, i am not responsible for any.. anything really.
There are people who tilt the bike on the right side to prevent oil draining when opening the stator cover, i simply drained it into a pan and then reused it. Do whatever makes you happy here.
I'm assuming you know how to take off rear left fairing to access the needed plugs from regulator/rectifier. We continue from there onward.


Unplug the connector from regulator/rectifier to the stator (black plug) as marked on the picture.



You will then need to unplug another connector that is in the same harness as the plug you just disconnected.
Also note the cable tie on the left side of the marked area, this cable tie can be unhooked and reused, no need to cut it.



Pull the cable from under the frame, you might need to wiggle it a little as it's probably constricted by another cables.



Now you want to disconnect the 'Speed sensor' (No. 1) and the 'Clutch slave cylinder' (No. 2).
After you're done with all bolts, to get the 'Clutch slave cylinder' off you might need to trigger clutch lever few times to pump it out.



Next on the list is to unbolt the front sprocket cover, 3 bolts as marked on the picture.



I suggest you get a piece of cardboard or a paper and draw similar outline of the cover you are about to unscrew, then poke each bolt to roughly same position on the cardboard to memorize the position of each bolt, some of them differ in size and this seemed like the easiest way to not mess things up if you ask me.



What's left is to open the cover, you will feel it's being pulled by magnetic force, so simply give it a little force, if it's stuck or not moving at all don't brute force it, inspect what is causing it, while under magnetic force it should be pretty smooth removal. Also at this point you would want to place your oil tray underneath to catch any leftover oil in the casing or use a rag, there shouldn't be much left if you drained the oil earlier.

Congratulations, you have gained yourself an access to the stator of the motorbike.



What's left is to undo 3 bolts on stator, 1 on a little clip that's just pinning the cable down and 2 holding down the rest of the cable. Stator is now free to remove.






I would also mention that this is probably the best time to clean most of what you can that accumulated around uncovered areas throughout the years.
I bought motorbike with 22k miles on the clock and i did this procedure pretty much right after and found this, so no idea when was it cleaned last time (if ever).




Since to finish this job and replace the stator it's simply to follow all the steps from the last the the first, I'm sure you can put all these things back by yourself ;)
Hope this helped, have fun, it's quite simple procedure.
 
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