Dl-650 clutch durability - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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  #1  
Old 02-03-2011, 11:08 PM
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Post Dl-650 clutch durability

For those interested. My DL-650 2006 has 77.000 km (48,000 miles). I did a lot of off-road (20%) which includes several rides that required good work with the clutch.

Having to replace the cable (stretch) and mechanical clutch actuator (wear), I disassembled the clutch for inspection (preventive). The thickness of the new friction plate according to the specifications vary between 2.92mm and 3.08mm. The service limit being 2.62mm.

After 77.000 km, the thickness of the plates varied from 2.90mm and 2.95mm. Assuming that the new plates were manufactured at their maximum thickness is 3.08mm, this means that the wear of the clutch is at 40% (3.08-2.92) / (3.08-2.62). So if the rate of wear continues, the maximum lifetime of the clutch should run at about 190,000 km (118,000 miles) under similar operating conditions as previously experienced, which i believe are harsher than what is usually experienced on average by a Wee-Strom.

Not bad the life of the clutch on a Wee.

However the length of clutch springs are now below the minimum. So a new set of spring and here I go again.
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2011, 01:22 PM
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I replaced the fibre plates & springs in my SV650 @ 102k, miles included a lot of single track 1st & 2nd gear clutch slipping to control speed

replaced cable @ about 90k, and the clutch actuater mechanism @ 120k
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyo View Post
I replaced the fibre plates & springs in my SV650 @ 102k, miles included a lot of single track 1st & 2nd gear clutch slipping to control speed

replaced cable @ about 90k, and the clutch actuater mechanism @ 120k
That is awesome to hear. Just another sign of outstanding quality!
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:53 PM
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Replaced plates and springs @110,000km.

My bike had done a lot of slow (clutch slipping ) single track, a bike with just road use should have a lot less wear.

Given the pain of opening it up to measure everything I just went in and replaced everything as being the easier option.

Checking the parts removed, probably another 20,000kms easily , a couple of the friction plates were just below limit but had plenty of meat left and the total stack height was well above minimum.

Springs, not so good. I think those probably needed to be replaced a while back. While the slip wasn't obvious before I did the clutch the lack of slip powering out of corners afterwards certainly was.

I also replaced the actuator a couple of weeks later - gained about 2cm extra in the bottom adjuster - so those do wear, but it's not really obvious. The only hint that it needed doing was excessive engagement range on the clutch.

Pete
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:40 AM
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What sort of oil have you been runnig?
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Old 05-22-2011, 02:52 AM
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What sort of oil have you been runnig?
Any old thing IMHO modern oils are so good that you'd have to work hard to find an oil that wouldn't be good enough for a DL (old design) engine .

The dealer usually puts Motul in - since it's been out of warantee I take it to them ~ yearly, usually beginning of winter. (Good dealer, good mechanics and a few times they've spotted problems I've missed). Usually gets another change in spring - and I put (non-EC) car oil in then. Hot as hell here summer and the thinner bike specific oils don't last as well.

The springs were definitely below spec. for length when I checked them - so it probably wasn't the oil causing slip.

The clutch will last a hell of a long time for most riders - I'm assuming that the plates were max thickness to start with, but if they weren't there was a lot more plate life left than my estimate.

The springs will be marginal well before the plates go is the main thing to remember. The slip isn't bad, but I really noticed the extra drive powering out of corners with the fresh clutch.

I don't think you'll EVER have to change the flat steel plates - but I got a good deal on a full kit so it was only $10 more to change them all. You are up for a new gasket oil and coolant just opening it up - that's a sizeable fraction of the total cost.

I should also have replaced the thrust bearing. Forgot to buy one, but the old one looked and felt 100% O.K. anyway.

Pete
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteW View Post
I don't think you'll EVER have to change the flat steel plates
only if you rev the crap out of it while slipping and warp them
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:45 PM
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What was the first sign that you had some slippage taking place?
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:38 PM
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What was the first sign that you had some slippage taking place?
When I replaced them and the bike had much more drive out of corners. Wasn't really noticeable before that.

I replaced them because with all the dirt roads the bike had done I decided I needed to open it up and measure it. Someone offered me a kit that they'd got for their bike and never used (got totalled) for a good price, and simply opening it up and changing them was as easy as opening and checking. A set of new fibre plates and springs for these things costs less than a set of front brake pads.

Pete
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:41 PM
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I had to write and tell you all that one thing that pushed me to even look at a Suzuki was that we use them for training bikes here in Indiana. We have some TU250's and also some GZ250's. But the majority of our fleet is GN 125's that were originally purchased way back when. I know the program had them in 1996 when I finally took the class. The thing that impressed me is that I have been teaching for 11 years now and I know of not one clutch that has ever been replaced. Think about the abuse these clutches have taken by the students and they are still going on. Pretty good track record I would say.
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