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General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

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  #31  
Old 12-11-2012, 01:23 PM
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Actually, I already found those latches, and have welded them in.


Mine will be quick detach, and the frames I'm building will have separate mounting points so that the main sections of the frames can also be detached.
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  #32  
Old 12-11-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ReSSurrected View Post
Actually, I already found those latches, and have welded them in.


Mine will be quick detach, and the frames I'm building will have separate mounting points so that the main sections of the frames can also be detached.
very nice job!! i am planning on using the latches that came with the ammo box from factory and just integrating the locks like that one picture shows...

i'm using this rack kit:

Moose Racing Expedition Luggage Rack System V-Strom DL650 2004-2011 - RevZilla

so far very happy with the kit...

where did you get your latches and how did you make sure they were keyed alike?
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  #33  
Old 12-11-2012, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
Thanks for the heads up. Those will work great.

I also found these, they are more of what I was looking for, but a little pricey.

Buyers Junior Size Stainless Steel Flush Paddle Latch ó Fits 2 3/4in. x 3 3/4in. Recess | Truck Box Accessories| Northern Tool + Equipment
yeah i had looked at those, but to make them work seemed like quite a bit of fabrication or something for me, i am doing mine without a welder...just a grinder and cutting disc and normal hand tools...
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  #34  
Old 12-11-2012, 04:02 PM
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Bronco.........I drilled the spotwelds on my ammo can ribs to where they were "almost thru".........then used a prybar tool to bend the ribs up and away. The welds would usually pop loose (with a loud noise) if I drilled them correctly......only messed 2-3 up by accidently drilling all the way thru the can. Alittle JB Weld fixed those boo-boos.........

My lids are "hinged" on one end just by trimming the box top "lip" enough to where it can swing 180 degrees, and bolting the lid's handle-flap-thingie to the can body.
Also, make sure whatever rear rack duffle-bag you might be using does not hang over the tops of the lids preventing them from being opened!! (my waterproof Wolfman Medium fits just right)

Post pics when you are done with yours!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks for the info!

i ended up drilling mine most of the way out too and using a chisel and hammer to pop them loose...i have a couple of boo boos and was planning on using some j-b to clean it up as well

i was going to trim my lip on both ends of the box and lock both of them so i could hinge open either side or still take the lid off completely...after a lot of debate with myself that's what i have decided to go with...

i'm also integrating loops on the lids to tie stuff down to the boxes, and will most likely make sure the dry bag i buy is narrow enough! something i probably would have overlooked!

and don't worry, i will be posting plenty of pictures when they are all done...i've been trying to take pictures along the way so i have progressive pictures...it will be awhile as i work on them in my spare time...but hopefully get them done soon!!
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  #35  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bassbronco_74 View Post
thanks for the info!

i was going to trim my lip on both ends of the box and lock both of them so i could hinge open either side or still take the lid off completely...after a lot of debate with myself that's what i have decided to go with...
i'm also integrating loops on the lids to tie stuff down to the boxes, and will most likely make sure the dry bag i buy is narrow enough! something i probably would have overlooked!
Kool...........
I originally used "Loops" on the lids that I made from cabinet drawer handles found at Lowes for $0.99 each.........but later swapped them out for real "Footman Loops" for a lower profile. I can still feed my ROK straps thru the Footman's even tho it's a tight fit........haven't really had the need yet. But if I decide to mount maybe Wolfman Rollie bags atop the ammo cans, I'll have the loops there.

Good luck on the "build-up".......can't wait to see them!
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  #36  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bassbronco_74 View Post
very nice job!! i am planning on using the latches that came with the ammo box from factory and just integrating the locks like that one picture shows...

i'm using this rack kit:

Moose Racing Expedition Luggage Rack System V-Strom DL650 2004-2011 - RevZilla

so far very happy with the kit...

where did you get your latches and how did you make sure they were keyed alike?
Had I seen that picture before I started grinding spotwelds, I may have done the exact same thing... only thing that may have stopped me was the fact that I just didnít care for the aesthetics of the existing latch. But, that method looks pretty effective/functional. I got the latches at Menardís, and they have the key code printed right on the package so that you can get as many as you want keyed the same right odd the shelf. They were about $8 each.
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  #37  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:53 PM
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Looks fine to me!
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  #38  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bassbronco_74 View Post
very nice job!! i am planning on using the latches that came with the ammo box from factory and just integrating the locks like that one picture shows...
The option I went with was to just bend 1/4" round into a "U" shape then weld it in so it sticks through the center latch handle slot and get a pair of keyed alike padlocks. I left both latches on my cans so I can take the lid all the way off and put the loop at both ends.

I also put 4 loops (1 each corner) on top of each lid for tie-down points. The tie loops used with a 12' cinch strap work great, I've hauled a baseball bat (home to NWPA from the factory in Louisville), a tent and collapsible lawn chair on a 700 mile trip, and a Remington 760 in a hard rifle case to the gunsmith (and back since he wasn't open that day). ... just something else to consider while you're at it with the ammo cans.
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  #39  
Old 12-12-2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ShadowNWPA View Post
The option I went with was to just bend 1/4" round into a "U" shape then weld it in so it sticks through the center latch handle slot and get a pair of keyed alike padlocks. I left both latches on my cans so I can take the lid all the way off and put the loop at both ends.

I also put 4 loops (1 each corner) on top of each lid for tie-down points. The tie loops used with a 12' cinch strap work great, I've hauled a baseball bat (home to NWPA from the factory in Louisville), a tent and collapsible lawn chair on a 700 mile trip, and a Remington 760 in a hard rifle case to the gunsmith (and back since he wasn't open that day). ... just something else to consider while you're at it with the ammo cans.
I already have loops and started installation last night of those. I think they will work good for tie downs.

I've seen loops and eye bolts through the center of the latch for locking the lids on but I had two problems. One is that the pad locks will rattle around while riding.. Two is that when you unlock the lids you'll have loose locks you have to put somewhere and not forget. So for not much more money I just bought the keyed hasp locks and will take a little more installation work and will be cleaner in the end.
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  #40  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:58 PM
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Default older ammo can panniers

Wee ammo can panniers

it took me a while to find this again but I may copy this design.
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