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  #1  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:30 AM
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Default Looking to build my own luggage racks

I got a couple of ammo cans and have been looking at how to mount them. It looks like the 4 mount locations for the stock rack will work and I think some racks connect to the pasenger peg mounts. Are those the only locations to mount too?
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:44 AM
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Even though I've done a lot of searching on this subject, I just ran across this post in an old thread. It looks like there are three mount points on each side and then just tie the two racks together in the back.


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Originally Posted by Colorado CJ View Post
Built the racks myself and used ammo cans. About $60.00 total. Can hold ALOT of gear:







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Old 11-21-2012, 08:51 AM
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yup...that's pretty much it for mount locations...

you've got the two mount points you can use from the factory rear rack, then tie it in forward to the passenger pegs, then you just make a connection bar that goes behind the tire to solidify the system...

good luck and post and take lots of pictures!!
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:30 AM
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About all the rack manufacturers use similar mounting points. You are good in using the top rack mounts, the forward one can be a flat bar that goes under the passenger hand hold mount, the rear can be done the same but I recommend something that goes all the way across to the other side to tie the system together. These two mount will be the first you want to fabricate. Get your height and angle correct for the cans/bags here first. Then build from the passenger footpeg ( there are already very handy holes there to bolt into) to the lower front of your mounts. This needs to be sturdy as it can carry a lot of load because of it mounting to the footpeg mount. Last is fabrication of a mount across the back. This you can use your imagination with. Ideal time to make a mount for an auxilliary light or even a place to bolt a small Pelican case to for tools/small can of chain lube. I find round tubing easy to work with as it can be bent nicer for most home shop builders. A good heavy wall tube is actually easier to work with, much easier to bend ( not as bad to kink ) and easier to weld to. Doesn't have to be too large in diameter, just make sure the wall thickness is enough to make it stiff enough when tied together.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:20 AM
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Thanks for the tips, I have some DOM tubing that might work good for this.

What size tubing are crash bars usually? I'd like to try an fab some of them up as well.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:24 AM
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1" OD is typical for crash bars.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:38 PM
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I made racks for a friend's KLR out of 1" square and it works great 3 years later.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
Thanks for the tips, I have some DOM tubing that might work good for this.

What size tubing are crash bars usually? I'd like to try an fab some of them up as well.
I made my own saddlebag racks out of 1/2" conduit $4.00 a 10 foot stick. checkout reply #3

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php....html#msg80904

as stated crash bars are bigger
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Last edited by BumbleBee; 11-21-2012 at 11:04 PM. Reason: wrong link
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:21 PM
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Hey Tom,
Did you bend the conduit with a conduit bender or something with a smaller radius?
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:18 PM
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Default hydro tube bender

H8,

borrowed a buddy's hydro tube bender with 3/4" die and a 3" radius. not sure a regular conduit bender would work. the only issue I have with the conduit is getting paint to stick to them good, the galvanize is probably the issue . I think I will look into some powder coating this winter during my maintenance schedule. they seem to be plenty strong, but not a vstrom roll bar.
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