I'm working on getting my dl650k7 ready for an Alaska trip next August. I've been reading all I can and learning a lot from everyone on this forum, so thank you. I'm now at the point of working on wiring the bike for powering electrical items. I currently have no wiring added, so I'm starting with a blank slate. Please critique my plan and let me know your thoughts.

I want to power:
1. gerbing jacket liner and gerbing gloves (possible socks if you guys think that's necessary)
2. GPS
3. Iphone

I was thinking of going with the Eastern Beaver 3-circuit solution. I thought I'd order the unit with 1 non-switched circuit for the gps, and with 2 switched circuits for the heated gear and iphone. I'd like to get your comments on:

1. Are there any other electrical items I should consider besides 1,2,and 3 above?
2. Is the 3CS the best solution for my plan?
3. Is the 3CS able to carry the heated jacket,gloves,and socks at the same time without overload?

Any other comments from folks with experience on this would be appreciated.

My first instinct is that the "unswitched" gps circuit might be asking for trouble! I don't trust an unswitched circuit to not run the battery down on a trip like you are planning. If you need the gps when the engine is not running, can it be used via an internal battery? There will be others here with good input I am sure.

I would add a voltmeter before adding any single accessory! This will actually work well with the Eastern Beaver system as the voltage drop is minimal.

Your heated gear doesn't actually draw a lot of power and the EB stuff will work well with it.

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Check out the FZ-1 Fused block. It will run 6 circuits, and all can be switched or not. Depending on which slot you put the fuse. It has an internal relay. American made.

The 3 should work out fine but you will be tapped out at that point if you decide on other additions. (although you could go directly to the battery or switch a low watt item to the heated grip acc. plug behind the radiator). I used the EB PC8's on both our Stroms as I keep finding electrical stuff to add. I also move my Garmin 550 from between all our different bikes and have found that I like the unswitched better as I don't have to remember to keep it on when gassing up and I always take the unit off when leaving the bike anyway. We also have electrified tank bags from twisted throttle that work well for us on long trips. We can keep multiple phones, ipods and communication devices (when not in use) charging while we ride. The bag also has a waterproof cover and pops right off when removal is necessary. I have found that all the above works for us but you should recieve many other suggestions here that you can sift through to find what best suits your needs

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'09 VEE
'07 SE UC
'02 CR 250

I just wired up a 12V cigarette lighter-style socket directly to the battery for the GPS -- it's right in front of you so it's impossible to forget to turn off or take off. Switched circuits certainly for the rest. I have a headlight cut-out switch to kill one bulb, freeing up 55W for heated vest and grips -- just to be safe.

For AK in August, though, I'd be more concerned with having good rain gear.

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2007 DL650
"Who the hell wants to hear actors talk?" -- Harry M. Warner, Warner Brothers, 1927

I know a few people run full gerling gear with no problems, but when I run my jacket liner and gloves (at full they pull 104watts) I run into problems sitting at a red light (I drop below 12v), at speed I am fine. This is without charging my iphone or using my two outlet plugs.
One solution I might try is wire the heated gear off of a relay which is connected to the brake lights; so when the brake is pushed the relay cuts off power to the heated gear. This way you can control the gear by the brake. I think this is a better option than cutting off one headlight because if you ride at night you want all the light you can get for safety.
I would run an Eastern Beaver PC-8, it gives you 6 switched and 2 unswitched options.
Being you are running heated gear a voltmeter is a must have, you don't want your battery dying while you are in the middle of nowhere. So knowing your bikes output is helpful.
Two "power saving" options would be install VVME HID conversion kit and LED brake lights. That does help when you are running heated gear alos the HID are 3x brighter (4300K color) at only 35watts each and the LEDs for brake lights also are brighter while pulling less power. With my jacket on about half way and gloves on full my volts don't drop below 13.4 and that’s with blinkers on and brake lights on.

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2011 SUZUKI DL650 V-Strom ABS/Pearl Mirage White

Farkles: Aprilia Tuono mirrors / Pat Walsh Design Super Brace / DL1000 Seat / Givi engine guards / Madstad Bkt w/ OEM or Givi Shield / PL532 & E41nn / EB PC-8 - 2x power outlets - Datel Voltmeter - Stebel Horn with PWD setup - Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID - 1157 LED Brake lights

Shiro Nakama Hachi

Leave with a brandy New 14x battery
Add some kind of volt monitoring I have signal direct

If you switch to a single HID you free up like 3 amps, LED tails which are poor will get you 1 1/2 more.

Some kind of heated gear controller will reduce power

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2013 Northeast V-Strom Rally!

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS

8/2/2013

I just bought 3 Digital volt meters off ebay ( I have 3 Suzuki's) they are about 3"x1",waterproof and were $8.00 each with free shipping..


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1982 GS850..BLACK SUNSHINE,the tripod
2007 DL996AR..BRUTUS
Ah screw it,I'm goin ridin !!!!!!!!

Do you need all that heated gear for a trip to Alaska in August? The mean temperature in Talkeetna, AK (near Mt. McKinnley) is 55.6 degrees. The northern most city (Barrow) has a mean temp of 31 degrees in August, but you're probably not going that far north.

Vinny

The LED brake lights I've seen that fit into the regular sockets are too weak for me. Their electrical savings is very minor.

Wear a down or other very warm jacket liner over your electric vest or jacket liner. You'll be warm.

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2007 DL650A Whee! (SV cam transplant)

Manage the unavoidable.
Avoid the unmanageable.