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  #11  
Old 11-08-2012, 10:10 AM
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I would suggest a fuse block.
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Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2012, 10:33 AM
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My left bar controls look similar to greywolf's.


The knob to the right of the cruise control switch is for the heated grips controller. The bat switch above the cruise control switch is a momentary switch that cancels the cruise when set.


I have a triple controller for my heated gear. It attaches to the gas tank magnetically.


It plugs into a Powerlet socket:



Ron
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  #13  
Old 11-08-2012, 11:04 AM
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Nice setup Ranger Ron. Is the bat handled toggle insurance against the clutch, brake and cc off button all failing to kill the cruise control? Even the increase in rpms from dropping the bike would do that as well as the before mentioned moves, not that there's anything wrong with overkill.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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  #14  
Old 11-08-2012, 11:31 AM
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Thanks.

It's a spring loaded momentary switch. I use it instead of having to tap the brakes in order to disengage the cruise. Just a quick nudge with the thumb does the trick.

Ron
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  #15  
Old 11-08-2012, 04:06 PM
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I just put the dual controller in my jacket pocket right now, (Less wires running all over the place.) Thinking of mounting it to the left side of my seat. Thinking making some kind of craddle to set the controller in that could be attached to the left screw holding the brace that the gas tank is on or something, then after riding the controller would just slide out and I can walk away. (still in the planning stages)
I have the gerling liner and gloves (total 104w) and at a light I will fall below 12v with everything on high. The best solution came from Grey Wolf [of course =-)]
"I have an SPDT relay activated by the brake lights. When the brakes are on, the normally closed contacts on the relay open and the power to my dual heat controller is cut off. I can choose whether to save power or continue to heat while idling by applying the brake or not."
Looking to try this at some point soon. I am running HID and LED brake lights. At speed I have no problems runing at high and I would rather not fittle with the controller so this idea sounds great.

Also everything runs off of a PC-8 fuse block.
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  #16  
Old 11-08-2012, 06:04 PM
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I have the Gerbings jacket liner and gloves. This is how I do it.
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:30 AM
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I'm setting my permanent mounting kit up this weekend on my Glee. I'll post some pictures after everything's installed. For now, I'm planning on drilling into the horizontal plastic just down and to the left of the RPM Gauge for the dual controllers. I was planning on going to a fuse box i just purchased but it's a 60 amp box with 6 connections and 30 of that would be taken up by my heated gear (plus the terminal connections are way too big for the box) so I'll be going directly to the battery terminal with the controller. As for the jacket and glove plug-ins, I'm still working on a crafty way to mount a female connector close to the rider so i can just plug in and go.
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:46 AM
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Having had a connector mounted in the Wee, I am happier with a pigtail on the Glee. It is under the seat when not in use and let out when needed. A soldering iron applied to the plastic ridge under the seat just behind the tank provides clearance and widens the plastic so it won't damage the pigtail. Walking away from the bike or being separated if the bike goes down will cause the connectors to separate in line. A rigid mount may cause damage if the suit cord is pulled at an angle.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2013, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Having had a connector mounted in the Wee, I am happier with a pigtail on the Glee. It is under the seat when not in use and let out when needed. A soldering iron applied to the plastic ridge under the seat just behind the tank provides clearance and widens the plastic so it won't damage the pigtail. Walking away from the bike or being separated if the bike goes down will cause the connectors to separate in line. A rigid mount may cause damage if the suit cord is pulled at an angle.
I would use a short extension cord with a rigid mount for this reason. I've seen 1-ft extensions which gives you the benefit of it separating in-line. Also a little more flexibility on location for a rigid mount.
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  #20  
Old 09-13-2013, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vvx View Post
I would use a short extension cord with a rigid mount for this reason. I've seen 1-ft extensions which gives you the benefit of it separating in-line. Also a little more flexibility on location for a rigid mount.
That's what I did on the Wee. One day I looked at it and said to myself, "Why did you put in two connectors when one would have worked fine?"
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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