chain maintenance for first timers? - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

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post #11 of 19 Old 11-07-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Tom View Post
You only need to lube the area where the side plates touch each other

Tom, what do you mean here? Thanks.

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post #12 of 19 Old 11-07-2012, 03:55 PM
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I went to a MC race this summer. While standing at one of the corners at the track I was surprised at how loose the chains were.......TD

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post #13 of 19 Old 11-07-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NovaStrom View Post
Tom, what do you mean here? Thanks.
From what I have seen cleaning the chain is a waste of time and money. Any cleaning that could actually do anything useful has the strong likelihood of damaging the O-rings. If you apply a lube (in my case HHS2000) the carrier for the lube can take away most dirt and stuff between the links. Cleaning solutions simply aren't needed and mechanical things like rushes can harm the o-rings.

On the other hand the chain needs lune. Chains that are in oil baths tend to last nearly forever. Riders that use automatic chain oilers tend to get extremely long life from their chains. It stands to reason that if you lube the chain often it will last longer. My experience is that living after every tank of gas and after every ride in the rain helps my chain last way longer than the advice that most people will give you.

As far as the actual lubing:

There are only two areas that lube is needed on a modern chain. The areas are where the side plates touch each is the main one. I don't have a quick link to a picture but if you looked at the chain from behind you see the side plates that connect the chain together. The area where they touch needs to be lubed. As well the area where the inner side plate touches the roller needs to be lubed as well. If you aim lube at the side plates (say from behind) then some lube will go onto the area where the roller touches the inner plate.


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post #14 of 19 Old 11-07-2012, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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  • ST1793-ST1793-46 BLK Supersprox STEALTH Tri-Metal 520 Rear Sprocket - SUZUKI -REAR SPROCKET SIZE: 46 - Limited Edition BLACK 1 $69.95 $69.95
  • D28402 Superlite 520 Chromoly Steel Drilled Steel Front Race Sprocket -FRONT SPROCKET SIZE: 17 1 $31.95 $31.95
  • D520ZVMXG D.I.D. 520ZVMX Super Street Series 1200cc Rated Gold X'ring Chain -CHAIN LENGTH: 120 Links ($159.00) 1 $159.00 $159.00

did I do wrong? will this adversely affect my riding to much? ( mostly flat where I live ). I know I will have to cut this chain ( think I need to remove 3 links )

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[URL=""]Solobox Paniers[/URL]
17/46 520 size [URL=""]chain[/URL], [URL=""]Front[/URL] and [URL=""]rear[/URL] Sprockets
[URL=""]Rigid Industries 6" E-series light bar[/URL]
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post #15 of 19 Old 11-09-2012, 12:38 AM
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525 chain is the correct size -- is there some reason you'd switch to 520?

Some Vee riders switch to 530 chain, but this is not necessary on the Wee.

I have no knowledge regarding a 520 chain conversion on a Wee, so I'll let the Wee owners take that question.

If it were me, I'd just order the correct stuff from Blair and be done with it -- you very likely can't beat this price for this quality:

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post #16 of 19 Old 11-09-2012, 03:57 AM
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I'll throw in my opinion on chains/sprockets as I am very persnickety about this maintenance item. Since our chains are O-rings/X-rings, lubing them are relegated to keeping the rings wet and free from dirt and sand. Some of the lubes I've used in the past were very tacky and attracted dirt/sand even though the label claimed ...'does not attract dirt'. Hey, if it's sticky/tacky, it attracts dirt!! On the advice of PTRider(I think), I began using the DuPont Chain Saver which is a thin wax based Teflon lube that I apply using a small brush. The brush is used to minimize waste and mess. Also, chain alignment is very important to me so I bought a Profi-D Cat laser alignment tool for about $85. The alignment marks on the swingarm are not even close to being accurate. If that price is too high, consider the tool from Motion Pro. It's relatively cheap and will get your alignment pretty close. Good call on dabbing a little anti-seize on the axle nut as it is one fastener that will be loosened/tightened over and over again. Use a Q-tip to apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and use the lesser torque as mentioned by the above poster. When you choose your chain replacement brand, you should consider replacing the chain and sprockets as a set to reduce accelerated wear of the new chain. Certain high-end D.I.D chains require their own riveting tool vs a generic riveting tool. I'd decide which chain brand I want to go with and stick with that particular chain and then buy their tool and you won't have to have to consider buying multiple tools. These things are not cheap. I went with RK chain&tool and Sunstar sprockets. There are great quality chain/sprockets from Renthal, D.I.D, RK, and others.

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post #17 of 19 Old 11-09-2012, 02:21 PM
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This pic is from EK chain, one of several good manufacturers. It shows that the seal holds in lube between the pin and bushing, but does not provide lube between the bushing and the roller. We have to lube that part.

Expect the 520 chain to have a shorter life than the original 525 chain. The difference is the width of the chain. The wider chain spreads the load over more surface area so the load per unit of area is reduced and thus the wear is less. On the Vee a 530 chain gives longer life for the same reason. The narrower chain is slightly lighter for very slightly better performance, costs less, and dies sooner.

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post #18 of 19 Old 11-09-2012, 08:31 PM
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Thanks for the diagrams!!

I cannot believe how many folks here *still* do not know where the lube needs to be applied. The diagrams should say it all.

The sideplates should never-ever touch each other because the O/X rings prevent them from touching. Lube on the O/X rings may be beneficial in preventing dryout. The O/X rings keep the factory lube on the PINS..... not the ROLLERS.

Consequently - The ONLY place we need to apply lube is UNDER THE ROLLERS. The best way to force the lube into this location is to spray ON THE REAR SPROCKET and allow the lube to run down to the chain.... thus entering precisely where it needs to go under the rollers.

The only reason I apply lube to the side of my chain is to prevent rust.

Last edited by BruceP; 11-10-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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post #19 of 19 Old 11-13-2012, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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well I will use the 520 chain for now since I have it and HAVE to replace the one I have. I will also get a feel for if I have the right ratio. when next I change out I will go back to a 525 if I find the wear to much.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]The first 40 years of childhood are the hardest.

DL650A L1 "Sandy"
[URL=""]Solobox Paniers[/URL]
17/46 520 size [URL=""]chain[/URL], [URL=""]Front[/URL] and [URL=""]rear[/URL] Sprockets
[URL=""]Rigid Industries 6" E-series light bar[/URL]
[URL=""]3m Military Green Wrap[/URL] on order
[URL=""]Oil Filter Adapter[/URL] [URL=""]HERE'S why[/URL]

Last edited by jlegere; 11-13-2012 at 08:27 PM.
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